I-Biograge
UPierre Cardin yigama, kusukela kuzwakala kwezinhliziyo zakhe namafashini omhlaba wonke. Umqambi wemfashini onethalente, uMdali onesibindi nosomabhizinisi onekhono, le ndoda yadala ubungqabavu bakhe bemfashini, okufakazela ukuthi ukuzikhandla nokuphupha kuyakwazi okuningi.Ubuntwana nentsha
I-Couturier yesikhathi esizayo yazalwa ngoJulayi 2, 1922 edolobheni lase-Italy laseSan Bjajo di Calcater emndenini omkhulu. Ubaba kaPierre wayengumhlinzeki, wabe esewa ngama-winery. Ngo-1924, abazali bakaKarden banezindlalifa bathuthela eFrance. Ebusheni bakhe, uPierre wathatha igxathu lokuqala ekugcwalisekeni kwephupho: wahlala ukuze afeze umsizi we-Tailor. Eminyakeni emithathu kamuva, ngokuzethemba nokuzethemba, le nsizwa yathuthela edolobheni laseVichy, lapho yathola khona umsila ogcwele esitolo sengubo yabesilisa.
Ngama-23 edlule, uCredn wayesengabizwa ngokuthi uchwepheshe ophethwe ngokuphelele. Kulesi sikhathi, uPierre waya ukunqoba iParis. Lapho, inkosi encane yadlula isuka e-Atelier e-Athetier, ithola isipiliyoni futhi ithola abantu obajwayele abasha abahambisana nomhlaba wemfashini. Ekugcineni, ukuqomisana okunjalo futhi kwasiza uPierre ukuba athole i-oda lokuqala elithi: Master kwadingeka ukuthi athundle izingubo zefilimu "ubuhle kanye nomqondisi" Wokudlala uJean Cocteau. Ngakho-ke i-biography yokudala yaqala.
Idizayini nemfashini
Ngemuva kweminyaka emibili kamuva, uPierre Cardin waba ngumqambi omkhulu we- "Christian Dior", esegcinile kulokhu okuhlonishwayo kweminyaka emithathu. Ngalesi sikhathi, uKuturier wakwazi ukuzakhela inkosi enesibindi abangazinaki izimo zengqondo zakudala futhi bengasabi izivivinyo ezinesibindi. Kungalesi sikhathi lapho ama-Cult Credin "agqoka - ama-Bubbles" avela futhi izingubo zokuqala ngesitayela se-Unisex (ezazivusa inkanuko).
Amaqoqo kaPierre Carnen adale izesekeli eziningi futhi azivelele, kodwa kakhulu abangela ukunconywa kanye nesifiso sokuba nezinto ezinhle kakhulu. Kamuva, i-kuturier izobizwa ngokuthi i-avant-garde yesitayela sokuthola imfashini: izingubo, izicathulo kanye nezikhwama zikaPierre Carden zazijwayelekile futhi zixakile, incithakalo yesikhathi sazo.
Ngo-1957, uCardin wethule iqoqo lokuqala lamamodeli wezingubo zabesifazane. Amakhosi ayelindele ukuphumelela okudidiyelwe: Ukusika okugqamile, izigqoko ezikhanyayo nezingubo ezimile zazo kwadingeka zenze ubuhle bayo yonke iminyaka, futhi abagxeki abasebenza ngokuqinile, isivunguvungu sokuvunyelwa. Futhi isintu sikaPierre Carden sibophekile kwimfashini yamaTunnics, izibuko kanye nezingubo zokusikwa okungajwayelekile.
Isitolo sokuqala sesitolo sikaPierre Cardin savula maphakathi nawo-1950s. UBoutique wabizwa ngokuthi u-Eva. Ngemuva kweminyaka emithathu, umklami wesibili wemfashini uyavulwa - u-Adamu. Akunzima ukuqagela ukuthi "u-Adamu" wanikela ngamadoda, futhi "eve" - izingubo zengxenye enhle yobuntu. Amadoda wezambatho ezinemibala eminingi nawo adingeka abe yi-couture enhle: Cardin okokuqala ngekhulu lama-20 aphakamisa ukuthi izingubo eziqinile zaphansi hhayi kuphela amathoni amnyama amnyama, ampunga nensundu. Ngaleso sikhathi, kwadingeka isinqumo esinjalo ngokungabi nesibindi namabutho ezinhlamvu, ngoba umphakathi oqinile wasabela ngokungadingekile ukuba abonakaliswe ngokungafanele.
Enye into ehlukile ye-Carden uthando lwe-Show ekhanyayo nengeyona eyejwayelekile. I-Master yayifanele ukuhlela umbukiso ngqo emgwaqweni noma esitolo. Kulezi zinsuku, lokhu kubonakala kujwayelekile, futhi ngaleso sikhathi kwakuwukugenca nje kwama-stereotypes.
