I-Biograge
UHelmut Newton ungumthwebuli wezithombe waseJalimane - wase-Australia owenza uguquko emhlabeni wezithombe ezifashisayo, umsebenzi wakhe wabuzwa izitayela. Wenza impumelelo enkulu, wamisa umsebenzi "eVogue" yaseFrance, lapho awufeza khona umsebenzi wakhe omuhle kakhulu futhi wathola udumo nodumo lwamanye amazwe.
Isitayela saso sibonakaliswa ngezithombe ezinesibindi, ezibonakalayo futhi ezibonakalayo ezijabulisayo zabesifazane abahlungwa ngobuhle, ngemininingwane yezobuchwepheshe engenaphutha. Ukuba ngumboni, uNewton wayephambi kwesikhathi sakhe, futhi umsebenzi wakhe namuhla uthola ukuqashelwa okwengeziwe kunakuko empilweni yakhe yonke.
Ubuntwana nentsha
UHelmut Newton wazalwa ngo-Okthoba 31, 1920 ngaphansi kwegama likaHelmut Neustter emndenini kaClara kanye noMax Moyestiesteers eBerlin. Uyise, umJuda, wayengumnikazi ocebile wefekthri ekhiqiza amafekthri. UHelmut wafunda eHeinrich-Faychki-Realigimnasium nasesikoleni saseMelika eBerlin, lapho axoshwa khona ngenxa yezifundo ezimbi.
Intshisekelo kaHelmut ezithombeni yaqala eneminyaka eyi-12 lapho ithola igumbi lakhe lokuqala. Ngalesi sikhathi, umfana waxoshwa esikoleni ngenxa yokusebenza kabi, futhi esikhundleni sokuvuselelwa kokufunda, wathola umsebenzi njengomthwebuli wezithombe waseJalimane odumile u-Elson Simon, waziwa nangokuthi u-Iva. Kepha ukubambisana no-Elsa kuthatha iminyaka emi-2 kuphela, njengoba umndeni wakhe kufanele uhambe eJalimane ngenxa yomkhankaso waseJalimane wokulwa namaJuda.
Ngemuva kokuqaliswa kwemithetho yeNuremberg, uMax Noyachtester kwadingeka alahle ifa lefektri, kwathi ngo-1938 wathunyelwa ekamu lokuhlushwa.
Ngawo lowo nyaka, abazali bakaNewton babalekela eSouth America, bakwazile ukuhlela uhambo lwendodana eya eChina. Kodwa-ke, lo mfo wakhetha ukuba kude nomkhumbi eSingapore. Lapho, iHelmut yathola umsebenzi womfanekiso wephephandaba "amahlandla omfula", kusukela lapho wamxosha khona amasonto amabili. Wayenobuhlobo noJozett, ocebile ngowesifazane osekhulile owamkhokhela kahle. Ubuye futhi wasungula eyakhe i-Photo Studio "Marquis", kepha akaphumelelanga naye.
Ngo-1940, iziphathimandla zaseBrithani ezibizwa ngokuthi isigwebo seminyaka engama-20 "zavela kubantu bakwamanye amazwe" futhi bathumela ekamu e-Australia. Ngemuva kokuhlala iminyaka emi-2, waqashwa kabusha ebuthweni lase-Australia njengomshayeli weloli, lapho akhonza khona kuze kube sekupheleni kweMpi Yezwe II.
Ngemuva kokuxoshwa ebuthweni lempi, wazuza ubuzwe base-Australia futhi washintsha isibongo sakhe nge-Neustter to Newton. Ngo-1946, isigwebo se-Helmut sakha isitudiyo sezithombe eMelbourne siyosebenza ezithombeni zemfashini naseshashalazini.
Art Photo
Ngo-1953, uNewton wahlela umbukiso ohlanganyelwe obizwa ngokuthi "ama-goggles amasha ezithombeni" nomunye wababaleki baseJalimane futhi umthwebuli wezithombe uWolfgang SIVOM. Ngawo lowo nyaka, waqala ukubambisana isikhathi eside nomJuda waseJalimane uHenry Talbot.
Ngemuva kokuthola idumela lomthwebuli wezithombe, umsebenzi wakhe wafakwa ekushicilelweni kwalo magazini "Vogue" ngo-1956. Ngokushesha, uHelmut waphetha inkontileka yaminyaka yonke nge "vogue" wathuthela eLondon, kodwa wahamba inyanga eyodwa ngaphambi kwesikhathi okuvunyelwene ngaso. Kamuva, uNewton wathuthela eParis, lapho asebenzela khona omagazini baseFrance nabaseJalimane.
Ngokushesha umthwebuli wezithombe wabuyela eMelbourne, kodwa ngo-1961 washiya futhi uParis, naphezu kokusayinwa kwenkontileka ne "vogue" yase-Australia. EParis, uthole umsebenzi endlini eshicilela yaseFrance yephephabhuku ethandwayo. Ubunikazi bakhe obuhlanganisiwe buhlanganisa izithombe ezivusa inkanuko, kepha ezinhle kakhulu zabesifazane. Engxoxweni yakhe, owesilisa waphawula kaningi ukuthi wayenesifiso sohlobo lwamandla - ezocansi, ezepolitiki kanye nezezimali.
