I-Biograge
Ifa le-Master of JuberA de Limshi yemfashini ephezulu alilona nje enkulu, ebaluleke futhi eyingqayizivele. Kwaba isampula yokunambitheka okungenakuqhathaniswa nokuhlaziywa kokuhlaziywa, okwakwazi ukuletha kuphela i-aristocrat yangempela kanye nomkhonzi wobuciko oshisekelayo. Umqambi wemfashini waphila impilo ende egcwele, eshiya indlu yemfashini edumile yambiza ngokuthi igama, kanye nezinto zenkolo nezisombululo ezisathuthukiswa kumaqoqo abaklami abasha abasha futhi sicela wonke umhlaba.Ubuntwana nentsha
UGmber James Marseille Taffen de zhivani wazalwa ngoFebhuwari 21, 1927 eBeauvais, eFrance. Abazali bemfashini yemfashini yesikhathi esizayo bashada othandweni olukhulu, umndeni wabo waba yimodeli evumelanayo yokuhlanganisa i-aristocracy kanye nesigaba esicebile.
Shumeka kusuka ezithombeni ezifuywayoUbaba uLucien Taffen de zhivani - inzalo yabakhi bakwaVenetian, indodana kaMarquis. Ngesikhathi sempi yezwe yokuqala, umshayeli wafundwa, walwa ngaphambili futhi yonke impilo yakhe emfushane yanikela kulo msebenzi wothando.
Umama Beatris Baden - Indodakazi yomculi waseFrance uJules Baden, owayengusomabhizinisi olandelanayo, ehlela ibhizinisi lokukhiqizwa kwama-tapestries. Umkhulu uBeatrice wadume ngesikhathi Painter Pierte Adolf Baden.
UBeatrice noLucien baba ngabazali bamadodana amabili: izibulo elibizwa ngokuthi uJean-Claude, omncane - uYuber. Ubaba u-de zhivasha akazange akhumbule, washona lapho kukhanya kwakunguSungile iminyaka emi-2. Ngokusho kwenye inguqulo, yafa lapho yenza umsebenzi wokundiza, ngakolunye uhlangothi, kusukela kubhubhane lomkhuhlane lwaseSpain, ligijimela ngaleso sikhathi eYurophu.
Ukuphakamisa amadodana kaBeatrice kwasiza umama uLucien - Margherit. Ugogo we-Okokuqala wethula okuncane okuhambile nge-Alitework, wavumela ithuna ukuba lidlale ngezindwangu zendwangu, ezazigcina kubhasikidi wokuthunga.
Ngo-1937, uBeatrice wayenenhlanhla namadodana embukisweni wendawo yonke yobuciko kanye nangochwepheshe eParis. Lapha izintshisakalo zabafana zahlukaniswa: UJean-Claude wadubula amasampula amasha okucabanga kobunjiniyela, kanti ama-shors awakwazanga ukuhlukana nendalo yamaCuturiers aseFrance - amamodeli acwengekile atholakala e-Elegance Pavilion.
Umbono wokuthi angadala nobuhle obunjalo, wahlala ngokuqinile ekhanda labafana. Waqala ukudweba, ukukhiqiza imigqa yomusa. Ngasikhathi sinye, i-fantasy yakhe engaphenduki yathuthuka, uYuber wagcwalisa izitayela ngemibono yakhe, waphupha ngokuthinta usilika ogelezayo nentambo enhle kunazo zonke.
Shumeka kusuka ezithombeni ezifuywayoKodwa-ke, la maphupho aphazamisekile amaphutha abi, asabekayo, angenathemba ngempi. Iminyaka yomndeni weWorld World of Zhivani yathola kanzima: Ugogo wafa, umama uthathwe kunoma yimuphi umsebenzi omnyama, futhi amadodana angasiza owesifazane. Iphupho lasiza i-Southwerry ayizange ihlukane futhi ikhuphuke. Kwathi ngo-1945, lapho nje iPharisi iphinda ibe nokuthula, yaya khona ngenhloso yokuba ngumfundi wemfashini.
