I-Biograge
U-Yoji Yamamoto ubizwa ngokuthi yi-pratcher yemfashini yabesilisa. Ngokungafani noGeorge Armani noGianni Versice, ababeka phambili, izitayela eziqinile, umklami wemfashini waseJapan "uvikela" umzimba womuntu, ecasha esweni lomuntu. Zonke izingubo emikhumelweni yakhe i-asymmetric, i-baggy, efana nentsha, futhi esemdala. Ngemfashini, uYoji ubonakaliswa ngokuqokwa kabusha, okumnyama nokuxuba ukunambitheka kwase-Asia ngenkululeko yaseYurophu.Ubuntwana nentsha
U-Yoji Yamamoto wazalwa ngo-Okthoba 3, 1943, eSifundeni saseShinjuku, "ethafeni elishibhile, okwake kwaba yiTokyo," kusho umklami ngokwakhe. Impi yezwe yesibili ayithathanga nje kuphela ubuntwana obujabulisayo ekuthuthukiseni nasekulungiseleni kahle iJapan, kodwa futhi noYise.
"Uma ngicabanga ngaye, ngiyaqonda ukuthi ngisezwa imisindo yokuqhuma amabhomu," kusho uJodi. - Izidumbu azisinikanga izinsalela. Ikhamera yeLeica yangcwatshwa ethuneni elingenalutho, okwathi uBaba ayeshisa phansi. "Kakade ngineminyaka engu-3-4 ubudala, umfana wabona ukuthi impilo izoba nzima. Kuzofanela ukuthi umzabalazo kuzodingeka ukuthi aphile ukuze azondle wena noMama. Yena, ngendlela, wasebenzela umthungo, ngakho-ke ubuntwana bakwaYamamoto badlula phakathi kwezindwangu. Mhlawumbe kuthinte ukwakheka kwakhe.
Ngo-1966, iYamamoto yathola imfundo yezomthetho e-University of Cayo. Nokho, emsebenzini, kwadingeka wenqabe ukusiza umama wakho. Esitudiyo sakhe, iNdodana yafunda amakhono omsila futhi yavele yangena ezintweni ezibonakalayo ngo-1969 yathola idiploma yeBunka Fashion College.
U-Yoji ucasule lokho Angakwazi ukuxhasa izingubo ezithandekayo nezitayela. Isitudiyo sikanina sasisesifundeni saseKabuki - indawo yokuzijabulisa yesifunda saseShinjuku. Amakhasimende ahlala njalo ayengabasebenzi bamabha, ama-brothels, amashashalazi, okutholakele okutholwa ekujuleni kwentambo.
"Lawa mantombazane anomoya asungula isithombe sami sowesifazane kusukela ebuntwaneni. Ngakho-ke, ngazimisela ngazo zonke izindleko ukugwema ukudala izingubo zabesifazane abahlangane abathandwa ngamanye amadoda, "ngolunye usuku waphawula usaziwayo engxoxweni. Ngakho-ke umbono wazalwa ukudala usonge izingubo.Impilo yomuntu siqu
U-Yozhi Yamamoto ugada impilo yakhe. Amathebula azama ukuthola imininingwane yakhe, kodwa akwephuli kahle. Abanye babhala ukuthi umklami wemfashini wayeshade nowesifazane ogama lakhe linguKeiko, futhi ubunye ubuhlobo bakhele ngokungafanele. Abanye bathi wayengenaye abafazi.Kuyinto ethembekile kuphela ukuthi uYoji onenkulungwane yendodakazi i-Limi Feew, eqhubeka nobaba futhi idala amaqoqo awo okugqoka ama-avant-garde. Omunye umklami unamadodana amabili. Ngokweminye imininingwane, nabo baphotha emhlabeni wemfashini.
Idizayini nemfashini
Ngo-1981, eParis, esinye sezikhungo zemfashini yezwe kwaba isethulo seqoqo le-shot of yoji yammoto - y. washaqeka umphakathi futhi wabangela ukubuyekezwa okungekuhle. Ama-couturier nengonyama yezwe akubonanga lutho olukhangayo amafomu ezi-baggy kanye nama-silhouette ahlanganayo emikhunjini emnyama. EJapan, abesifazane abagqoka izingubo kusuka ku-y babizwa ngokuthi "i-Crow".
Batholakale, nokho, labo ababekwazisa inganekwane yeYamamoto. Intatheli, usomabhizinisi kanye nabalingisi, abakhathele omama bezinto eziqinile, bakhetha i-Y. Ward Cold Cold egcwele izingubo ezivinjelwe, hhayi ngokungananazi. Ngo-1984, kwadedelwa iqoqo le-Debul Male likaJohji Yamamoto, futhi uJack Nicholson noBrian Ferri bajoyina abalandeli bamatshe amatshe.
"Ukwakha" izingubo, umklami wemfashini waseJapan wagxila emfihlakalo yomzimba womuntu. Ebusheni bakhe, wanamathela emcabangweni wokuthi i-Silhouette yabesifazane kufanele ibone kuphela umuntu oyedwa - umlingani wakhe, nasendaweni echazwe ngokuqinile - egumbini lokulala.
