Ubuzima
Couturier Iva Henri Mathiere Saint-Laurent, azwiho nka Yves Saint-Laurent, yitwa inganda z'impimbano, igikomangoma gito cy'imyambarire no mu majwi yimyambarire. Nicolas Sarkozy yavuze ko Saint Laurent ariwe wa mbere mu bafatanyabikorwa yazamuye urwego rwimyambarire kurwego rwibihangano.
Inshuti na mugenzi wabo Kuturier - Pierre Berez - Muri make muri biography yo guhanga ya Iva Saint-Lauren, avuga ko Ikibaho cya kabiri cyagize ingaruka ku gice cya mbere cy'ikinyejana cya makumyabiri, naho igice cya kabiri - Saint-Laurent. Yatanze ikiremwamuntu imiterere ya Unisex, abagore bambaye muri Tuxedo, inkweto ndende, blouse iboneye kandi zikamba. Kandi uwambere yatumiwe muri podium yumurongo ufite uruhu rwijimye.
Mu bwana n'urubyiruko
Ejo hazaza "umwubatsi" w'imyenda yimyambarire yavukiye muri Alijeriya Oran mu mpeshyi ya 1936. Se wa se yakoraga n'umukozi wubwishingizi, kandi Mama yabaye i IVA Ise muse ya mbere yahumekeye kurema ibishushanyo by'imyambarire. Umugoroba we uva ku Mwana n'abakobwa babiri bari bategereje ko utanga ikinyagitanyo. Gushushanya ibishushanyo bya YVES Saint-Laurent yatangiye afite imyaka 8, kandi muri 11 yatwarwaga na stade Theatrical. Nibyo, ku buryo bidatinze yubaka ibyiza by'inzu, yambaye ibipupe mu myambaro ifatanye na flap irangi.
Mu nzu nta gutinya kirenze, "ibitaramo" Iva yishimiye mama, bashiki bacu na mubyara. Ishuri ridashidikanye ku musozi kurweer watanze ikinamico ikomeye Louis Khuve "mu ishuri" ry'abagore ", ahantu nyaburanga no kongero abahanzi b'Abakristo b'Abafaransa yaremye.
Nyuma, Saint-Laurent yemeye ko, babonye imyenda y'abakinnyi ba Berar, bamenye ko ikintu cy'ingenzi mu kiti cyari ubugingo, n'umugore mu myambarire. Muri Alijeriya Yvess Saint-Laurent yarangije muri kaminuza na Lyceum, bibanda ku masomo akunda - Igifaransa n'Ikilatini. Abanditsi bahinduye isi, bita Andre Zhida na Marseille bategereje, batanga Matisse kubahanzi.
Igishushanyo n'imyambarire
Ku ya 17, umusore yageze kuri "umurwa mukuru w'imyambarire" yiyandikisha kugira ngo ashushanye amasomo "kuva kurir". Intsinzi ya mbere yaje muri uwo mwaka: imyambarire ya cocktail yumukara, igishushanyo cyaremye Yvess Saint-Laurent, yafashe umwanya wa mbere mumarushanwa. Nyuma yimyaka ibiri, mu 1955, umusore wimyaka 19 yafashe umufasha ku bakozi ba gikristo Diora. Mu 1957, umutware w'inzu y'imyambarire yarapfuye. Kumyaka ibiri yubufatanye, Dior yabonye mukinana umufasha uzwi, nuko ba nyiri ikirango basezeranye kuri Iva Saint-Laurean, bahebye Couturier wimyaka 21 yumwanya wubuhanzi.
Mu ntangiriro z'umwaka wa 1958, uwashizeho yerekanye icyegeranyo cyo gushaka urukiko mu rukiko, aho Iva Saint-Laurean yahumekeje Abarusiya Sundars. Ntamuntu wari witeze ko f'uburor, kuva iva yari ategereje gukomeza umurongo wa Diora - kwitotomba bya filhouettes. Kandi uwashya yerekanye igitunguru gishya rwose - A-silhouette. Imyenda ngufi ya trapezodal, idoda imyenda itemba na silk, "yategereje" umurambo wumugore kandi ntabwo yakoranye ibisobanuro bisanzwe kurugendo. Bukeye, nyuma yo kwerekana imiterere ya Paris, banditse ko Yves Saint-Laurent hamwe na Saronfans ye "yarokoye Ubufaransa."