Ngaleso sikhashana umndeni wavukela. "I-aristocrat ye-Noine yokuba nomsila" - lesi kwakuyisithembiso sabathandekayo babo ababona umgqugquzeli ophumelelayo. Ngaphansi kwengcindezi yabo, le nsizwa yangena eSikoleni Sikazwelonke sobuciko obuhle, futhi ngokufana nesifundo saqala ukuqonda izisekelo zamakhono amakhono.
Umsiko
Ebusheni bangaphambilini, uYuber wayengumfundi we-matrov kanjena njengoJacques Fat, uRobert Peig, uLucien Lelong. Ukuthokozela okukhethekile nokuhlonipha ukuhlonipha uDe Zhivyushi nakho, kusebenza ne-Elsa Skia Parelli, esesikhathi sobusha baba yisithombe sayo. Ngo-1947-1951, i-aristocrat young yaba ngumfundi wemodeli yemfashini kanye nomqondisi weBoutique yakhe enophawu.
Shumeka kusuka ezithombeni ezifuywayoUDe zhivovishi ushiya inganekwane ngo-1952 ngaleso sizathu esijabulisayo esasilindelwe isikhathi eside - uvula i-devidechy yemfashini yayo eyakhiwe, iba yi-couturier encane kakhulu yeParis. Umndeni uyasiza kulokhu, ukholelwa ethalenteni le-gum futhi ancike inhlokodolobha yomndeni. Kodwa-ke, kwakusenemali encane, ngakho-ke, ngokwesibonisi sokuqala, umklami wakhetha izindwangu ezingabizi kakhulu nokufakelwa, enze ukubheja ngokuqala kweCroy neLeson.
Futhi akazange alahlekelwe: I-raisin of the Blouse yeBettin, uDe zhivani abizwa ngokuhlonipha izicucu zakhe zokuqala uBettina Graziani - Intombazane ibiyisibonelo, futhi umsizi weCouturier. Imodeli ye-blouse enama-rufffles akhangayo, anqume imikhono, yaba yimikhono futhi anikeze umklami wemfashini namakhasimende okuqala, iningi labo lalishiye ngesitayela se-wizard esihle.
Ngo-1953, abantu abamaziyo ababili benzeka kuma-biografikhi kaJuber de zhivani. Owokuqala ngomama Cristobal Balenciagoy. Umqambi wemfashini waseSpain iminyaka eminingi usephenduke uCumier nomeluleki weFrance, wamfundisa ukuthi asebenze ngombala futhi acabange ngezithombe ezincane zemfashini. I-School Balenciaga isibe yisipiliyoni esimangalisayo kanye nesitolo sezimfihlo ezisebenzayo, asebenza kuyo yonke imisebenzi yokudala.
Shumeka kusuka ezithombeni ezifuywayoUmngani wesibili womsebenzisi ovele ngalesi sikhathi kwakungu-Actress Hepburn. Futhi yize umhlangano wabo wokuqala kwakunguTinge wokudumazeka (de zhivovishi, engazi igama lesivakashi, kulindeleke ukuthi abone i-Oskarone Catherine Hepburn), i-Master yaqhubeka nezinkumbulo zalolu suku ngemuva kwempilo yakhe yonke.
"Wayemangalisa kakhulu. Ubumnene obubukwayo nasemkhubani wakhe oyinkimbinkimbi banginqobile kusukela ngomzuzwana wokuqala, "wabhala ezimisweni.U-Audrey ugqoke ngokuphuthumayo izingubo zefilimu "Sabrina", lapho edlale khona indima enkulu. Kwakungekho sikhathi sokuthunga isikhathi, futhi uDe zhivasha welule umlingisi ukuthi akhethe amamodeli ekunambithekeni kwawo. Ngakho-ke kwakhethwa izingubo ezingaphezu kuka-20 ezilungiselelwe, kufaka phakathi ingubo emhlophe kanokusho, efekethisiwe ngosilika omnyama, enquma indawo eyinhloko yezothando.
