I-Biograge
UMark Jacobs ngumklami wezembatho zaseMelika zezingubo nezinye izinsimbi, onakho ubuqambi bakhe babujwayele kunoma yiliphi ikona lomhlaba. Umsunguli wohlobo lwakhe akesabi izivivinyo ezinesibindi. Umqambi uqhathaniswa nenkosi yama-midas: Iyiphi ingxenye yewadiandebe kade ayizalanga uphawu lokumangalisa, wonke umuntu ngokushesha ufuna ukukuthola.Ubuntwana nentsha
I-ututirier edumile yindodana yomndeni omkhulu wamaJuda, yazalwa ngo-Ephreli 9, 1963 eNew York. Abazali basebenza nama-ejenti aseshashalazini. Lapho umfana eseneminyaka eyisikhombisa, uBaba ushonile, futhi umphemzi ojabulayo umile. Umama ushaye ukufuna umyeni omusha, ukuguqula abashadikazi njengamagilavu, ngesikhathi esifushane bakwazile ukuhamba kathathu ngaphansi komqhele.
UMarku, kanye nomfowabo nodadewabo, kwakungezona izenzo. Usuvele usekhulile, umklami wemfashini wakhuluma engxoxweni yokuthi, ngaphezu kwesifiso esingenampilo sokuthola injabulo yomuntu siqu, umzali wabhekana nokuphazamiseka kwengqondo.
I-pealing endlini yabazali, osemusha waya ukuyohlala kugogo wakhe kuyise, owangena efulethini kanokusho eSkyscraper Majestik. Nguye owabeka ukuqala kokuqala kwe-biography kaMarku uJacobs: Ugogo wambeka umfana ukunambitha ebuhleni, kodwa izinto ezingokoqobo, wafundisa ukubamba izinaliti ezandleni zakhe ezandleni zakhe, edala izingubo ezikhethekile ezakhiwe.
UMark uthweswe iziqu esikoleni sezibalo, kwathi eseminyakeni engu-15 wajoyina amazinga abafundi baka-Art and Design aphezulu. Ukusondela ukuze ujwayelane nezitayela zemfashini, le nsizwa yasebenza ngokufana e-Boutique yezingubo ze-avant-garde "charavari". Kwakukhona umhlangano onzima lapha - uJacobs waqala ukuxhumana noPerry Ellis, umklami, mayelana nezinganekwane. Ngaleso sikhashana, uMark wagcina eqonda ukuthi uzokwazi ukuxhuma impilo ngemfashini, kungaba isandla sokusebenza izingubo ezinhle.
Umsiko
UMark waqala ukufaka amathemba aphezulu emkhakheni wezemfashini namanje umfundi. Ngo-1984, le nsizwa yaba ngumnikazi womklomelo ovela kuChester Wayberg nase-Ellis "iGolide Prist", kwathi kungekudala yabizwa ngokuthi ngumqambi omuhle kakhulu wonyaka phakathi kwabafundi. Ngasikhathi sinye, uJacobs wanquma ukuzama amandla ekwakheni iqoqo lakhe, elethulwe kuma-sweats ahlobene nemfashini ahlobene nemfashini. "Isampula lepeni" lomqambi wemfashini we-novice laphuma ngaphansi kwe- "Sketchbook Label" Brand futhi sathola ukuvuselelwa ukubuyekezwa kwabagxeki.
Umsebenzi otholwe ngokushesha. I-Couture encane ngemuva kokushona kwesithombe noMento uPerry Ellis yamenywa ukuba iholele iqembu labadwebi enkampanini "uPerry Ellis", futhi lapha waphenduka ngokweqiniso, ehlwanyela kakhulu ngokwakhe. Ukuqoqwa kwezingubo ze-grunge, zenzelwe lo mkhiqizo, zenze umkhiqizo odumile.
UJacobs wayesondelene nohlaka lwendlu "uPerry Ellis", amandla wensizwa ayenele kwamanye amaphrojekthi. Umqambi wajoyina imizamo enomqambi wemfashini uRobert Duffy - I-Mira embalwa yaletha inkampani entsha ngokukhiqizwa kwezingubo "Jacobs Duffy Design Inc.".
