I-Biograge
ICouturier IVA Henri don Mathiere Saint Saint Saint-Laurent, esaziwa ngathi njenge-Yves Saint-Laurent, ibizwa ngokuthi imboni yezemfashini, inkosana encane yemfashini ephezulu ne-classic yaphakade. UNicolas Sarkozy waphawula ukuthi uLaurent waseNanta ubengowokuqala phakathi kozakwe kozakwethu baphakamise imfashini izinga lobuciko.
Umngani kanye nozakwabo uKuturier - UPierre Berez - ufingqiwe ngaphansi kwe-biography ye-IVA Saint-Lauren, waphawula ukuthi uCoco Chanel wathonya ingxenye yokuqala yekhulu lamashumi amabili, nengxenye yesibili - iSaint-Laurent. Wanikeza ubuntu kwisitayela se-Unisex, abesifazane abagqoke ama-tuxedo, amabhuzu aphezulu, ama-blouse asobala futhi agqoke ama-trapezings. Futhi owokuqala wamenyelwa e-podium yamadoda anesikhumba esimnyama.
Ubuntwana nentsha
Ikusasa elithi "Umakhi" Wezingubo zemfashini wazalelwa e-Algeria Oran ehlobo lika-1936. Ubaba kababa wasebenza nge-ejenti yomshuwalense, futhi umama waba ngo-Iva umnyuziyamu wokuqala ophefumulele ukwakhiwa kwemidwebo yezingubo zokugqoka. Kusihlwa kwakhe ngishiya indodana yamadodakazi amabili namadodakazi amabili belinde isethulo sezemidlalo. Dweba imidwebo yezingubo yves Saint-Laurent yaqala eneminyaka engu-8 ubudala, kwathi ngo-11 wathwalwa ngesigaba seshashalazini. Yebo, ukuze maduze nje kwakha indawo enhle yendlu, igqoke onodoli ezingubeni ezikhuphukile efulethini elidwetshwe.
Endlini kwakungekho ukwesaba okudala, "okwenziwayo" u-Iva wabuka umama, odade nabazala. Umbono ongabonakali ku-ututirier osemusha wakhiqiza ukudlalwa kwe-Great Louis Khuve "isikole sabesifazane", indawo enhle kanye namasudi umculi waseFrance.
Kamuva, uSaint-Laurent wavuma ukuthi, ebona izingubo zabalingisi bezemidlalo etherrini abavela eBerar, babona ukuthi into esemqoka esudini kwakuwumphefumlo, nowesifazane egqoke. E-Algeria yves Saint-Laurent iziqu ekolishi naseLyceum, ukugxila ezihlokweni eziyizintandokazi - isiFulentshi nesiLatini. Abalobi abathonya i-WorldView, ebizwa nge-Andre Zhida neMarseille Prist, babeka ama-matisse kubaculi.
Idizayini nemfashini
E-17, le nsizwa yafika e- "Capital of Fashion" futhi yasayina ukuthola izifundo "kusuka kuture". Impumelelo yokuqala yafika ngonyaka ofanayo: Ingubo emnyama ye-cocktail, umdwebo owadala ama-Yves Saint-Laurent, uthathe indawo yokuqala emqhudelwaneni. Eminyakeni emibili kamuva, ngo-1955, insizwa eneminyaka engu-19 yathatha umsizi wabasebenzi bakaChristian Diora. Ngo-1957, kusho inhloko yemfashini indlu. Iminyaka emibili yokubambisana, i-Dior Shee ethafeni lomsizi osemusha, ngakho-ke abanikazi balo mkhiqizo babheja e-Iva Saint-Laurean, banikela ngeCouturier eneminyaka engu-21 isikhundla soMqondisi wezobuciko.
Ekuqaleni kuka-1958, umklami wethula iqoqo le-rut enkantolo enkantolo, lapho u-Iva Saints - uLaurean aphefumulele amaSundars aseRussia. Akekho owayelindele ukuthi i-furor enjalo: Kusuka ku-Iva kwakulinde ukuqhubeka komugqa weDiora - ama-silhouette ahlanganisiwe. Futhi okusha okwethule u-anyanisi omusha ngokuphelele - i-a-silhouette. Izingubo ezimfishane ze-Trapezoidal, zihlanganiswe ezindwangu ezigelezayo nosilika, "kulindwe" isidumbu sowesifazane futhi azangenza i-accent ejwayelekile okhalweni. Ngosuku olulandelayo, ngemuva kokwethulwa kwamathebhulethi eParis, babhala ukuthi ama-Yves Saint-Laurent nama-Saranfans "akhe asindise."