Ifilimu likaBilly Wilder, oqokwe ezigabeni eziningana, wathatha i-statuette esezingeni elifanele. Kodwa-ke, lo mklomelo wahamba ngomculi osezalweni u-Edith u-Edith wayebhaliswe ngokusemthethweni ezinkomeni zefilimu. Futhi ngakho-ke kungaba igama likaDe zhivani alibandakanyi empumelelweni ye-Oscar, uma kungenjalo hepburn. Okuqhakambisa nokunquma, naphezu kwako konke ukugcwala kwakhe, umlingisi umemezele obala igama loMlobi wezingubo futhi wagcizelela izichibiyelo ku-Protocony of the Centemony. Bese kuthi-ke naxolisa mathupha kumqambi wemfashini.
Kusukela ngalolo suku, umlando wobungani obumangalisayo beCouturier nomnyuziyamu wakhe baqala, okuholele e-cinema ehlangene. Kusukela manje kuzo zonke izingubo zenkanyezi zidala u-zhivani. Izingubo zakhe ezidumile zingabonakala kumidwebo "ehlekisayo uMorrashka" (1957), "ibhulakufesi eTiffany" (1961), "Untshontsha kanjani isigidi" (1966).
Shumeka kusuka ezithombeni ezifuywayoNgakho-ke, u-Audrey iminyaka eminingi waba nobuso bendlu yemfashini eyakhiwe, kwathi ngo-1957, edumo lakhe "kwazwakala" futhi iphunga elisha elivela eCouturier, abalingiswa abathandekayo. Imimoya yokuqala ye-L'interdit ("evinjelwe") imake ekuqaleni kokuthuthukiswa kwendlela eqondile - i-parfums denzinchy (i-cult aromas "ingelosi nedemoni", "u-orgaza", "akunakuvinjwa"). Namuhla kukhiqiza hhayi amakha namanzi namakhaya kuphela, kepha futhi nokunakekela imikhiqizo (okhilimu, ama-lotion, imaski, njll.), Kanye nezimonyo zokuhlobisa (i-powder, amathunzi, blush, njll.).
Kwathi ngo-1957, kudalwe ingubo edumile kakhuthi (ingubo ye-sac). Kwamahhala ngamabomu futhi kwancishiswa ezansi, kufihle umugqa okhalweni, obekungaphambilini obekuthathwe kuphela ukugcizelela. Indlela eguqukayo enjalo yasho into eyodwa kuphela - sekuyisikhathi sokwenza izingubo zabesifazane hhayi ezinhle kuphela, kodwa futhi zinethezekile. Kuyinto zhivani eba umtholo wokuqondisa "Pret-A-Port" futhi unikeza ukukhiqizwa okukhulu kwezingubo zokunethezeka ezilungele.
Shumeka kusuka ezithombeni ezifuywayoOkunye okusha okuvela kumqambi wokudala kwaba amasudi wesikhathi samabili - iJacket + isiketi. Le ngubo ikuvumela ukuthi iluguqule, gqoka nezinye izinto zekhabethe.
Ekupheleni kweminyaka engama-60s - ekuqaleni kwama-70s, de zhivyushi ivula ukuqondiswa okunemfashini wesilisa futhi isuka eParis iye eNew York. Kepha inkazimulo ingekuphambi kwekhalente elinethalente, futhi nakhu sekulindele ukucacisa okuphelele kwamakhasimende avelele. Phakathi kwazo nezinkanyezi zeHollywood Elizabeth Taylor, uMarlene Dietrich, kanye nezintokazi zokuqala zombuso - inkosazana monaco Greate kanye nomlingani kaMongameli uJohn Kennedy Jacqueline.
Ngalesi sikhathi, inkosi isabambisana ne-cinema: ekuqaleni kweminyaka engama-70s, idala izingubo zeBrick BARDO kwifilimu "uma uDon Juan wayengowesifazane" futhi lo msebenzi ugcwalisa "ubuciko obukhulu kunabo bonke.
