I-Biograge
Vivien Westwood - Owesifazane onomlando wayo ufanele ukukhishwa kwefilimu. Impilo kaWivien iyindaba yothisha ojwayelekile owaguqula imfashini yakhe ukuthanda kwakhe, wawungesabi ukushintsha ngokuphelele isiphetho futhi wenze into ayithandayo. Kamuva, uWesterwood wakhulunywa ngawo womabili ama-punk nase-kitch, isishayamthetho se-mod nerejista yakuPhakade, kepha ekuqaleni kwale ndlela kwakukhona kuphela ukholo ngokwabo nokomela ngobuqotho ubuciko.Ubuntwana nentsha
I-Vivien Isabel Suire - Igama elinjalo umklami wemfashini wesikhathi esizayo atholakele lapho azalwa - avele kwi-English County Cheshire. Ngiseyingane, imvelo yokudala ayikhombisi lutho: Le ntombazane yaya esikoleni esijwayelekile, lapho yayithathwa njengomfundi okhuthele. Konke kwashintsha ngo-1958, lapho umndeni wakwamusha uthuthela eLondon.
Ngaleso sikhathi, uVivien wayesephothule esikoleni futhi wema ngaphambi kokukhetha enye indlela. Ebusheni bakhe, impilo yedolobha elikhulu yayikhuluma ikhanda layo, futhi le ntokazi yanquma ukudala ubuciko, ukubhalisa esikoleni sobuciko.
Ngeshwa, isikhathi saphenduka asifanele: Umndeni kaVivien wahlala kabi, futhi intombazane yashada, futhi kwadingeka ukuthi icabange ngokuthola imali njalo. Ngakho-ke isishayamthetho esizayo semfashini ye-Art School sakwesobunxele sangena ekolishi le-pedagogical ukuthola umsebenzi "wasemhlabeni". Eminyakeni embalwa kamuva, uMklami wesikhathi esizayo wayesesebenze njengothisha wamakilasi amabanga aphansi, kepha imidwebo yaqhubeka nokudweba futhi ngithungathe izingubo.
Kokunye izingxoxo, uVivien waqashelwa ukuthi ekugcineni wanquma ukuba ngumqambi ngemuva komshado wokuqala: Abekho imali yengubo yemfashini, futhi yena, njengayo yonke intombazane, wayefuna ukugqoka okuthile okukhethekile ngalolo suku. Ngakho-ke umakoti uqobo wacabanga ngentambo futhi wathunga ingubo yakhe yomshado.
Ithuba elilandelayo eligcine ukusunduza ekugcineni esinqumweni esibaluleke kakhulu empilweni kwakuwukujwayelana noMalcolm Maclaren - umculi, umkhiqizi kanye nokukhuthazeka kwe-pistols colk band. Le ndoda yaphefumulelwa nguVivien, ukuthi wanquma ukushiya isikole futhi avule eyakhe ibhizinisi.
Umsebenzi kanye nokwakhiwa
Ngo-1971, indawo yokuhlangana ehlanganayo kaWestudid noMalcolm Mclaren bavula. Isitolo sabizwa ukuthi sidumaze. Leli gama liphendulwa ukuthi lizenzelwa yizingubo ezanikezwa abathengi: okuvukelayo, okungelona okujwayelekile, ukuphanga - babuze ngokunembile ukuqondiswa kwesiko lamatshe esiko lalesosikhathi.Kodwa-ke, i-vivienne ekhona ekhona yabonakala ingenele, futhi kakade ngo-1974 igama le-boutique lashintsha ukuya ocansini, futhi isitayela sezingubo saba uFrank.
Ngaleso sikhashana, kwaqala ukwakheka kwepunt ngezingubo - ngenxa yezisekelo ezazibekwe nguNestoud.
Izimfanelo ezingenakuqhathaniswa zalesi sitayela ziseTatex nesikhumba, ukufakwa kwensimbi kanye nama-spikes abukhali okuhlobisa, ukwakheka okukhanyayo nezitayela zezinwele ezingajwayelekile. Ngaphezu kwalokho, iVivien ibingesabi ukusebenzisa izakhi zezimpawu ze-BDSM kanye nobubanzi bezitolo zobulili. Ngesikhathi sako, la maqoqo wezingubo nezinye izinsimbi kwaphenduka isibindi nokuvusa inkanuko.
