I-Biograge
USerge Luyuten (noma ama-Luttans) ungumuntu odumile emhlabeni wemfashini, odumile njengomthwebuli wezithombe ovelele, i-stylist, i-cinematograph kanye noMdali wemimoya. Manje umele imikhiqizo yakhe ngokubambisana nenkampani yaseJapan Shiseido, okunosizo lwayo kuthola impumelelo maphakathi nawo-1980s.Ubuntwana nentsha
I-Biography Serzh Lyuten yaqala ngoMashi 14, 1942 edolobheni elincane laseFrance laseLille. Naphezu kwempi, abantu abazungeza umfana base besondele kule miqondo njengobuciko, imfashini nesitayela.
Ngenxa yokuthi ummeleli wesikhathi esizayo womkhakha wezithombe nomkhakha we-feshent wazalwa ngaphandle komshado osemthethweni, wayehlala emndenini ongakhulisanga. Kepha ngemuva komshado kababa nonina, ukuhleleka kwezinto kwatholakele, futhi ingane yathola uthando nokunakekelwa.
Lapho sebekhulile, uSerge waqala ukuthola imali ngokuzimela, eshiya izifundo zakhe esikoleni esiphakeme futhi ebeka i-salon yezinwele. Ukwenza izibopho ze-subset, wabuka isenzo sochwepheshe, futhi waqonda ubuciko bokuxhumana nabantu abaningi abacebile nabadumile.
Engxoxweni, uLyyuten wakhumbula okokuqala ukuthi athathe kanjani isikelo ukuba enze izinwele zezinwele zeza lapho kwakungekho zizandla zamahhala. UThilly ucabanga, washintsha kakhulu isithombe seklayenti elinozwela futhi ubusuku bonke wenza igama lakhe emkhakheni wezinwele.
Kusukela ngalowo mzuzu kuqhubeke, imfashini yaseFrance yafuna ukufika e-Master yeNtsha, okuthi, ngosizo lwamandla kanye nokomisa izinwele, kwasebenza izimangaliso ezinhle kakhulu. Izinwele ezinesitayela nezinwele zezinwele ezazisebenza kozakwethu isikhathi esiningi, uSerge wakwazi ukukwenza ngengxenye yehora.
Imisebenzi yasekuqaleni kakhulu iLyyuten yahlunga iChamber ye-Amateur, futhi ngokushesha iphothifoliyo yakhe yaphenduka i-albhamu yemibala enamakhasi amaningi. Wenza nezinye izithombe ezihleliwe zisebenzisa abantu obajwayele njengamamodeli, futhi ngokufana bafunda izincwadi ezikhethekile ngokuvezwa, ukukhanyisa, ingaphakathi nangemuva.
Ngo-1960, nomsebenzi wezinwele zezinwele, kwakudingeka ukuhlukana, ngoba uSerzhi wabiza ibutho, efuna ukuthumela eMpini yase-Algeria. Umfana osemusha oneminyaka engu-18 wenza isifo esinezinzwa zemizwa, bese kuba nokuhlaselwa kwangempela kokudangala kwasiza ukugwema impi yezwe.
Impilo yomuntu siqu
Akukho lutho owaziwa ngempilo yomuntu siqu yeSerzh Lusuten, ngaphandle kokuthi indlalifa yayo yahlala e-United States. UmFulentshi akasebenzisi amanethiwekhi omphakathi, ukuze angaphuli isikhala esiseduze, futhi akholelwe ukuthi ikhono lakhe elivelele lanele abalandeli.Phakathi kwezintatheli kukhona izinganekwane mayelana nokukhanyisa okudala eMarrakesh, okudinga ukubuyiselwa nokululama emashumini eminyaka edlule. Umnikazi wendlu yamakha usebenzisa yena ezokuzijabulisa futhi asebenze futhi athembisa ukuvula ukuvezwa lapho ngokuzayo, ukufaka ukungena lapho ithikithi elingadingi khona.
Izindawo zokuhlala ezakhiwe nguLyuten zikhumbuza i-Eastern Fairy Tale futhi zimele ukuvumelana kwezinto zakudala nezinto zanamuhla ezibizayo. Ongowokuzalwa eLille uqinisekile ukuthi izindonga uma isakhiwo esichithiwe sizosebenza inkonzo enhle kwizizukulwane futhi zizohlala iminyaka eminingi.