Ngemuva kokuhlaselwa kwenhliziyo okubulalayo ngo-1971 eNew York, waqala ukudubula izithombe zobulili ezingasho lutho, okwakuyindalo yakhe ephikisanayo. Imisebenzi yakhe yawela izingqikithi ze-voyeurism, fetishism, ubungqingili kanye no-bodomasochism, abesifazane bakaNewton bathukuthelisa abanye izilaleli zabesifazane futhi banelise abanye. Eminye yemisebenzi edumile yalesosikhathi yayiyisithombe "Bergstrom ngenhla kweParis".
Izithombe zayo ezimnyama nezimhlophe zihlanganisa isithombe se-oruna isithombe sawo-1930s anezici zefilimu "entsha", ekhombisa amakhono okukhokhwa komkhokhi we-filmmaker.
Kuyo yonke le minyaka, iHelmut ibilokhu igxile kakhulu kwimfashini, e-erotica kanye ne-portrait, futhi lezi zigaba ezintathu zivame ukuxutshwa. Ngokubambisana nomthwalo we-GI noDeborah Lu, i-gerbeville Newton baba ngomunye wabathwebuli bezithombe abashintshe amehlo akhe kwimfashini yezithombe ezimfashini futhi basuka ezithombeni zendabuko.
Imidwebo yosaziwayo yaba yisici esandayo sobuciko bakaNewton. Futhi yize ekuqaleni wayithatha amamodeli kuphela, iminyaka eminingi kuphela, i-Master yandisa iphothifoliyo yakhe, kufaka phakathi inani elikhulu labantu - abaculi, abadlali, izinkomba, osopolitiki, izikhundla zezimboni.
E-lens yakhe, eqondiswe nguDavid Lynch ngebhande lakhe othandekayo u-Isabella Rosselini, Nobuhle base-Italiya uMonica Bellucci, umculi uDavid Bowie. Iningi lezinkanyezi lashicilelwa ngawo-1980s ekhasini le- "Vanity Fair".
Ngo-1975, uNewton wahlela umbukiso wayo wokuqala eParis. Ngonyaka olandelayo, washicilela incwadi yokuqala ethi "Abesifazane Abamhlophe."
I-albhamu eshicilelwe ye-albhamu "enkulu nude", yathola udumo olukhulu kunawo wonke. Uveze amamodeli asemanzini asemqoka ngaphandle kwe-studio, imvamisa emigwaqweni, eyayingeyona indinganiso yaleso sikhathi. Lolu chungechunge lugxile isimo sikaNewton njengomunye wabathwebuli bezithombe ezivelele kakhulu zesikhathi sazo. Lo nyaka, "i-vogue" ishicilele umsebenzi ophindwe kabili onesihloko esithi "baya", okwathengiswa endalini ngama- $ 662.
Ngo-1989, ifilimu elibhalwe phansi laseJalimane mayelana nomculi wezithombe "Helmut Newton: Izithombe eziphezulu".
Uhlobo lwe-biography ye-Creative yendoda yaba yincwadi ethi "Demo", ekhishwe ngo-1999. Umkhiqizo onesisindo esingamakhilogremu angama-30 futhi ubiza ama- $ 3 ayizinkulungwane. Equkethe yonke imisebenzi eyinhloko yomthwebuli wezithombe.
Eminyakeni engama-25 elandelayo, umthwebuli wezithombe wasebenza ngokuqinile futhi ngempumelelo, ukushicilela uchungechunge lwezincwadi nokwakha imibukiso engenakubalwa, okuhlaba umxhwele kakhulu kwawo kwakuwukugujwa okukhulu komnyuziyamu wakhe kanye ne-autobiography eBerlin. Lo mcimbi wenzeke ngonyaka ka-2000, lapho umculi wezithombe eneminyaka engama-80 ubudala.
Impilo yomuntu siqu
Ngo-1947, ukusebenza esitudiyo sakhe eMelbourne, eNewton kwahlangana noJan Brown, imodeli yase-Australia kanye nomlingisi. Bacishe bangene ebudlelwaneni futhi bashada ngonyaka olandelayo.
Kamuva, uJoon ngokwakhe waba ngumthwebuli wezithombe, wathatha izithombe zomyeni wakhe ngenkathi esebenza futhi wamsiza ngezincwadi zokubhala. Ngokusho konkosikazi kaNewton, wayehlala eqonda ukuthi kuzoba nothando lwesibili lomyeni wakhe ngemuva kwesithombe.
Lo mbhangqwana wawujabule empilweni yomuntu siqu yeminyaka engama-56, kuze kube sekufeni kweHelmut. Iqiniso elihehayo ukuthi izingane azizange zivele kule minyaka eminingi.
Ukushona
NgoJanuwari 23, 2004, umthwebuli wezithombe wangena engozini yemoto - imoto yakhe yashayisa odongeni lwehhotela laseChiteau Marmont eduze naseSansSt-Boulevard, lapho ahlala khona iminyaka eminingana.
Imbangela yokufa kweHouston eneminyaka engu-83 yaba ukuhlaselwa yinhliziyo. Ukufa kwenzeka ngehora ngemuva kwengozi. Uthuli lwakhe luhlala eBerlin.
Ukusebenza
- Ngo-1975 - "Nunqunu echibini"
- 1978 - "Umfelokazi"
- 1978 - "UGrace Jones"
- 1981 - "Iwindi eliphakeme"
- 1985 - "Amehlo Alala"
- 1985 - "AmaVikontes uPatricia"
- 1987 - "Owesifazane omhlophe"
- 1988 - "Jacuzzi"
- 1994 - "Berlin"
- 2001 - "Ikhalenda"