I-Biograge
U-Elsa Skia Paderelli - inganekwane yezwe eliphakeme. Ngaziwa kakhulu kune-coco Chanel ngengubo yakhe encane emnyama, kepha ngenani lokusungula okusele ngemuva kwama-deshen-masters anamagama aphezulu. Izithelo zobungani bakhe nokubambisana nePablo Picasso neSalvador zathunyelwa ngezinto ezilungele ukuhlaziya njengemisebenzi yobuciko, hhayi izinto zekhabethe. UMarlene Diedrich no-Catherine Hepburn baveze inhlonipho yokugqoka eSkiaParelli. Ungowokuqala okwazile ukubhakamfashini "ngesiphambano" ngokugqamile kanye ne-surrealism.Ubuntwana nentsha
Umqambi kanye nomqambi wemfashini wazalwa eRoma ekwindla ka-1890. Ababelethi babiza intombazane u-Elza Louise Maria. Wayenenhlanhla enkulu nge-pedigree: skiaparelli - isibongo esidumile se-aristocracy e-Italy.
Ubaba Elza ungusosayensi ovelele, i-dean ye-University of Roma, iConnoisseur yempucuko yamaSulumane kanye ne-Epoch yeNkathi Ephakathi. Umalume - isazi sezinkanyezi esidumile esatshela umhlaba mayelana nokuba khona kweziteshi zeMartian. Umalume wesibili ungumbhali waseGibhithe, owathola isisulu somfazi wokuqala kaRamses II - indlovukazi uNefertari.
U-Elsa SkiaParelli akazange abe nethuba lokukhula intombazane ejwayelekile. Kusukela ebuntwaneni, yayizungezwe abantu abanethalente, ngolwazi lwe-encyclopedic. Enganebeni yokuqala, wayithanda umlando, amasiko nemicikilisho yenkolo yabantu basendulo. Ngaphansi komqondo walolu lwazi, iqoqo lamavesi athi "Aretus" abhale.
Okuqukethwe nencazelo yalezi zindatshana zendodakazi yathusa abazali bazo. Ukunqamula imicabango emisha e-Elsa, intombazane yanqunywa esikoleni saseSwitzerland boarding esikoleni sezindela. Ephendula imithetho eqinile, uSkia Paredelli wamemezela isiteleka sendlala. Kwakufanele ngithathe ikhaya lakhe.
Ngemuva kokuthola iziqu esikoleni, i-Aristocrat yaya eyunivesithi, ibhendiswa nguYise, lapho aqala khona ukufundwa kwefilosofi. Shiya iRoma bese uqhubekela eLondon Elza waphoqa ukuthi isifiso sabazali simshade ngendoda engathandwa.
ENgilandi, skiaparedeli yahlala noNanny endlini yezwe.
Impilo yomuntu siqu
Akukwaziwa ukuthi i-biography yomthathoshi ibizokwakheka kanjani, uma iSkiaperelli engazange iphinde yasinda inani lama-drams empilweni yomuntu siqu ye-skiaparelli. Ebusheni bakhe, wahehwa yinkohliso enethalente elibizwa nge-Wilhelm de Kerlor, eyabonakala inengqondo futhi ehlelekile kwikholishi ye-theosophy. Bamemezele ukuzibandakanya ngosuku lwesibili ngemuva komngane.Abalingani baphila ngemali yomndeni kaSkia Paredelli. Ngo-1915, uKerlow waxoshwa eBrithani ukuze atshele inhlanhla. Lo mbhangqwana udlulele emazweni ahlukene, kanti ngawo-1920s Elsa akazange abelethe indodakazi kaGogo, eyaphakanyiswa yedwa: Ngemuva kweminyaka eyi-8, umyeni wakhe wabulawa eMexico.
Olunye uthando - umculi we-opera uMario Laurenti - waqeda inhlekelele: UMario wafa ngokungazelelwe.
I-Couturier yabhala ngaye encwadini ethi "Ukuphila Kwami Okushaqisayo", lapho abalandeli bobuciko bakhe bathola amaqiniso amaningi athakazelisayo mayelana nentandokazi.
Inkambo
Intshisekelo ekwakhiweni kwezingubo ezivela ku-Elsa yavuka ngokungazelelwe. Indawo lapho kuzalwa khona uthando lwemfashini, uParis waba. Ukusebenza umhlahlandlela, owesifazane othukuthele waphawula ukuthi izivakashi azinandaba nokuheha amadolobha, kepha izitolo zemfashini. Ngokushesha yena, ngokwakhe wacabanga ngokwakha izinto ezikhethekile.
I-Azam Modeling Italian yafunda ensimini yenkondlo. Inguquko ye-trendy "ngaphambili" yaphosa ama-corsets angakhululeki nezingubo ezinde kakhulu ezaphonswa amahhashi. Kamuva, u-Elsa wabiza uModi ophanayo, umngane obizayo.
Idolobhana - laba ngumlingani wokuqala weKuturier yokuqala. Umjuluko we-arningship wakhe u-Elsa waphawula ngakolunye. Njengoba sebejwayele ubuciko, kanye naye, bathuthuka amamodeli okuqala ama-sweatshi kanye nezingubo ezihlanganisiwe ngokuphrinta.