Mu ci ryo mu 1959, uwashizeho yagiye muri Moscou mu manfuni cumi na babiri, aba umupayiniya w'inganda z'imyambarire y'Ubufaransa muri Leta Zunze Ubumwe z'Abasoviyeti. Umwaka utaha, umusore Matra yahamagariye umurimo w'ingabo atuma muri Afurika. Ikizamini cya Witwaje Igisirikare Yvess Saint-Laurent ntishobora kwihagararaho: Nyuma yiminsi 20 yakozwe nyuma yo gusenyuka hamwe no mu bitaro. Umusore yafatwaga nk'amashanyarazi na "bigoye" ubuvuzi, nyuma yo gutakaza ibiro 35.
Gusubira munzu yimyambarire, Yves Saint-Laurent yazanye icyegeranyo gishya cyimpeshyi "Hipster", yatanze mu myaka ya za 1960. Amapikipiki ya moto yakozwe mu ruhu rw'ingona n'inkono ya mins hamwe n'inzobere ziboheye mu rugo: Icyegeranyo cyasaga na Avant, garisitani kandi cyiza. Saint-Laurean yararashe, asimbuze couturier yinguni kugirango ahanure itaranura ikimenyetso cya Mark Baran. Gushyigikira inshuti ya sergen yirukanwe. Yafashaga guhangana n'ikibazo no gusohoka uwatsinze: Yves Saint-Laurent yatsinze amafaranga menshi ku kumena amasezerano mu buryo butemewe.
Inzu y'imyambarire YSL.
Kubona umushoramari mushya - Rwiyemezamirimo y'Abanyamerika Mark Robinson - Yvess Saint-Laurent na Pierre Berez babonye inzu yabo yimyambarire hamwe nikirangantego cya YSL. Mbere yo kwerekana icyegeranyo mu mpera za Mutarama 1962, Abaparuwasi batinze ubumwe ku byatsinzwe, bizera ko umushinga w'imyambarire nta mafaranga afite yo kwigira umuntu gusa. Ariko abakuramu bashyizwe hamwe: umurongo mushya wimyenda hamwe numwuka wigihe hamwe na silhouettes yamakuru ya Francoisa Sagan na Baroness de Rothschild.
Mu 1965, Yves Saint-Laurent yerekanye isi icyegeranyo cy'impinduramatwara "Mondrian", atangaza ko yambiwe kubiba abagore ba damionaires. A-silhouettes yimyambarire hamwe nibishushanyo bya geometrike byumuhanzi wubuholandi pita Mondrian yatunguye isi yimyambarire. Muri icyo cyegeranyo, uwashizeho yakoresheje umurimo wa kiliziya ya Kazmeir Malevich na Serzh Polyakova. Ibishushanyo mbonera byambara - ntabwo byandika, ariko bidoda ibice by'amabara. Igitekerezo cyatowe na bagenzi be ba Saint-Laurean, bigatuma inkomoko yabo bwite, ariko inkomoko y'ibitekerezo yahagaze Yvest Saint-Laurent.
Mu 1966, YSL yijihije ububiko bwa Boutique ya Boutique hamwe n'imyambaro ya ROSTE-Icyambu, mu mutwe wa RILve Gauche yagaragaye mu izina (aho yakorewe muri kajugune y'inyanja, aho Volnodumtsy, yakemuwe). Izina ryateganijwe n'impinduka z'impinduramatwara Yves Saint Laurent yatangijwe mu nganda z'imyambarire: Abagore Couturier yambaye imyenda y'abagabo basuraga mu mibonano mpuzabitsina kandi nziza.