Ngo-1988, uKuturier wathengisa indlu yakhe yemfashini ephumelelayo ngosomabhizinisi waseFrance uBernard Arno, futhi wamjoyina noMbuso wakhe uLVHM (uLouis Vuitton Mot Hennessy). Ngalesi sikhathi, le ndlu yayiyisakhiwo esithuthukisa ngempumelelo, phakathi kwemikhiqizo yayo kwakungeyona kuphela izingubo namakha, kodwa nezicathulo, izikhwama, izinto zikanokusho.
Ngesikhathi sokuthengiselana, kwacaciswa ukuthi iminyaka engu-7, uYuber de Limphishi uzohlala njengoMqondisi wezobuciko kanye nomqambi omkhulu wendlu. Ngokwesivumelwano, uMadreman wakushiya lokhu okuthunyelwe ngo-1995, ememezela ukuthi wayengeke esakwazi ukusebenza ngentshiseko efanayo. Umqambi wemfashini uphakama ngokuqinile ukufa komculo wakhe u-Audrey Hepburn ngo-1993.
Impilo yomuntu siqu
Naphezu kweqiniso lokuthi isikhathi esimangazayo esenziwe yi-de zhivovishi kanye ne-hepburns ndawonye, kanye nokubingelela kwamathenda abantu ababili bokudala abaphambi kwamakhamera, ubudlelwano babo babunobungane nge-platonic. ICouturier ithuluzi lokuthunga imishado emibili i-Audrey, futhi futhi igqoke amacala athembekile wamadodana akhe.Shumeka kusuka ezithombeni ezifuywayoImpilo yomuntu siqu ka-Fashion ayizange isebenze, akakaze ashade futhi akazange aqale izingane. Cindezela okuphuzi, ukuzama ukuthola izimbangela zempilo yakhe ye-bachelor, kwamsola emgaqweni ongewona wendabuko, umklami waze waba ne-Roman neBalenciag. Kodwa-ke, asikho isiqinisekiso esinikeziwe.
Ukushona
Eminyakeni yamuva nje, uDe zhivani wayehlala engozini efeni elithandekayo lelo eliseduze: abhale izithombe, aqoqwe ingadi emangazayo, ebambe iqhaza ekuhleleni imibukiso yangempela. Ngo-2007, ngokwesibonelo, ngathuthukisa ukwakheka kwezitembu zokuposa ezikhishwe ngosuku lukaValentine.
Shumeka kusuka ezithombeni ezifuywayoNgoMashi 10, 2018, wonke umhlaba utholwe ngokufa kwe-couturier edumile. Wahamba buthule, ephusheni, ngonyaka we-92 wokuphila, wasinda emnyuzimu ongcolile wayo iminyaka engama-25. Umngcwabo we-matra wabanjwa umbuthano omncane wezihlobo nabathandekayo.
Ukukhumbula
Akekho nencwadi eyodwa: "I-Puterchy: 40 Ans de Crion" (1991), "uHubert de Punderchy: I-Adre Vies et legends" (2000), "Thula uHubert de Poidnchy: Pourrey Avec Tutor Mon Amor" (2017).
Shumeka kusuka ezithombeni ezifuywayoNgoMashi 2016, i-premiere yefilimu egciniwe e-Erika Pelletain "Hubert de Punenerchy: Impilo eHaute Couture" yenzeka. Umbhali wakwazi ukuqoqa amaqiniso amaningi athakazelisayo ngempilo nomsebenzi we-matra.
Indlu enikeziwe iyaqhubeka nokuphila, ukuthi ngubani, ngemuva kokunakekelwa kukaDe Zhivov, aholwa ngabakwaJohm Galliano, u-Alexander McQueen, uRicardo Tishi. Umlando ogcwele wendlu edumile ungatholakala kuwebhusayithi esemthethweni.