Ehlobo lika-1959, umklami waya eMoscow phakathi kwendoda eyishumi nambili, abe yiphayona lomkhakha wezemfashini waseFrance eSoviet Union. Ngonyaka olandelayo, i-matra encane yafika enkonzweni yezempi futhi yathumela e-Afrika. Ukuhlolwa kwamasosha othwala amasosha ama-yves Saint-Laurent awakwazanga ukuma: Ngemuva kwezinsuku ezingama-20 kwacekelwa phansi ngemuva kokuwohloka kwemizwa futhi kungeniswe esibhedlela. Le nsizwa iphathwe ngokushaqeka kukagesi kanye nokulungiswa kwezokwelapha "okunzima", ngemuva kwalokho alahlekelwe amakhilogremu angama-35.
Ukubuyela endlini yemfashini, ama-Yves Saint-Laurent aqhamuka neqoqo elisha le-Spring-Sum ehlobo ", elethula ngawo-1960. Amajakethi wesithuthuthu aqhekekile enziwe ngesikhumba sengwenya kanye nama-mink ama-coats anemikhono emiswe yimikhono eyethukile ekhaya: Iqoqo lalibonakala libonakale kakhulu ne-garde. I-Saint-Laurean yaxoshwa, ifaka esikhundleni se-couturier esezingeni eliphakeme ukuba ibe uMark Baran ongabikezeli. Uxhase umngani wakhe ongumklami we-Pierre berge. Wasiza ukubhekana nokushayisa nokuphuma owinile: yves Saint-Laurent wawina isinxephezelo semali ngokuqhekeka kwenkontileka engekho emthethweni.
Imfashini House YSL.
Ukuthola umtshalizimali omusha - Usomabhizinisi waseMelika uMark Robinson - yves Saint-Laint-Laint-Laurent noPierre Berez bathola indlu yabo yemfashini ne-logo ye-YSL. Ngaphambi kokwethulwa kweqoqo ekupheleni kukaJanuwari 1962, amaParisians aphelelwa ngamandla ngokuhluleka okuzayo, akholelwa ukuthi umklami wemfashini wayengenamali ngokucatshangelwa kokukhulelwa. Kepha kuthunyelwe ama-detactors: Umugqa omusha wokugqoka nomoya wesikhathi nama-silhouette ohlombe kaFranco Sagan noBaroness de Rothschild.
Ngo-1965, ama-Yves Saint-Laurent aveze umhlaba iqoqo lezinguquko elithi "Mondrian", ememezela ukuthi wayekhathele ukuhlwanyela amakhosikazi ama-minaares. Ama-silhouette ezingubo ezigqoke imidwebo yejometri yomculi waseNetherlands uPita Mondrian amangaza umhlaba wemfashini. Eqoqweni, umklami wasebenzisa umsebenzi we-Facialist of Kazmeir Malevich noSerzh Polyakova. Izingubo zokuqoqwa kwezibalo - hhayi ukuphrinta, kepha izingcezu ezinemibala ezihlanganisiwe. Lo mqondo wathathwa ozakwabo kaSaint-Laurean, ekwenzeni izincazelo zabo, kepha umsuka womqondo wema ama-Yves Saint-Laurent.
Ngo-1966, i-YSL yagubha ukuvulwa kwesitolo sokuqala se-boutique nge-roste-a-port tletha, esihlokweni lapho uGauche avele khona egameni (i-volnodumtsy, lapho ivolumu kanye nezinguquko zixazululwa). Leli gama lacelwa izinguquko zokuguqula ukuthi i-Yves Saint Laurent yethulwe embonini yezemfashini: abesifazane beCuturier begqoke amasudi wamadoda abukeka ngokobulili nenhle.
Ngemuva konyaka, iqoqo le- "tuxedo" lenzeke, elithi yvent Saint-Laurent "liqede" izinsalela zemfashini yezinzalamizi. Ku-wardrobe yabesifazane kwaqhamuka "izinto zabesilisa - i-tuxedo, izigqoko zebhulukwe, amajakethi ngesitayela se-" safari ", amajakethi okhuthazayo. Kepha lezi zinhlobo, "ezibolekayo" zigqila, azizange zinciphise abesifazane bobulili.
Iqoqo elithi "I-Librasson" lango-1971 laba livuselisa kakhulu, linamathela ekhanda lomlobi ukugxekwa. Emgqeni weSuits Matra, i-Pikasso Paloma ephefumlelwe. Ngokunambitheka okucashile futhi ungesabi izivivinyo, owesifazane uthenge isudi yama-40s emakethe yase-flea, eshaywe u-Iva Saint-Laurent. Ezokungcola, abesifazane banyatheliswa ezingutsheni ezifana neMpi Yezwe II.
