Elsa Skiaparelli - chithunzi, mbiri, moyo waumwini, kuvala, zovala

Anonim

Chiphunzitso

Elsa Skiaparelli - nthano ya dziko lapansi la mafashoni. Osadziwa kwenikweni kuposa kavalidwe kakang'ono ka Hight wakuda, koma ndi kuchuluka kwa zopangira zomwe zatsalira kwa aszen-ambuye ndi mayina akulu. Zipatso za ubwenzi wake ndi mgwirizano ndi Pablo Picasso ndi Salvador zidaperekedwa ndi zinthu zomwe zimayenera kuwunika ngati ntchito zaluso, osati zinthu za zovala. Marlene Dietrich ndi Katherine Hepburn adatsimikizira ulemu kuti avale ku Skiaparelli. Ndiye woyamba kubadwa bwino kwambiri "mokondwa" ndi sulim.

Ubwana ndi Unyamata

Wopanga ndipo wopanga mafashoni adabadwira ku Roma kumapeto kwa 1890. Makolo adatcha mtsikanayo Eza Louise. Iye anali ndi mwayi wokhala ndi pedigree: Skiaparelli - dzina lodziwika bwino ku Italy.

Abambo Elza ndi wasayansi wotchuka, Dean wa University of Roma, wolumikizana wachitukuko wachisilamu ndi nthawi ya middle azaka zapakati. Amalume - woganiza bwino wotchuka yemwe adauza dziko lapansi za kukhalapo kwa anthu a Martian. Wachiwiriyo ndi wa ku Eologist, yemwe adapeza wozunzidwayo wa ku Ramses II - Mfumukazi yanfartari.

Elsa skiaparelli sanakhale ndi mwayi wokulitsa mtsikana wamba. Kuyambira ndili mwana, anali atazunguliridwa ndi anthu aluso, ndi luso la encyclopedic. Kuyambira ndili mwana, adazindikira mbiriyakale, chikhalidwe ndi miyambo yachipembedzo ya anthu akale. Pankhani ya izi, adtus "a" Aretus "analemba.

Zomwe zili ndi nkhani za mwanayo zimakwiyitsa makolo awo. Kuchepetsa malingaliro mwachangu Elsa, mtsikanayo adatsimikizika kusukulu ya ku Swiss Boarch ku nyumba ya amonke. Poyankha malamulo okhwima, a Skiaparelli adalengeza kuti amenye. Ndidayenera kunyamula nyumba yake.

Atamaliza sukulu, artoprat anapita ku yunivesite, wotsogozedwa ndi bambowo, komwe anaphunzira kuphunzira zanzeru. Sikani rome ndikusamukira ku London Elza adakakamiza chikhumbo cha makolo kuti akwatire chifukwa cha munthu wosakondedwa.

Ku England, Skiaparelli adakhazikitsa nanny kunyumba ya dziko.

Moyo Wanu

Sizikudziwika kuti mbiri ya anthu omwe afakitale ikadapanga, ngati Eliaparelli sanapulumuke ndi ma diste iliyonse m'moyo wa Skiaparelli. Ali mwana, anachita chidwi ndi chinyengo chaluso chotchedwa Wilhelm de kerlor, yemwe anali wowoneka bwino komanso wophunzitsidwa bwino. Adalengeza za chibwenzi tsiku lachiwiri pambuyo pa ophunzira.

Banja limakhala pazabanja la banja la Eliaparelli. Mu 1915, kerlow ochotsedwa ku Britain kuti anene zopindulitsa. Awiriwo kudutsa m'maiko osiyanasiyana, pomwe mu 1920s Elsa sanabadwe kwa mwana wamkazi wa Gogo, omwe adayambitsidwa yekha: zaka 8, mwamuna wake adaphedwa ku Mexico.

Chikondi china - Operan Staunrio Laureni - inatha tsoka: Mario adamwalira mosayembekezeka.

Coutourier adalemba za iye yekha m'buku la "moyo wanga wodabwitsa", komwe mafani a zolengedwa zake adapeza mfundo zambiri zosangalatsa pazomwe mumakonda.

Nchito

Chidwi cha kapangidwe ka zovala kuchokera kwa Elsa adadzuka mosayembekezereka. Malo omwe chikondi cha mafashoni adabadwa, Paris zidayamba. Kugwira Ntchito Yotsogolera, mayi wokalamba adazindikira kuti alendo alendo alibe chidwi ndi zokopa mzinda, koma malo ogulitsa mafashoni. Posakhalitsa adaganiza za kupanga zinthu zabwino.

Azam Stealing Italiya adaphunzira kuchokera ku gawo la Uire. Kutembenukira kwa otembenuka mtima kwa otembenuka mtima "kutsogolo" kunamveka bwino zipatso ndi madiresi otalikirana omwe amakakamizidwa ndi akavalo. Pambuyo pake, Elsa anaitanidwa kuti apatse nthumwi yowolowa manja, mzanga wokwera mtengo.

