Yoji yamato - chithunzi, mbiri yamunthu, nkhani yamunthu, nkhani 2021

Anonim

Chiphunzitso

Yoji Yamamoto imatchedwa Pratcher ya mafashoni achimuna. Mosiyana ndi George Armani ndi Gianni, yemwe moyenera, opanga mafashoni, opanga mafashoni achi Japan "amateteza" thupi la munthu, limabisala ku diso lamphamvu. Zovala zonse pa zojambula zake asymmetric, baggy, ofanana ndi watsopano, komanso wokalambayo. Kwa mafashoni, yoji imadziwika ndi kuchepa kwa deconfarfam, yakuda ndi yosakanikirana ku Asia yomwe ili ndi ufulu waku Europe.

Ubwana ndi Unyamata

Yojato adabadwa pa Okutobala 3, 1943, m'chitsimikiziro cha Shinjiku, pa "chitsimikizo, chomwe kale chinali Tokyo," adadzipangirayo mwiniyo. Nkhondo yachiwiri yapadziko lonse idatenga ubwana wosangalatsa ndikupanga Japan wokonzeka, komanso bambowo.

Jodi anati: "Ndikamaganiza za iye, ndikumvetsetsa kuti ndikumva kulira kophukira kwa bomba," a Jodi adatero. - Zotsalira sizinatipatse zotsalazo. Kamera ya Leica adaikidwa m'manda opanda kanthu, omwe Atate adatsikira. "

Poyamba zaka 3-4, mnyamatayo adazindikira kuti moyo ungakhale waukulu. Kulimbana nthawi zonse kumayenera kupeza zofunika pa moyo kuti mudyetse nokha ndi amayi. Iye, panjira, amagwirira ntchito zodyera, motero wamemototo zimachitika pakati pa nsalu. Mwina zidakhudza mapangidwe ake.

Mu 1966, Yamamoto adalandira maphunziro ovomerezeka ku Yunivesite ya CAYO. Kuchokera kuntchito, komabe, ndinayenera kukana kuthandiza amayi anu. Mu studio yake, mwana wamwamuna anaphunzira maluso a gulu ndipo anagwera mu 1969 adalandira diploma Faphal College koleji ya BANDA.

Yoji adakwiyitsa zomwe sakanatha kusoka okondedwa ndi zovala zokongola. Studio ya amayi ake inali kudera la kabuki - kusangalatsa kwa shinjiku. Makasitomala omwe amakhala pafupipafupi anali antchito a mipiringidzo, mahule, oyang'anira, omwe amapeza ndalama ndizofanana ndi kuya kwa khosi.

"Atsikana amphepo amkuntho awa adapanga chithunzi changa cha umunthu kuyambira ndili mwana. Chifukwa chake, ndidatsimikiza mtima konse kuti ndipewe kupanga zovala za akazi a zidole omwe amakondedwa ndi amuna ena, "tsiku lina anazindikira kuti munthu wotchuka. Chifukwa chake lingaliro lidabadwa kuti lipange zosenda zovala.

Moyo Wanu

Yozi wamangato amateteza moyo wake. Ma tabolo akuyesera kuti amvetsetse zambiri, koma osalephera. Ena amalemba kuti wopanga mafashoni adakwatirana ndi mayi wina dzina lake Keiko, ndipo ubale wonse umamangidwa mosamala. Ena akuti analibe akazi akazi.

Ndi zodalirika kuti YOJI ali ndi mwana wamkazi wamkazi Lima Limi Friw, yomwe imathandizira bambo ake ndipo amapereka nkhani yake yazovala za avant-dima. Wopanga wina ali ndi ana amuna awiri. Malinga ndi chidziwitso china, nawonso amapindika mu mafashoni.

Kapangidwe ndi mafashoni

Mu 1981, ku Paris, imodzi mwa malo osungirako dziko lonse lapansi inali nkhani ya yobout yoboti ya yoji yamoto - y. Adadodometsa anthu ndipo adasokoneza kwambiri. COuumier ndi mikango yakudziko lapansi sinawone chilichonse chowoneka bwino m'magulu a masamba ndi ma silhouettes mumitundu yamdima. Ku Japan, azimayi omwe amavala zovala kuchokera kwa y amatchedwa "khwangwala".

Amapezeka, komabe, omwe amayamikira zopeka za Yamamoto. Mtolankhaniyo, mkazi wamabizinesi ndi kumasewera, otopa ndi amayi a zinthu zolimba, chovala zovala zawo zodzazidwa ndi madiresi oletsedwa, ndipo osati zachinyengo. Mu 1984, chotengera chachimuna cha Yoohi yabomatoto chimamasulidwa, ndipo Jack Nicholson ndi Brian Ferri adalowa mafani a a Baggy ndi maliro.