Enye imnyuziyamu engiphefumulela uLaint Laurent eqoqweni elithi "ILibrason" kwakungu-Propaponer noPopifier Ostolev Marlene Diethrich. Omdala kakhulu ubethukuthelisa: bakhumbula iminyaka yokuhlala kwamaNazi. Ama-lights amnyama, izicathulo zeplatifomu kanye nokubukeka okuphefumulelwe okuphefumulelwe okuphefumulayo okuphefumulelwe nabesifazane bokuziphatha okulula okuvela ehlathini le-boulogne. Kepha ku-shift shkwal, ukugxekwa kwafika ngokungafanele ku-boom "emadodeni" wabesifazane kusuka ku-YSL: yves Saint-Lairent futhi uLaurent wabikezela izinkambiso, ezinyathela ezimbili ezizayo.
Umhleli we-Fashion Edition Diana Viralyland uthe i-Kuturier "inendlela ekhethekile yabesifazane," nanoma yini umane, imfashini yonke ubudala izohamba ngemuva kwakhe. Ngo-1976, ama-Yves Saint-Laurent aveze ama-ballets aseRussia kanye neqoqo le-Opera ngokomela izinto ezintsha, ayenenkutha yaseshashalazini yaseRussia, izisusa zezwe. I-podium engcolisayo ubuhle ezigqokweni "ezifuywayo" ze-motley nge-embroidery kanye negolide ukuthunga.
Ngo-1990 kwabhalwa yiqoqo lentela, okuyinto yakudala, okulindele ukunakekelwa okusheshayo, okunikelwe kubantu bakhe abathandekayo - abadlali, abadansi, abaculi. Ngingasho kalula ama-Yves Saint-Laurent nabalandeli kanye nokuthula kwemfashini ngoJanuwari 2002. Umbukiso weqoqo lokugcina wabanjelwa enkabeni yeGeorge Pompidou. Farewell eMaestro, eneminyaka engama-40 ejoyine futhi echaza imfashini, yaba umcimbi kazwelonke.
Izimonyo namakha - esinye isahluko sokwakheka okukhanyayo kweSaint-Laurent. Ngo-1971, inkanyezi yemboni yemfashini yomhlaba yethule amakha okuzalwa "opium". Ukukhangiswa kwavela njengokuvusa inkanuko njengephunga ngokwalo: Ngokwethulwa kwemimoya, i-IV Saint-Laurent yadalulwa. Esikhathini esizayo, amanzi endlu yangasese kanye namanzi anamakha akhangiswa uLinda Evangelist, uRupert Everett kanye nesehlakalo esiyinkimbinkimbi se-couturier uSophie.
Impilo yomuntu siqu
UPierre Berez wayengumngane, umlingani kanye nomthandi u-Iva Saint-Laurent. Maphakathi nawo-1970s, inoveli yaphela, kepha ubungane nokubambisana kwebhizinisi kwasala. Ngaphambi nje kokushona kukaMatra, lo mbhangqwana waphetha umshado womphakathi.
U-Yves Saint-Laurent wayethandana nomlingani kaKarl Lagerfeld's Jacques de Bashker. Le nsizwa yenzeka emndenini ofundile, yahlukaniswa ukubukeka okuhle nothando lwamaqembu okuziphilisa. UJacques oneminyaka engaba ngu-12 ubudala wahlanganisa ubudlelwano neLagerfeld, kodwa wabe eseya eSaint-Laurean. Ngemuva kweminyaka eyi-6, uJacques de Baser ushona ngenxa yengculazi.
Ukuqondiswa okungajwayelekile kwe-IVA Saint-Laurean akuzange kube yisithiyo ekuthandeni kwabesifazane: ukuboleka izigqoko zabesilisa nezithelo, isitayela se-Unisex bebengafisi ukuguqula owesifazane endodeni. Amabhulukwe namabhulukwe wesikhumba avela kwaLaint Laurent "uphefumula" ngobulili, amajakethi kanye nezingubo zemvula ze-sufari ziyamangaza ngowesifazane futhi zigcizelele amafomu.
Abesifazane IVA Saint-Lauren babizwa ngokuthi u-Catherine Denev, Pikasso Picko, i-Mannequins, Verishka (Vera von Lendorf) noLulu de La Falez.