Imikhiqizo yaba khona ngokushesha ama-hits ama-fashionistas aseFrance. Amaphethini ngendlela yama-lobster, izinhliziyo ezihlanganisiwe, ama-tatioror amatilosi futhi namathambo ashaqekile futhi akhangwa ngasikhathi sinye. Kamuva i-skiaparelli ibize indlovukazi yokuphrinta. Inganekwane yakhe yabeletha imidwebo ngesithombe samaphephandaba, i-lobster, iklabishi kanye nama-motifs ase-Afrika.
Ukuncoma ukuqoqwa kwe-knitting, umklami wathatha ama-swisheits, izingubo zezemidlalo kanye nama-pajama. Kwethulwa ukuthandwa, kwathola i-oda kusuka enkampanini "Ostrich" kuma-Trainineits. Usebenze kubo nomphakathi wase-Armenia wase-Argemian. Ngenxa yalokho, ama-armonia avula ifektri ye-Kywewear, kanye ne-Italian - indlu yemfashini eRyu de la La-Per, obize iSkiap (isidlaliso Elsa phakathi kwabangane).
Ngo-1928, umklami wemfashini wakhipha amakha okuqala, ebabiza ngokuthi uS. Ezokwenziwa, izithako (amakha) asetshenziswa ngamagama encwadini "C". Kwabe sekuphuma amakha kaSoucis, kwavela usawoti. I-Plfume iyashaqisa! U-Elsa ubekwe ebhodleleni ngesimo sesibalo sowesifazane. Kamuva, uJean-Paul Gauthier waboleka umbono.
Ngawo-1930s Skiap Salon waba isikhungo sezemfashini saseParisian, lapho osaziwayo abambeka khona. Ukwazi abaculi uSalvador Dali noJean Cokto, bakhula baba ubungani kanye nokubambisana, baphakamise i-brand skiaparelli eya ezingeni elisha. Izingubo kanye neManto manje zihlobisa imidwebo yezindaba zokupenda.
Ubuciko obuhlangene noDali baveze izingubo zemfashini ye-lobster kanye nezingubo zokugqoka, izicathulo nezigqoko nezigqoko ezine- "mutton chutter", amasudi-esifubeni "kanye ne-pudraders ngendlela yediski yocingo.
Imihlobiso kanye nezesekeli Couture zinake kakhulu. Amasongo enziwe ngensimbi noboya, izinkinobho ngesimo sezibani, amakhethini namathamborini, imigexo esobala enezithombe zamaphela nezimbungulu zamangala futhi zashaqeka.
Umsebenzi kaSkiap waphenduka ama-hits, kepha akuzona bonke onogada bemfashini ababenesibindi sokugqoka bona. Isibonelo, ukugqoka "izinyembezi" ngokuphrinta kombhali kwanikezwa izikhumba zezilwane ezilingiswayo, zaphenduka ngaphakathi.
U-Elsa Skia Paredelli Okokuqala ozakwabo basebenzise umbani ezingutsheni njengento yokuhlobisa. Omunye wabadali uphuthume-i-port adale izinto hhayi kuphela kumamafashini acebile, kodwa futhi namakhasimende angavikelekile, afaka usilika obizayo noboya obubizayo ngezicubu zokwenziwa. Owokuqala waqala ukunika amagama amaqoqo, aguqule isethulo embukisweni, afana nezindlela zamanje ze-mod.
ISkip - iphayona lemboni, eliheha ama-silhouette kuphela, kodwa futhi nangekhwalithi yendwangu. Igxolo lesihlahla, iphepha elinamathelisiwe, i-viscose ehlanganisiwe bese ubhoboza ngokuphrinta okuvuthayo - ngakho-ke wabheka ukuthi uyazi. I-Couturier yaqhamuka "nge-pink eshaqisayo" - umbala lapho ama-pink diamempiond daisy comples aphefumulelwe khona.
Ukwehla kwe-Skia Paredelli House kwehle ku-Post-War 1950s. Iqoqo lokugcina lashicilelwa ngo-1953. Indlu ivaliwe ngo-1954, lapho ebuyela ezimbangi zebhizinisi likaCo Coco Chanel.
Ngo-2007, uhlobo lohlobo luthole i-compatriot skiap diego della Valle. Ngo-2014, ama-lacraua angamaKristu ekhumbula uMklami Omkhulu wethula iqoqo lakhe.
Ukushona
U-Elsa SkiaParelli ushone emashumini amabili eminyaka ngemuva kokukhishwa kweqoqo lokugcina eneminyaka engama-83. Okudala ukufa akwaziwa.
INdlovukazi ye-Phrinta nendodakazi ethi "Eshaqisayo Pink" kanye nabazukulu ababili bangcwatshwa egqoke izingubo zesilika zombala ofanayo. Ngakho wafundisa i-couturier.
Ngo-2014, uZhivani, ngosizo lomzukulu ka-Skiap Marisi washicilela incwadi ethi "I-albhamu yomuntu siqu Elzy Skiaparelli", lapho kuvela khona izinto zomndeni kagogo odumile.