"Kupanga" zovala, Wopanga mafashoni wachi Japan amayang'ana chinsinsi cha thupi la munthu. Ali mwana, adalimbikira lingaliro kuti Silhouette ayenera kungowona munthu m'modzi - mnzake wofotokozedwa - mchipinda chogona.

Chifukwa chake, Yoji akutchedwa "mafashoni achikazi achikazi". Iye anali woyamba wa atsikana ambiri aku Briteni molunjika, malaya owonjezera ndi mathalauza.

"Kwa ine, mkazi amakopeka kwambiri, amatengedwa ndi ntchito yake, osasamalira wokondedwa wake, wamphamvu komanso nthawi yomweyo osalimba. Akamabisala, amphamvu amakana ukazi wake, umawonekera kwambiri pachikhalidwe. Mathalauza ovala bwino kwambiri amatha kukhala okongola kwambiri kuposa kavalidwe kakang'ono ka silika, "Yozizo Yamamoto adatero.

Osati chisalungamo komanso utoto. Chilichonse chomwe wopanga anali kuyang'ana wopanga - amalira masiketi a amayi. Ngakhale adachira kumwalira kwa mnzakeyo, adavala zakuda, zamdima, bard.

Molloval, yoji adawona kuti zovala zamithunzi yamdima zimakakamizidwa kukhala zosasangalatsa. Kupatula apo, kumbuyo kwa nsalu yamotoyo komanso miyala yamtengo wapatali kumangobisa kupanda ungwiro kwa chithunzicho. M'magulu awo, Wordoki amadalira zowonjezera zokhazo zomwe zimasuntha mafakitale: matumba, mafayilo ndi nsapato. Nthawi yomweyo, imakhala ndi nsapato yogwira ntchito, padendese.

Mu 1996, wopanga mafashoni adachepetsa mzere wake woponda. Mizimu yachikazi yoyamba Yohji idatuluka. Iwo, monga zovala, adayambitsa zomwe zingachitike. Koma Yamamoto, zokumana nazo zasayansi, zidapitilizabe. Tsopano m'mitundu yake, mitundu yopitilira 30 yamadzi ndi onse onunkhira bwino, ndi mafuta ankhanza okhala ndi zolemba za munk. Mizimu imawerengedwa kuti ndi mizimu "sindingakusokonezeni" (Chingerezi sindikukusokonezani).

Kambulu wina anali mgwirizano wa Yoji Yamamoto ndi Adidas. Mu 2003, zophatikiza zawo zophatikizika Y-3 zinatuluka. Squewer ndi ogwedezeka sanataye mizere itatu, koma yopezeka avant-Garso. Kudzoza pa zopereka izi wopanga mafashoni ku bizinesi omwe adayamba kuvala zovala zolemetsa.

Kwa zaka za zana la zana, yoji imatsutsa kukhazikitsa mafashoni ndikusintha lingaliro la kukongola. Ndipo mu 2009, mtundu wake udali pa milandu ya bange. Ngati kulibe thandizo lazachuma Corp., maziko a kugwirira ntchito kwa Japan, dziko silimawonanso "zopereka za yohjing". bizinesi.

"Ndikuganiza chimodzi mwa zifukwa zomveka zoti banbuloprapt ndikuti ndatulutsa brazda ya bolodi la yohji yamoto., Adapatsa ena mphamvu. Kupatula apo, ndimadziona ngati wopanga. Ndidauzidwa za kutukuka kwa bizinesiyo, koma tsiku lililonse masiku ano zinthu zitayamba kusokonekera, "adatero Yoji pokambirana ndi kuvala kwa akazi tsiku lililonse.

Yoji yamomoto tsopano

Ngakhale atakalamba, yoji yamoto ikadali yogwedeza malingaliro. Chifukwa chake, mu Seputembala 2019, kuwerengera chilimwe kwa chilimwe pa 2020 kunachitika ku Paris. Mutha kuzidziwa nokha kuti zigwirizane ndi zithunzi za YoHJi Yamamoto Inc. Mu "Instagram". Zikapangidwe, wopanga mafashoni adadzozedwa ndi lingaliro la kutentha kwadziko. Mu zovala, mawonekedwe a geometric adawonekera ndi matupi ena.

Nthawi ina, yoji adawona kuti mtundu wake udzafa ndi Iye. Wopanga mafashoni sangathe kulingalira kuti wina angatenge malo ake ndikupitiliza kumasula zovala. Mwina popita nthawi, mtundu wake chizindikirocho chidzatembenukira ku mphesa, ndipo mwina mwina bolodi a bolodi atenga mwana wamkazi wa otchuka.

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