Ukushona
Iminyaka eyisithupha edlule yempilo kaMaestro ichithwe engxenyeni ye-ultramaric eMarrakesh. I-Yves Saint-Laurent yasuka ezindabeni ngasekupheleni kwawo-1980 ngenxa yezinkinga zempilo: UCouturier wasebenzisa kabi utshwala nezidakamizwa, waphathwa kaninginingi. Ngo-1992, iBarge yamemezela ukuhamba kuka-Iva Saint-Laurent kanye "nokuphela kwemfashini ephezulu", kepha ukuhamba okuphezulu kwezindaba kwenzeka ngemuva kweminyaka eyi-10. Izinkinga zezezimali ziwele endlini ye-YSL. ICouturier yashona ngeSonto kusihlwa ekuqaleni kwehlobo lika-2008 eParis, owabona ama-UPS akhe futhi awela. Imbangela yokufa kuka-Iva Saint-Laurent kwakuyisimila sobuchopho.Ukuvalezela esishayamthetho semfashini yezwe kwenzeka eParis Church of Saint-Roche. UPrahi Wyva Saint-Laurent waxosha ingadi yakhe ayithandayo eVilla "Mazhorel" eMarrakesh, lapho ayethanda ukuhlala khona kusihlwa enkundleni ye-Bulldog nge-PSA yakhe yase-III (amagama esidlaliso afanayo athola ama-PSA amabili edlule). Amafilimu amabili asuswa ngomsebenzi we "Fashion yaphakade ye-Classic": "Yves Saint-Laurent" Jalil Lespré kanye ne- "Saint-Laurent. Isitayela - Ngingu "Berrão Bonello. Zombili lezi zipende ziphume ngo-2014.
Isimo sombuso sanamuhla
Ngo-1999, ama-Yves Saint-Laurent athola i-Italian House Gucci, ephathiswe ukuthuthukisa amaqoqo e-FORD. ICouturier isebenze ekwakhiweni komugqa omusha kuze kube ngu-2004, ngemuva kokunakekelwa kwayo, kudluliswa kudluliselwe eStefano Pilati. Kusukela ngo-2011 kuya ku-2013, uMqondisi oMkhulu we-Fashion House Yves Saint Laurent Paris waba Belgian. Ngesikhathi sobuholi bakhe ebusika uMqondisi we-2012 Creative Director, u-Edie Sluman waqokwa umqondisi wokudala. Ehlobo lonyaka ofanayo, uSvanima waqamba kabusha umugqa eSaint Laurent Paris.
Ngo-2012, amakha amakha ama-YSL adale amakha nge-manifesto enesibindi futhi ekhululiwe. Ama-connoisseurs abize amakha "Manifesto feminiinity": "Bavulekele" amanothi aluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, enhliziyweni "yezimbali yezimbali, egcwaliswa ngokhuni" Chords ".
Ngo-2016, uSliemanna washintsha umklami u-Anthony Vackarello. Ngo-2017, uVakcquello wahlanganisa ndawonye imibukiso yamaqoqo abesifazane nabesilisa wesikhathi sasekwindla-ubusika. Eqoqweni elisha, umklami wethula iziketi ezimfushane ezivuselelayo, amabhulukwe avela ku-vinyl, ama-corsets futhi uma nje abolekwe amabhuzu ama-Yves Saint-Laurent nge-high-tie. IVakccarello izoguqula okuluhlaza ibe luhlaza ku-garmonka. Izindlu ezintsha zemfashini zingathengwa kuwebhusayithi esemthethweni. Amanani amamodeli wokugqoka, izikhwama kanye nezicucu ezishintshashintshayo ku- "zihunyushwe ngokuthi" kuDemocratic.
Amacaphuna
- "Kuyo yonke le minyaka ngabona ukuthi into ebaluleke kunazo zonke egqoke umfazi omfaka."
- "Kule mpilo ngiyazisola ngento eyodwa kuphela - ukuthi uJean akazange eze nami."
- "Izingubo kufanele zibe ngaphansi kobuntu bowesifazane, hhayi okuphambene."
- "Uthando luyizimonyo ezinhle kakhulu. Kepha kulula ngezimonyo. "
- "Izingubo zami zenzelwe abesifazane abangakwazi ukuhamba ngamasudi angamashumi amane."
- "Ngosuku olulodwa" oluhle "emsakazweni kwamemezela ukuthi ngife. Ama-corlons wezintatheli aphuthume kimi. Kwakudingeka ukusho ukuthi konke lokhu kungamanga: ngiphile futhi ngicishe ngiphilile. Kepha ngasizathu simbe bebengafuni ukungikholwa, yize babengibona ngamehlo abo. "
- "Izingubo ezinhle zowesifazane zifanelana nendoda enothando. Kepha kulabo abancishwa injabulo enjalo, kukhona kimi. "
- "Ukudlula kwemfashini, isitayela sisenaphakade."