Intshisekelo ezingubo ezinjalo yanda, kepha ukuthandwa kwangempela kweWestwood kwaletha ukubonakala kweqembu le-Sex Pistols. Umqambi waqala ukwakhiwa kwezithombe zesiteji zamalungu eqembu, kwathi ngemuva kwesikhathi abalandeli 'bakwa-Sex Pistols' babefuna ukugqoka izingubo ezifanayo nezithombe zabo.
Ngeshwa, iqembu le-Cultup Punk liwa (indawo yokugcina emsebenzini wabaculi kwakuwukufa kwe-solist sid Vishez). Ekuqaleni kweminyaka yo-1980, isitolo sashintsha igama elisekupheleni komhlaba, futhi uVivienne uqobo wabhalisela ngokusemthethweni uhlobo lwakhe lweVivienne Westwood Brand. Lokhu bekuyisiqalo senkathi entsha emsebenzini womqambi wemfashini.
Manje imfashini yaseNtshonalanga yeWestwood enentshisekelo. Kwindlela esele ejwayelekile evusa inkanuko, umklami wadonsa isiko lemfashini ephezulu, adale okulula, okunethezekile futhi ngasikhathi sinye izingubo ezingezona ezijwayelekile. IVivien ikwazile ukwethula imfashini emaphaketheni amakhulu, kanye "ne-" Drawn "ama-elbows kanye namadolo. Izingubo, ekuqaleni nje, zibukeka zihlekisayo ne-Alaepod, zingabonakala kungekudala kubo bonke ama-fashionista elondon.
Kodwa-ke, leli ngaseWestwood elivelele libe yinto encane: ngeqoqo elilandelayo, umklami waya eParis nezinye izihloko zaseYurophu, ekhombisa amasu amasha kanye nemfashini emangazayo. Isitayela sakamuva, esithuthukiswa ngaleso sikhathi, sizokuqamba igama elithi "ukunethezeka kwama-rags kanye nama-sweats anwetshiwe." Noma kunjalo, imithungo enolaka ngamabomu, izimbobo, isichibi neziqhakaza kanye nokuqhakaza kwasheshe kwathandwa.
Enye into ehlukile yama-vivie amamodeli ukusetshenziswa kwemininingwane ekhanyayo futhi engalindelekile ngezingubo ezivamile, izingubo zakusihlwa kanye nemihlobiso. Umqambi ubengesabi izisusa zobuzwe: amaphethini wezithombe, izimpaphe zokuhlobisa, ubuhlalu kanye nezingxenye zokhuni.
Ngawo-1990s no-1991, uWesterwood wanikezwa isihloko somqambi omuhle kakhulu wonyaka ngokusho koMkhandlu Wezemfashini waseBrithani. Ngaleso sikhathi esifanayo, umklami wemfashini waba nguprofesa weVienna Academy of Art - futhi lokhu kubhekwa ukuthi imfundo yobuciko beVivieen ayikaze itholakale.
Amamodeli wezingubo, athuthukiswe ngumqambi, aphefumulelwe ukwamukelwa kwawo, uJohn Galliano no-Alexander McQueen. Awekho amakhasimende angaziwa kahle amaklayenti we-Fashion House Vivienne Westwood: Umculi uGwen Stephanie kanye ne-Model Naomi Campbell, Rock-Kumir Mick Jagger kanye ne-Japanese Star Nakasim Mika - Uhlu Osaziwayo - Uhlu Olusabalalayo lungaqhubeka ngokungenamkhawulo. Futhi i-heroine kaSara Jessica Parker - uCarrie Bradshow - kwifilimu eligcwele ubude "ngocansi edolobheni elikhulu" avele egqoke umshado ovela eVivien.
Ngo-2016, uhlobo lomkhiqizo lwangena esikhundleni segama. Manje icala lempilo yasentshonalanga laziwa ngokuthi u-Andreas Kronthaler weVivienne Westwood. Umklami Wendoda Engumklami u-Andreas Crontar waba umlingani othembekile kanye nombhali ophelele wamaqoqo amasha.
Ngo-2018, uVivieen ukhiphe umkhombibisholo nge-burberry brand. Lokhu kusebenzisana sekube ngenye yamaqoqo alindelwe kakhulu alo nyaka. Ngokusho kwabaqambi, ngaphezu kothando lwemfashini, bagqugquzela isifiso esijwayelekile sokuxhasa isifiso esijwayelekile sokuxhasa inhlangano engenzi nzuzo, okulwela ukusindiswa kwehlathi lemvula. Ngakho-ke ingxenye yemali etholwe ngokuthengiswa kwamamodeli amasha yanikelwa ngenxa yokupha.