Tawuni yaku Armenia inakhala mnzake woyamba woyamba. Thukuta la ALSA YOLEMBEDWA ESA linadziwitsa mnzake. Popeza amadziwa za chojambulajambula, limodzi ndi iye, ndikupanga mitundu yoyamba yotsetserera ndi madiresi oluka ndi kusindikiza.

Zogulitsa nthawi yomweyo zidakhala kugunda kwa mafashoni achi French. Mawonekedwe a mawonekedwe a nkhanu, mitima yoboola, mitima ya woyendetsa sitimayo komanso mafupa adadzidzimuka ndikukopeka nthawi yomweyo. Pambuyo pake skiaparelli otchedwa mfumukazi ya kusindikiza. Malingaliro ake adabereka zojambula ndi chithunzi cha zojambula za nyuzipepala, lobster, kabichi ndi ma Pangano a Africa.

Povomereza zomwe zikugwirizana, wopanga adatenga zisazizo, zovala zamasewera ndi majamas. Kuyambitsa Kutchuka, kunalandira dongosolo kuchokera ku kampani "nthiwatiwa" pamayendedwe. Anawagwira ntchito ndi gulu la Armeniya la Paris. Zotsatira zake, a ku Armenian adatsegula fakitale ya Knithwear, ndi Italy - nyumba ya mafashoni pa Ryu De la-per, yemwe posakhalitsa adatchula Elsap (Elsame Elsap pakati pa abwenzi).

Mu 1928th, Wopanga mafashoni adatulutsa zonunkhira zoyambirira, ndikuwayimbira S. Zopanga, zosakaniza (zonunkhira) zidagwiritsidwa ntchito ndi zilembo "C". Kenako armas a soucis, satit ndi schiap adatuluka. Zodekha! Elsa anaikidwa mu botolo mu chithunzi cha munthu wamkazi. Pambuyo pake, a Jean-Paul Gauthier adabwereka lingaliro.

Mu 1930s skiap salon idakhala likulu la mafashoni parouris, komwe otchuka amavala. Onetsetsa kuti saliva a Salvador Dali ndi Jean Cork, adakula kukhala ubale ndi mgwirizano, adakweza Brand Skiaparelli ku mulingo watsopano. Madiresi ndi manto adakongoletsa zojambulajambula.

CRAIL CRAIL NDI DALI yomwe adalemba madiresi azomwe amavala ndi mafupa, nsapato ndi zipewa ndi zipewa ndi "matumba - chifuwa" ndi ma pudraders mufoni.

Zokongoletsera ndi zokongoletsera zowonjezera zidakhudzidwa kwambiri. Zibangili zopangidwa ndi chitsulo ndi ubweya, mabatani mu mawonekedwe a zoyikapo nyali, ma crickets ndi ma tamboristines, makosi owonekera ndi zithunzi za majeres ndi zodabwitsidwa.

Ntchito ya Skiap idasanduka nthawi yomweyo, koma osati alonda onse a promove anali olimba mtima kuti avale. Mwachitsanzo, mavalidwe "misozi" yosindikiza kuti akusindikiza adapatsidwa zikopa za nyama, zokhala kunja.

Elsa skiaparelli oyamba omwe amagwiritsa ntchito magetsi pa zovala monga chinthu chokongoletsera. Chimodzi mwa omwe adalenga, doko linapanga zinthu osati za mafakitale olemera, komanso kwa makasitomala obisika, kusinthanitsa silika wokwera komanso ubweya waminofu. Woyamba anayamba kupereka mayina kuti azisonkhana, kutembenuza ulaliki pachiwonetsero, chofanana ndi mitundu yazomwe ilipo.

Skiap - mpainiya wa mafakitalewo, zomwe zimakondweretsa osati za ma valouettes okha, komanso pa mtundu wa nsalu. Makungwa amtengo, pepala lokhota, ma vickose okutidwa ndi kusindikizidwa koyaka - kotero anamuyang'ana. COuuturier adabwera ndi "pinki yogwedezeka" - mtundu womwe pick daisy amacheza nawo.

Nyumba ya Eliaparelli imagwa idagwa mpaka nkhondo 1950s. Zosunga zomaliza zidafalitsidwa mu 1953. Nyumbayo idatseka mu 1954, atabwerera ku bizinesi ya Chumal Canel.

Mu 2007, mtunduwo udapeza ma compatriot Skiap Diego Vlla. Mu 2014, a LaCraua a LaCraua akukumbukira yekha wopanga yemwe adapereka.

Imfa

Elsa Skiaparelli anamwalira zaka makumi awiri atamasulidwa kwa okambirana omaliza ali ndi zaka 83. Zomwe zidapangitsa kuti imfa sikudziwika.

Mfumukazi ya mfumukazi ndi "mwana wamkazi wodabwitsa wa pinki, ndipo adzukulu awiri apinki ndi adzukulu awiri adayikidwa m'manda mu zovala za silika. Chifukwa chake amaphunzitsa Consurier.

Mu 2014, Zhivani, mothandizidwa ndi adzukulu Skiap Mariap Mariapap amafalitsa buku la "Albim Alzz Skiaparelli", pomwe zithunzi zowerengedwa kuchokera pabanja zosungidwa zakale za agogo otchuka.

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