Indlu yemfashini
Indlu kaPierre Cardin eyavulwa ngo-1950, ikhipha, ekugcineni, iphupho lezingane. Ngasikhathi sinye, umklami wemfashini azibonakalise njenge-couture enethalente, kepha njengosomabhizinisi onzima futhi obala ubani owazi kahle lokho okudingekayo ebhizinisini, futhi wazi ukuthi ungawafaka kanjani amanani entengo.Umculi waba ngumuntu wokuqala embonini yemfashini, ocabanga ukungena emakethe hhayi kuphela iYurophu, kodwa futhi neRussia, China, Japan nakwamanye amazwe. Ngaphansi kwegama likaPierre Cardin, ngaphezu kwezingubo nezinye izinsimbi, amakha anokunambitheka okuncane aqala ukushiya izibani, ama-alamu kanye nepani yokuthosa. UPierre wazuza inhloso: igama lombuso wakhe laphakanyiswa, kwathi nalabo abangalandelanga imfashini batholwe beyazi ilogo.
Ngo-1957, umklami wemfashini waya mathupha eJapan, lapho athola khona isihloko sikaProfesa weKholeji yaseJapan yemfashini neyakha. Ngo-1959, umklami wethula iqoqo lezingubo zokugqoka ze-prêt-a-porter (okungukuthi, izingubo ezitholakala ngamanani azo zonke izingxenye zabantu). Lo mthetho wethuka emphakathini wemfashini, futhi ama-Crenn aze awela ngisho nohlu lwe-Paris Association olubizwa ngeChambre Syndica, ngaleso sikhathi elalilawula yonke into ngokuqondene nemfashini ephezulu.
Ama-60s aphawulwa yizingubo zezindlela ezingajwayelekile nemibala egqamile: Inkosi yahlala yethembekile kuye. Kodwa-ke, kancane kancane i-couturier yathambisa "ukukhanya kwezifiso" ekwakhiweni kwezingubo zasemadolobheni yansuku zonke, kubona ukuthi akuwona wonke umuntu okwazi ukuvela esutsheni eliqhakazile. Ngo-1961, uPierre wahamba ngezivumelwano emasikweni nasezinhlokweni zezincazelo, evula isitolo sezingubo, ahlanganiswa ngama-canons asemqoka.
Ngo-1966, uPierre Cardin waqala waqala umsebenzi eNew York. Injabulo lapho amaqoqo ama-avant-Garde ahlangana khona, okulindelwe okunesibindi komklamo wemfashini, futhi kungekudala kwesinye isitolo somkhiqizo savulwa eNew York. Lo nyaka ubuye wabekwa eCouture yoMklomelo Ohlonishwayo "Wokusakazeka Kwegolide, okuyi-MAST anikezwe yi-Germany.
Ngasekupheleni kweminyaka engama-60s, izwe lezemfashini lamboza "isikhala Fever" yangempela. "Iphayona" likaYuri Gagarin laya emkhathini, ngemuva kweNas Nas Nasa, okokuqala kwangena ebusweni benyanga. Konke lokhu sekuphenduke umklami wemfashini. Izingubo zekusasa zivele eqoqweni.
Ngaphezu kwemfashini ye-Carden, ezinye izibonakaliso zobuciko zazihlala zinesifiso: izakhiwo, imidlalo yaseshashalazini. Ngo-1970, inkosi enkulu yathenga isakhiwo sezemidlalo eParis futhi yabiza uSpace Pierre Cardin. Esiteji salesi sikhungo sakwazi ukudlala izinkanyezi zeNtshonalanga ne-USSR. Lo mklami ngokwakhe wazivuma engxoxweni yokuthi waphupha ngokuba ngumdlali kusukela ebuntwaneni futhi waze waboshwa ngamafilimu - kuyiqiniso, ezindimeni ze-episodic.
Omunye wosaziwayo okhanyayo wavele e-Espas Cardin, waba yiKinodiv Marlene Diethrich. UCouturier waphupha ngokuthola umlingisi enkundleni yemidlalo yaseshashalazini yakhe, eholwa izingxoxo ezinde, ezakhiwe iminyaka emi-2. AmaJalimane aphenduka abe yimali engenasisekelo, efuna imali enkulu kanye nabaculi, kodwa uPierre wayekulungele ukufeza yonke imibandela, kukhanya kuphela uMarlene endaweni yakhe. Ukubambisana kuphenduke ukuba nzima ngenxa yomqambi wemfashini, kepha kuthela izithelo - amakhonsathi aphelelwa yimpumelelo.
Ngo-oda, iCouturier ngemuva kokusebenza ngakunye emilenzeni yomlingisi kusuka kuvulandi yaphonsa ama-roses abomvu angama-300. Lapho usuqede isivumelwano, umdlali ongenasisekelo wathumela incwadi eya encwadini eyabonga ngayo ngenhlangano enhle kakhulu yemibono yakhe. Kepha ngesikhathi seCardin esikhathele kakhulu ngomhlophe weVenus eliqhakaza, elaphula umyalezo wakhe.
