I-Biograge
Emhlabeni wemfashini ephezulu kunzima ukumangaza, kepha uJohn Galliano waze waphumelela iphuzu elithile. I-King Kitgan ne-Avant-Garde, i-Master of Phantaja, "Ukuvuselela kabusha" kwendlu yemfashini "Christian Dior" - kuyingxenye encane kuphela yama-Epithets anikezwa umklami wemfashini abalandeli nabazondayo abalandeli kanye nabazondayo. Ngo-2011, kwanezelwa "usizi" usizi "futhi" i-willn nkosi "yengezwa kubo, lapho i-anti-Semitic Scandal iwela zonke izimpumelelo ezikhazimulayo zeKuturier.Ubuntwana nentsha
UJohn Galliano wazalwa ngoNovemba 1960. Ubaba uJuan wayeqhamuka eNgilandi, kodwa wayenezimpande zase-Italy, wasebenza njengepulangwe. Unina ka-Anita - iSpanishi, wahola indlu futhi, ngokusho komqambi wemfashini, wamfundisa nodadewethu ababili ukuba badanse iFlamenco etafuleni lasekhishini futhi bagqoke, noma ngabe bekudingeka nje ukuphuma ngaphandle.
Njengoba lo mndeni uhlala eGibraltar, eduze naseSpain, igama labazali bakaNdodana banikeze okufanelekile - uJuan Carlos Antonio Gleen Gleen. Mhlawumbe ingxube enjalo egcwele igazi, izinhlamvu namasiko kwabonakaliswa esikhathini esizayo othandweni lokukhuphuka nokweqile.
Esikhathini esineminyaka eyisithupha, uJohn wathuthela eLondon, ngemuva kokuthi isikole sangena ekolishi elihlonishwayo laseSt. Martin ukutadisha ubuciko nokwakheka, futhi ngokushesha bathola isimo somfundi wobuciko obuhle kakhulu nophumelelayo.
Ngasikhathi sinye nokufunda, uGalliano wasebenza eNational Theatre, lapho izingubo zomlando zazinentshisekelo. Ukuvezwa kwalesosikhathi uMklami wesikhathi esizayo wathululela emsebenzini wokuthweswa iziqu "emangalisayo", okubandakanya izingubo eziyisishiyagalombili kuphela, kodwa zakhiqiza ezine.
Iqoqo lathenge isitolo sezingubo ze-Brawn-Garde's avant-Garde, wavakashelwa ngumculi odumile waseMelika uDiana Ross futhi wathenga i-very yomqambi wemfashini osemusha, ngaleyo ndlela wabeka ukuqala kokuqashelwa kokuqashelwa kukaJohane.
UGalliano wenqabe ukunikezwa ukuhambisa eNew York futhi waqhubeka nokujabulisa umphakathi waseLondon ngokubukeka okusha kwemfashini. Phakathi kokunye, kwabonakala ukudala uhlobo lwazo lomkhiqizo. ELondon Kings Road, u-Atelier washeshe wavula, kwathi ngo-1987, uJohn wabizwa ngokuthi umklami omuhle kakhulu weGreat Britain.
Kodwa-ke, zonke lezi ziketi namajakethi azange zinikeze injabulo ngokwezezimali, futhi uJohn unquma ukuthuthela enhlokodolobha yemfashini - iParis. Umbono wavezwa ukuthi umklami wemfashini yena uzosolwa ngeqiniso lokuthi cishe lalizocishe libe ngaphezulu kokuqothuka, ngoba lithanda izikhungo zokuzijabulisa ukuxazulula izingqinamba zenhlangano.
Umsiko
I-biography yokudala kaJohn Galiano, njengoba kufanele ibe sesiko lobuhlakani, yaqala ngobunzima. EParis, umklami wahlunga igumbi futhi waqasha isikwele efektri esenzelwe umuntu ofunda naye kwangaphambili. Konke kuguqukile ngemuva kokwazi nesihleli-in-induna ye-Anmerican Vogue Anna Wints.