Inkambo
I-Independent Career Sergei yaqala ekuqaleni kweminyaka engama-60, kusukela ngesikhathi lapho kwanqunywa ukuthi kusuke kuLille to Paris. Usebenze njengomthwebuli wezithombe kanye nomklami wezinwele zemfashini nokwakha futhi wadala izithombe ezikhethekile ezaziphakamise udumo oluqeqeshiwe.
ULyyuten ubonwe ngokukhethekile kwabesifazane futhi wayazi ukuthi angagcizelela kanjani ubunye, futhi ngokushesha umsebenzi wakhe wabonakala esembozweni somagazini we-Voque. Wamenyelwa ukubambisana okuqhubekayo, futhi kwaba yimpumelelo enkulu, futhi wayengeke aphuphe ngokwenzeka ngokulandelayo.
Ngo-1967, ngemuva kwempumelelo yamaphrojekthi wombhali ezincwadini ezithandwa kakhulu ezizweni, njengeHarper's Bazaar kanye neJardin Desers Modes, ubaba odumile uChristian Dior, owayengummeli we-Lyshent futhi wakhombisa ukumthanda.
USerge wabhaliswa esifundeni senkampani njengomqambi womugqa wezimonyo zokuhlobisa, futhi leli kwakuyicala lokuqala emlandweni lapho kukhishwa indlu yemfashini. Kwaphela iminyaka eyi-12, umdanso waseLille wethule umhlaba amaqoqo amaningi anikeza intela kulezi zindawo njengombukiso kanye ne-avant-garde.
Uma ufuna izithombe ezibukwayo zikaDius, umFulentshi wahamba kakhulu emhlabeni futhi wake wanquma ukusho ngalokho okubonwa ngosizo lwamafilimu abhalwe phansi. Amaphrojekthi weStars Stars namaSuaiai abonise eCannes Festival, futhi ofakazi bokuzibonela bakhumbula ukuthi ngesikhathi sokubukwa kwejaji bamangala.
Ukwemukelwa okunjalo kanye nokuchazwa komuntu siqu eMnyuziyamu wase-US weHungegeim aphoqelela uSerge ngasekupheleni kwama-70s ukunquma esigabeni esilandelayo. Njengoba ejwayelene nemikhiqizo nomlando woMbhali Womkhiqizo owayengumakhemisi, umFulentshi wathuthela enhlokodolobha yaseJapan futhi wamukelwa njengomthakathi kanye nomlingo.
"Isimangaliso" sokuqala esenziwe nguLyyuten kwakuwumkhankaso wokukhangisa, sibonga ama-Asia athola ngayo isitayela sawo. Izithombe ezikhanyayo ezivele kumakhathalogi athonye amakhampasi amaRussia, omisebenzi yawo, owesiFulentshi owanqoba izinkulungwane zamamayela.
Ukuba ngumeluleki oyinhloko we-Design and Image, Serge, ngokwesekwa kwabaqambi bemfashini abadumile, waletha uphawu lwentengiso yeShisedo kwenye yezindawo eziholayo. Ngemuva kwalokho wahlanganyela ekwakheni amakha ngesisekelo senkampani ebongekile, ngoba iphunga elisebuntwaneni libangele ukuba nentshisekelo yakhe enkulu.
Ngo-1992, uLyyuten wakhipha imimoya uFéminité du Bois futhi wanikela ukusabalalisa ukuvula isitolo segama elihlukile. AmaJapan aqale angabaza inzuzo yebhizinisi eliyingozi, kepha ashintsha iphuzu lokubuka ngokushesha nje lapho abona imidwebo yemibukiso.
Umkhiqizo washeshe wathola umthengi, naphezu kwentengo ephezulu, futhi umbhali wasungula uhlobo olusha olubizwa ngeParfums-Beauteé Serge Luutens. Ngaphandle kokuqeda inkontileka noShiseido, waqala ukukhiqiza amakha angenakudinga ukukhangisa futhi wakujabulela ukuphumelela ngobuningi bezinqwaba.
Serge Luten manje
Njengamanje, uLyyuten uyaqhubeka nokwakha amakha, kanye nokukhishwa kwezincwajana zeShisedo zango-2020. Imikhiqizo eyethulwe ezindaweni zokudlela kanye nakuwebhusayithi esemthethweni yophawu ijabulela ukuthandwa okukhulu futhi iletha imali ezinzile.