Akunakubaluleka kangako kwe-Espace Pierre Cardin, iBallerina of Maya Mikhailovna Plisetskaya yayiphelele. Ngokokuqala ngqa, umklami wemfashini wabona umdansi ku-ballet "Carmen", lapho inkundla yemidlalo yaseshashalazini yayikhona eParis. Ukudicilelani kanye nokuhlaziywa komculi kujabulise uPierre, okwenza ama-Plisetsk "Mused" Museum of Design. Lapho uMaya Mikhailovna ethola indima enkulu ekwakhekeni kwe-Anna Karenina, uCardin wadala izingubo eziyi-10 ezithandayo.
Lo mculi wema umsebenzi onzima - ukugcina ukwakheka kwezingubo zabesifazane ezinhle zekhulu le-XIX, ngenkathi enza izingubo ezinhle ze-ballerina zilula futhi zilungele ukunyakaza kukho. Kodwa-ke, igama lomklami wemfashini alizange liwe kumaphosta - izinkomba ze- "West" zazasaba imikhandlu. Ngaphezu kwalokho, uPierre wanikeza i-ballerina yansuku zonke nezindlu zangasese zakusihlwa.
Ngo-1998, emcimbini wokufika kweCouturier eRussia, amaPlisetskaya ahlela umbukiso "imfashini nomdanso". Umphakathi wakwazi ukubona umsebenzi we-wizadi owakhiwe nguye ngenxa yesehlakalo. Ukunakekelwa kukaMaya Mihaylovna ngonyaka ka-2015 kwaba yinhlekelele yeFranceman.
Eminyakeni eyalandela, uPierre Cardin, naphezu kokudala, waqhubeka nokubamba isandla sakhe ekushayweni kwengqondo yakhe. Amaqoqo namakhathalogi owethulwe kuwebhusayithi esemthethweni ye-Cardin ye-Pierre aphinde agcwaliswa futhi avuselelwe, futhi uPierre wayefuna izindlela ezintsha nezinqumo ezaholela ekuthuthukisweni kwenkampani.
Ngo-2017, umklami ngokwesiko wajabulisa abalandeli bomkhiqizo ngamaqoqo amasha ngezikhathi ezithile nezithombe ezikhanyayo ezivela kumibukiso. Ngezikhathi ezithile, uCardin wenza imizamo yokuthengisa inkampani, ekhuthaza lokhu ngokuthi wayengenazindlalifa, futhi icala kufanele lihlale ezandleni ezithembekile. Kodwa-ke, kuze kube manje, uMbuso Omkhulu akamtholi umthengi. Mhlawumbe leli cala lisezikhungweni eziceliwe ngumculi.
Impilo yomuntu siqu
Impilo yomuntu siqu ye-Carden yayingashesha kangako kunamamodeli wezingubo. Inkosi ayizange ifihle isifiso sayo kubantu, kodwa enhliziyweni kaPierre kwakukhona indawo nentokazi. Umlingisi uZhanna Moro, abalandeli ababheka ukuthi uMdwebi Wabaculi, waba ngumnyuziya umlingo, isihloko sokudumisa nokukhulekelwa.
"Ngihambe lo wesifazane futhi ngazizwa ngenhla kwenjabulo. Njengokungathi wenzelwe ngqo kimi. Waphenduka wonke umphefumulo wami, "kuvunywa uCardin ngokuhamba kwesikhathi.Ubudlelwano babo bathatha iminyaka emine, khona-ke intando yokuxhumana okukuhle uZhanna noPierre bama.
Omunye umuntu osondelene noPierre Carnen - u-Andre Oliver, owayengumuntu owayekade ngenxa yomunye, umlingani othembekile, umlingani ebhizinisini futhi, ngamahemuhemu, othandekayo. UPierre ngokwakhe waphawula ngokuphila kwakhe uqobo:
"Ngalala nabesifazane, ngalala nabantu. Im Freem Free ".Ukushona
NgoDisemba 29, 2020 Kwaziwa ukuthi uPierre Cardin ushonile. Inkosi yayineminyaka engama-98 ubudala. Washona kwesinye sezibhedlela zaseParis. Ukufa komqambi wemfashini kwatshelwa izihlobo zakhe.
Ngemuva kokushona komculi omkhulu, umbuso we-Carden waqhubeka ekhona, efaka izidingo ze-fashion. Ekwiwebhusayithi esemthethweni yemodeli eyethulwe izicathulo, izembatho, i-jean namanye amasampula. Izingubo nezesekeli nazo zithengiswa ezitolo eziku-inthanethi nasezitolo ezinkulu.