Ukucibishwa
I-Westwood yipolitiki edumile yezepolitiki kanye ne-eco -activist, esebenzisa i-podium ukuveza imibono yayo. Ngo-2005, i-Vivien njengoba umbhikisho ngokumelene nenqubomgomo yokufuduka yase-UK idale i-T-shirt ngombhalo othi "Angisiyena amaphekula, angingibombi."
Futhi, umklami wabamba iqhaza emkhankasweni wokuhlasela kwenuzi wenuzi, wasekela umbono wenkululeko yeScotland, ebhikisha ngokukhishwa kwamafutha e-shale.
IVivien ingumfino kanye nommeli wamalungelo ezilwane. Wenqabile ukwandisa ibhizinisi lakhe futhi eVivienne Westwood FW 2019/20 show obizwa nge-Fans ukuthola izingubo ezincane futhi angangcolisi iplanethi. Lo mbono awumusha ngeWestwood - emuva ngo-2013 ubengenamahloni ukwenza amazwi ngamabomu eCambridge Kate Middleton ukuze futhi athenge izingubo eziningi.
Ngokusobala kwakuyinto esekela uMsunguli weWikileaks Julian assange ngoJulayi 2020: Eduze kwesakhiwo senkantolo yobugebengu eLondon Vivien ecaleni eliphuzi, elivalelwe ikheji elikhulu lenyoni. Ngokusho kweWestwood, i-Assange iyiqhawe elitshele umhlaba ngamacala omhlaba wezwe.
Impilo yomuntu siqu
Impilo yomuntu siqu yomqambi ibingaqhakazi kakhulu kunomsebenzi. Indoda yokuqala yomqambi wemfashini yaba yi-DEDWOOD. Emshadweni, kwazalwa izingane ezimbili - indodana kaBenjamin nendodakazi yakhe yavuka. UMallolm Mclaren waba yi-chisel yesibili, umgqugquzeli wakhe, ahlangana futhi abe nomsunguli wesitolo sokuqala semfashini. UVivienus wanika uMalcolm indodana uJosefa.Womabili la madodana uWestwood afunda ezinyathelweni zikamama futhi abopha impilo ngemfashini nezobuciko. I-Senior Ben yaba ngumthwebuli wezithombe ezi-erotic. UJoseph wasungula eyakhe i-Agent Yakhe yemfashini i-Agent, ekhazinyuliswe ngamamodeli anempilo kanokusho angenazimo zangaphansi, kanye nama-aromas amnandi kanye nemihlobiso.
Ngemuva kokuhlukana, wivien nge-mclaren ephephandabeni isikhathi esithile wakhulunywa ngamanoveli amaningana omqambi wemfashini. Futhi ngokushesha uWestwood umemezele umshado no-Andreas Cronter, ummeli wesikhathi eside nomfundi wangaphambili. Naphezu komehluko eminyakeni yobudala (iminyaka engaphezu kwengu-20), lobu budlelwano babuqinile.
Ezindabeni zokuphila kanye nobuciko bomqambi, abalandeli balandela ikhasi le-Westwood ku- "Instagram", lapho abeka khona izithombe ezintsha ezivela kumibukiso. Ngaphezu kwalokho, isishayamthetho sabathentu sikhiphe izincwadi eziningana lapho imininingwane yendlela yabo eya phezulu kwenkazimulo yabiwe khona.
Vivien Wenyusu manje
Manje uhlobo lwe-Westwood luyaqhubeka nokukhipha indlela yokuthuthuka kwemfashini futhi luhlala luthandwa kakhulu emhlabeni - inani le-Vivienne Westwood Boutiques lidlula 500. Ngaphansi kwalolu hlobo, kwabesifazane abasebasha, amadoda, ajwayelekile futhi Izinto ezikhethekile ze-wardmade yezandla. Ngo-2021, isimo soMklami sidlula ama- $ 50 wezigidi.
Ngo-Ephreli 8, umklami wemfashini wagubha iminyaka engama-80. Ngokuhlonipha isikhumbuzo seVivieen, kanye nenhlangano, ama-Circa akhiphe ifilimu elifushane awathengi ibhomu, eliboniswe esikrinini esikhulu kunazo zonke eYurophu - ePiccadilly Square eLondon. Ethekeni, uWestwood wacula iculo ngaphandle kwakho kusuka kumculo "wami omuhlekazi" watshela ngezinkinga zemvelo.