Ngokunqoba ukuya ku-Oliympus yemfashini kusize kanye neqoqo ngaphansi kwegama elithi "Marc Jacobs ilebula", okwasekupheleni kwama-80s aletha umuntu empumeleko emangalisayo. Umkhiqizo waze wanikeza umklomelo woMkhandlu Wezemfashini YaseMelika - waba ngumklami omncane kunabo bonke abathola lo mklomelo. Ngo-1989, amaJacobs, kanye noDuffy, aqala ukugqoka izintokazi, athathe imihlahlandlela eTristan Russo, inkampani eyayikhethekile ekwakheni amaqoqo abesifazane.
Futhi ngemuva kweminyaka emihlanu, uMark wajabula ngezinto ezintsha zemfashini nabesilisa, ubanikeze umugqa ohlukile wezingubo. Kodwa-ke, okokuqala, umklami wasolwa ngokubumbana - kulokhu kuqoqwa kwevintage ka-Oscar de La's Requrt umdwebo wobuciko bakhe bokuqala. Kodwa-ke, abagxeki bezemfashini baphukile ku-fluff kanye nokusolwa kothuli kwe-bison design, ekhomba ukuthi ama-jacobs awakopisi, kepha ahlole ngempumelelo imininingwane.
Ukukhuphuka ngomsebenzi wesinyathelo esingenhla kwasiza ukujwayelana nomnikazi weLvmh Bernarr Arno, owaphakamisa uSihlalo womkhiqizo womqondisi kanye nomqambi wenkampani yenkampani yaseFrance uLouis Vuitton. UCouturier wavuma ngenjabulo, washiya ikhanda lakhe.
Lapho kudala amaqoqo ezikhwama, i-master esebenzisana nabaculi uTakasi Murakami, uRichard Prince kanye noRaper Kanye West. Inzuzo yendlu yemfashini "ULouis Witton" wakhula ngokushesha, kakade ngonyaka wokuqala womsebenzi kaJacobs kathathu. Impumelelo ebalulekile yomkhiqizo njengomqambi wesikhwama kwakuyimodeli yesikhwama se-Marc Jacobs Stam, eyasungulwa ngqo i-Mannequin yaseCanada kanye nemodeli yemfashini uJessica Stam.
Eminyakeni yokubambisana noLouis Vuitton, umklami wemfashini waqhubeka ukondla amaqoqo amasha wezingubo hhayi kuphela. Ngo-2006, wayesenawo ama-Boutiques angama-60, akhiphe izinyawo ezimbalwa zemimoya, izibuko, izicathulo kanye nomugqa owodwa wamahora ngaphansi komkhiqizo waKhe. Imibono yomqambi kwesinye isikhathi yayigqoka uhlobo lwamasheya. Ngakho-ke, uphawu oluphindwe kabili lwadala uchungechunge lwama-T-shirts, lapho kwakuthinteka khona abantu abanqunu - ukusekela ukulawulwa kwe-melanoma.
I-couture enethalente yavela ngentokozo ngama-oda wenkanyezi yefilimu nethelevishini. Phakathi kwamakhasimende ka-Anna Wintur, uChrist Tarlington, uNaomi Campbell nabanye. Ama-Jacobs athunga amasudi eParis Ballet "Amoveo".
Akudingidwa uhlobo lwe-jacobs futhi ngaphandle kwamahlazo. Ngo-2008, umklami wemfashini bekufanele abe nesibopho sesikhafu, ukwakheka kwakhe ahlongoza emsebenzini weSweden, izinkanyezi zokugubha iminyaka engu-5 yeGosta Olofsson. I-plagiarism yavezwa ngengozi - oyedwa intatheli yaseMelika, omagazini abadala abanesihloko, wabona ukuthi ukudalwa kwamaJacobs kuyikhophi ngqo yomqambi wemfashini waseSweden. Kwakudingeka ukukhokha isinxephezelo izihlobo ze-Olofsson.