Intatheli yabona ubuhlanya bombala, ukwakheka kanye nemihlobiso yobuhlakani. Ngokwezincomo zakhe, iLioness yezwe lasePortugal Sao Slabberge yanikeza inkosi yakhe ngokukhombisa i-mod, lapho uGalliano aletha khona iqoqo elinokunethezeka elithi "ama-Angels awile".
ECouturier, osomabhizinisi abavela emfashinini baphawulwa: Ngo-1995, umnikazi weLvmm Mot Hennessy Corporation - Louis Vuitton.a. UBernard Arno uqoke uJohn eposini lomqondisi wezendlu e-WyWychy. Kwathi sekuyiminyaka emibili, umklami wemfashini wayenesibopho sokukhishwa kwamaqoqo e-Fashion House Balenciaga.
Ngo-1996, ihora elinenkanyezi likaGaljano - umklami walibhekelwa yi-Dior Dior, eshintsha i-Italian Dzhanfranco Italian. Iqoqo lokuqala le- "ama-Afrika" laba umuzwa ezweni lezemfashini. Isitayela sikaChristian Dior sihlale sihlotshaniswa nobuntu besifazane kanye ne-silhouette yomnsalo omusha, futhi uJohn wethule emphakathini wamamodeli axoshwe ngaphansi kwabamele izizwe zakudala. I-Kuturier yathola ithuba lokudala ngaphandle kwemikhawulo ezintweni zokwakha kanye nezezimali.
Ngaphansi kobuholi bakhe, inani lemikhiqizo yobuKristu yokuthenga iDior yandise kayishumi. Abasebenzi be-Fashion House Galliano bafaka ukuqonda ukuthi ukuhamba kocwaningo kuyimfanelo edingekayo yobuciko.
Iqoqo likaJohane lihlukile ngoba zinikezelwe iqhawe elithile - amaBrooks aseLouise, uRudolf Nuriev, uLucretia Borgia, Scarlett O'hare. Noma ubanikela amagama akhulumelayo, okungeke akhohlwe, "Ukuphunyuka kwenkosazana encane yeLucretia evela eBolshevik Russia", "Afghanistan wenqaba imibono yasentshonalanga."
Iqoqo lasehlobo lesizini 2001-2002 lalibizwa ngokuphelele ngokubuzwa, izikhindi kanye nama-vampires e-gamut yombala nezinye izinsimbi. Ngaphezu koboya, i-velvet, ukufekethiswa, i-latex, ama-collars, izimbali zokufakelwa ezinhlanganisweni ezingenakucatshangwa zisetshenziswa e-Galliano ye-argenal. Izintshisakalo ze-couture zazingagcini ezingutsheni, izimbotshana kanye nezingubo zokugqoka zidonsa i-couture, ngonyaka ka-2008, uJohn wakhipha iqoqo lezingane lokuqala namakha uJohn Galliano.
Ukuhola inkampani edumile, uGalliano wanquma ukuthi kungaba kuhle ukuba yinhle kakhulu, futhi wenqaba amasudi asendulo ngethayi. UMel Ollberg weza ukutakula, manje esebhekele isitayela somculi uRihanna. UMalan kwadingeka afune izingubo zomqondisi we-DIOR eVintage Boutiques, bese umane amhlekise - ukuze ziphinde ziphinde ziphinde zithole uviniga, ukubamba.
Njengoba abasizi be-stylist be batshelwa, isihloko esihlukile - izicathulo zikaJohane. Hhayi nje ukuthi wayenosayizi osayizi abambalwa kakhulu kunalokho obekudingeka, ngakho-ke izicathulo zihlehla emanzini abilayo futhi zikhishwe emgwaqweni ukuze izimoto zibaxoshe.