Ngakho-ke, uYoji ubizwa ngokuthi ngumshayamthetho "imfashini yabesilisa". Wangempela wangowokuqala wamantombazane amaningi acwebezelayo egqoke ijazi eliqondile, edla amahembe namabhulukwe.
"Kimi, owesifazana wehliswa ngokwengeziwe, wadonswa umsebenzi wakhe, enganakekeli umusa womuntu, uqine futhi ngasikhathi sinye. Lapho efihla kakhulu, okunamandla kunqaba ubufazi bakhe, kulapho kubonakaliswa khona lapho kungubukhona. Amabhulukwe ekotini ahlanganiswe kahle angaba muhle kakhulu kunengubo enhle kasilika, "kusho uYozhi Yamamoto.Hhayi okungahleliwe nombala wombala. Konke umklami abuke umklami - iziketi zomama. Ngisho nokutholakele ekulahlekelweni ngumlingani, wagqoka umnyama, ohlaza okwesibhakabhaka, i-bard.
I-Molloval, u-Yoji waphawula ukuthi izingubo zemithunzi emnyama ziphoqelekile ukuba zingathandeki. Ngemuva kwakho konke, ngemuva kwendwangu ye-motoy kanye nobucwebe obusha nje bavele bafihle ukungapheleli kwesithombe. Eqoqweni labo, umklami uncike kuphela kulezo zeze zezesekeli ezihambisa imboni yezemfashini: izikhwama, ama-wallets kanye nezicathulo. Ngasikhathi sinye, inesicathulo esisebenzayo, esisefulethini.
Ngo-1996, umklami wemfashini uhlanganiswe umugqa wakhe wephunga. Imimoya yabesifazane yokuqala yohji yaphuma. Bona, njengezingubo, badala ukusabela okuxakile. Kepha i-Yamamoto, isipiliyoni sesayensi, iyaqhubeka nokwakha. Manje ebangeni layo, izinhlobo ezingaphezu kuka-30 zamanzi angaphansi komhlaba zombili izinambuzane zabesifazane ezinoshukela, kanye namakha amasilisa namanothi we-musk. Imimoya ibhekwa njengemimoya "Ngeke ngikuphazamise" (isiNgisi angizukuphazamisa).
Enye i-coup coup kwaba ukubambisana kwe-yoji Yamamoto nge-adidas. Ngo-2003, amaqoqo abo okuhlangene ama-y-3 aphuma. I-Sportswear nama-sneaker awalahlekelwa imichilo emithathu yendabuko, kepha athola i-avant-garde. Ugqozi kulokhu kuqoqwa umklami wemfashini waseJapan wamemeza kosomabhizinisi abaqale ukugqoka izingubo ezifayo.
Kwaphela ingxenye yekhulu leminyaka, i-Yoji inselele ukusungulwa kwemfashini futhi ishintsha umbono wobuhle. Kwathi ngo-2009, uhlobo lwakhe lwaluseduze kokuqothuka. Ukube bekungekho ukwesekwa kwezezimali kwe-Corp ehlanganisiwe., Isisekelo sokutshala imali ngqo kweJapan, umhlaba wawungeke usabona amaqoqo "wokulila" we-Yohji Yamamoto Inc .. Ngabona isizathu salesi simo i-Yamamoto ekutholeni "kokuchoboza" kwe- ibhizinisi.
"Ngicabanga ukuthi enye yezizathu ezingenzeka zokuqothuka ukuthi ngidedele iBrazda yeBhodi ye-Yohji Yamamoto Inc., yanikeza abanye ukulawula kakhulu. Ngemuva kwakho konke, ngizibona ngokuyinhloko ngumqambi. Ngatshelwa ngokuchuma kwebhizinisi, kodwa empeleni nsuku zonke lesi simo saba yinhlekelele enkulu, "kusho uYoji engxoxweni nokugqoka kwabesifazane nsuku zonke.Yoji Yamamoto Manje
Naphezu kokuguga, uYoji Yamamoto usazamazama imibono. Ngakho-ke, ngoSepthemba 2019, iqoqo lentwasahlobo-ehlobo eminyakeni engama-2020 yenzeka eParis. Ungazijwayeza ukuthi Vumela izithombe kwi-akhawunti esemthethweni ye-Yohji Yamamoto Inc. Ku- "Instagram". Lapho kudalwa, umklami wemfashini waphefumulelwa umbono wokushisa komhlaba. Ezingubo, amaphethini wejometri avele nemizimba eminingi.
Ngesinye isikhathi, u-Yoji wabona ukuthi uhlobo lwakhe luzofa naye. Umqambi wemfashini akakwazanga ukucabanga ukuthi othile uzothatha indawo yakhe futhi aqhubeke nokukhipha izingubo. Mhlawumbe ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, imikhiqizo yakhe izophenduka ngempela ibe yi-vintage, futhi mhlawumbe ama-brazdes ebhodi azothwebula indodakazi yosaziwayo.