Lapho-ke enye i-Scandal ilandele: Izintatheli zifunde ukuthi esikhundleni sokufakwa kwezingubo zomklami wemfashini wezemfashini, uvolo wenja ye-raccoon yaseChina. Ngo-2013, uMark washiya uLouis Vuitton ngokuthumela wonke amandla namathuba okuthuthukisa izinhlobo zakhe.
Impilo yomuntu siqu
Umqambi Wokuphila Kwakho Akakufihli, kunalokho, ngazo zonke izindlela ezikhangisi. UMark ungobungqingili, olwela ubuhlakani bamalungelo abamele abamele ubuncane bezocansi. Kubandakanya ngosizo lwezobuciko: Ngo-2009, indoda yadala umugqa wama-T-shirts ukuhlonipha ukuzothwalelwa komshado wobungqingili eMelika. Umqambi wentwasahlobo ofanayo washada obala othandekayo wakhe ogama lakhe linguLorenzo Marten.
Kodwa-ke, inyunyana yayintekenteke - ngemuva konyaka osuvele waqhekeka. Lapho-ke uJacobs waqashelwa ngokuqondene ne-Harry Louis ethile, kepha isimo sengqondo sesimo sengqondo asifikanga e-altare.
UJacobs unothando lotshwala ne-cocaine. Ekuqaleni kuka-2000s, kwaze kwadingeka ukuthi ziye ekuvuseleleni kabusha emtholampilo - uMarku ulahlekelwe ukwazi emsebenzini, ehlazise ngezingazi.
Okuncamelayo ngesitayela sezingubo ezivela kumqambi wemfashini kuguqulwe ngokuhamba kweminyaka. Okokuqala, uMark Jacobs ubukeka njenge-couture emfashini, wagqoka amabhulukwe abanzi namahembe amaningi ekuzameni ukufihla isisindo esingeziwe. Kepha ngo-2006 washaya ezemidlalo, lesi sibalo saphenduka umsubathi, unhlangothi lwama-tattoos avele emzimbeni, nasendlebeni endlebeni yedayimane. Ukuhlolwa kwamamaki ngemfashini, imvamisa iziketi nokugqoka kukhishwe.
Maka ama-Jacobs manje
Manje uMarc Jacobs ufaka izinkomba ezintathu - uMarc nguMarc Jacobs Work Brand, "uMarc omncane wezingane" kanye nomugqa we-pretta-a-port "Iqoqo leMarc Jacobs". Uhlobo lunewebhusayithi esemthethweni lapho noma yiziphi izengezo zemfashini zingayalwa. I-Fashion House namakhandlela "Marc Jacobs" nawo aneqoqo lezitolo enama-aromas, izesekeli kanye nezinsizakalo zokuhlobisa.
UMarku uhlala edume ngokweqile, yize ukugxekwa kusola i-Couturier ekubuyeni kokuqala kwangaphambi kokuqala nasemaqoqweni lezezimali ngokweqile, izembatho ezivela lapho zingagqokwa empilweni yansuku zonke.
Ekuqaleni kuka-2018, ababezindaba bakhuluma ngokungezwa kwebhizinisi loMklami WaseMelika, baqala ukuvala izitolo zaKhe yonke indawo. Kodwa-ke, ama-jacob awalokothi ayeke ukubamba iqhaza kwimibukiso yemfashini. Iqoqo le-Fall-Winter ligcwele iminsalo, isikhumba, imininingwane emikhulu nemincane, ihlukaniswa umugqa obanzi wamahlombe kanye namavolumu. Okwehlobo entwasahlobo, umdwebi waphakamisa ama-BAA aqhakazile, ama-turbans, i-balashes yase-Afrika ekhanyayo kanye nezingubo zokugqoka zesitayela se-hollywood retro-chic.
Ukuhlola umbuso
Kuze kube ngu-2014, ukuthengiswa kwezitolo zeMarc Jacobs kwaletha u- $ 650 wezigidi kumnikazi wezigidi ezingama- $ 650. Kepha inkinga yezomnotho yenziwe izinguquko, futhi namuhla imali engenayo yehle ibe ngama- $ 300 wezigidi.