Futhi umqambi wobulukhuni obunjalo walahleka lapho ngo-2011, ehlala esimweni esidakiwe, wavuma izitatimende ezilwa namaSemite ezivakashini eParisian Cafe. UChristian Dior S.A., owayenezingxobo ezingama-91% kuJohn Galliano, waxosha uGalliano kuwo womabili imisebenzi. Kuwebhusayithi esemthethweni, ukuxoshwa komuntu wokuqala kubizwa ngokuhamba. Le post yaya kumsizi wangaphambili weBill Design Gaiten.
"Kuhlobene nomlotha" uJohane kuphela ngonyaka we-2013, lapho ngosizo lwe-Anna Winters uthole umqondisi wokudala we-Oscardula Renta. Kodwa-ke, ngemuva konyaka, uGalliano wafuna ukwanda kwenani lenkontileka. Ngokusho komshini waseMelika, ubuholi bomkhiqizo bebengafuni ukubhekana neqembu likaJohn.
Ngo-2014, iBritish Kuturier yathatha isicelo sokuba ngumqondisi wobuciko wenethiwekhi yezitolo ze-Permenery-cosmetic. NgoJanuwari 2015, uGalliano wethule iqoqo elisha elenzelwe uBrand Belgian Brand Maison Martin Margiela. Izingubo ezenziwe nguMklami esizeni esisha somsebenzi, njengoba kufakazelwa yisithombe ku- "Instagram", akusekho lutho oluncane kunangaphambili. Ukubuya kwale nkazimulo yangaphambili kwathathwa njengokudalulwa ukudala ingubo yomshado kaKate Moss:
"Kungisindisile, kwaba ukuvuselelwa kwami kokudala. UKate wagxilisa ethembeni, futhi nganquma ukufakazela ukuthi, naphezu kwalokho ebengikhuluma ngakho, ngihlala nami. "Impilo yomuntu siqu
Sekuphele iminyaka eyi-12 ngaphambi kwaJohn Galiano kungumngane osondelene noMkhuba Womuntu siqu u-Alexis Rocher. Phambi kwakhe, umsunguli wemfashini wesibili "umsunguli wemfashini wawukazakwabo uJohn Flett, owashona ngo-1991 ekuhlaselweni yinhliziyo.
Umqambi usesimweni esihle somzimba ngenxa yamakilasi ajwayelekile nomqeqeshi wakho. Ama-aerobics ajulile, welule, ukusunduza-ups kanye nokugijimisa ogwini lwe-seine kufakiwe e-galiano's Sports Complex.
UJohn Galliano Manje
Amamodeli weSizini Autumn Winter 2017-2018 aphefumulelwe umnyuziyamu waseGaliano - uMarquis Louise Kazaki. Isisekelo seqoqo kwakukhona amajazi kanye nezingubo zokugqoka ezinokusikwa okuphelele kanye ne-lapto yeshashalazi. E-Destant 1988, yize iqiniso lokuthi uBeather wase-Italy wafa ngesigamu seminyaka ngaphambili, isithombe sakhe saphefumulela uJohn ukudala i-Couture yemfashini yasentwasahlobo kanye nokukhishwa kwemimoya yaseCasati.
Nge-menswear yesethulo ngeviki lefashini eParis, uGalliano wanikeza i-Beige-Blue Palette ne-Orange Palette. Ukomela umlomo ugcinwe: Ama-Atlas nama-Pink Roses asetshenziswa kumasudi wamadoda.
Ukuhlola umbuso
Imicimbi ka-2011, kunjalo, yathinta uJohn Galiano ngayo yonke imiqondo, eshaya futhi esikhwameni. Kodwa-ke, imininingwane ethembekile, umklami ongakanani olahlekile lapho exoshwa emhlabeni wemfashini, cha. Ngakho-ke, ngokusho kwe- thefamouspeople.com, kusukela ngoMashi 2017, izwe laseGalliano lalinganiselwa ku- $ 32 million.