Umwaka umwe, icyegeranyo cya "Tuxedo" cyabaye, ibyo Yerekane Saint-Laurent "yarangije" ibisigazwa by'imyambarire y'abakurambere. Muri Wardrobe y'abagore yagaragaye "ibintu" by'abagabo - Imyambarire y'abantu - Imyambarire ya Trose, ikoti mu buryo bwa "safari", muri rusange, amakoti ya Booster. Ariko izi moderi, kuguza "ubutwari" silhouettes, ntabwo byabuze abagore b'imibonano mpuzabitsina.
Icyegeranyo "Kogoson" yo mu 1971 cyabaye ubushotoranyi, gifatanye n'umuyobozi w'umwanditsi kunegura. Ku murongo wa tlits matra, Pauloma Paloma yahumetswe. Nuburyohe butagaragara kandi ntitinya ubushakashatsi, umugore yaguze ikositimu ya 40 kumasoko ya Flea, yibasiye Iva Saint-Laurent. Ku gihungiro, abagore basohowe mu myenda isa n'intambara ya kabiri y'isi yose.
Undi Muse Numvise Saint Laurent kuri "Librason" yari umuntu uzwi cyane cyane ubuhoji bwa Placatev Marlene Diettrich. Umusaza wa kera yararakaye ati: Bibutse imyaka yakazi k'Abanazi. Ikirangantego cyumukara, inkweto za platform hamwe na matara yaka yahumetse kunegura imbibi hamwe nabagore imyitwarire yoroshye mumashyamba yoroshye. Ariko kuri shift shkwal, kunegura mu buryo butunguranye byaje mu myambaro y'abagore "kuva i YSL: Yves Saint-Laurent yongeye guhanura imigendekere, kuba intambwe ebyiri imbere.
Umwanditsi w'imyambarire ya Diana Vrilalyland yavuze ko kutveier "ifite uburyo bw'imirozi bwihariye ku bagore," kandi marefe iyo ari yo yose, imideli y'imyaka yose izamujya inyuma. Mu 1976, Yves Saint-Laurent yashyiragaho gukusanya imikino yo mu Burusiya n'inyota y'ibintu bishya, yari afite ikinamico cy'Uburusiya, Ballet Sergei Dyagileev n'impamvu z'igihugu. Podi yanduye yanduye mumyambarire "umuhinzi" hamwe no kudoda no kudoda.
1990 yaranzwe no kwegeranya umusoro, Madre, ateganya kwitabwaho, yeguriye abantu be bakundanye - ababyinnyi, ababyinnyi, abahanzi. Navuga byoroshye Yvest Saint-Laurent hamwe nabafana namahoro yimyambarire muri Mutarama 2002. Igitaramo cy'ikusambo cya nyuma cyabereye hagati ya George Pompidou. Gusezera kuri Maestro, imyaka 40 yinjiye kandi utegeka imyambarire, yabaye ibirori byigihugu.
Kwisiga na parufe - ikindi gice cyibihanga byiza bya Saint-Laurent. Mu 1971, inyenyeri yinganda zimyambarire yisi yerekana impumuro nziza "Opimu". Kwamamaza byagaragaye ko ari ubushotoranyi nk'impanuka ubwayo: kubera kwerekana imyuka, IV Saint-Laurent. Mu bihe biri imbere, umusarani n'amazi atemba "amazi meza" yamamaje Linda Madamu, Rupert Everett n'ahantu ho gukomera kwa Couturier yambaye ubusa.
Ubuzima Bwihariye
Pierre Berez yari inshuti, mugenzi wanjye na Lover Iva Saint-Laurent. Mu myaka ya za 70, igitabo cyarangiye, ariko ubufatanye n'ubufatanye mu bucuruzi. Mbere gato y'urupfu rwa Matra, abashakanye bashoje ishyingiranwa ry'abaturage.
Yves Saint-Laurent yakundanye na mugenzi wa Karl Lagerpeld Jacques de Bashiker. Umusore yabaye mu muryango wize, yatandukanijwe no kugaragara no gukunda ibirori byisi. Jacques afite imyaka igera kuri 12 yari igizwe n'imibanire na Lagerfeld, ariko hanyuma ajya kwa Saint-Laurean. Nyuma yimyaka 6, Jacques de Basher yapfuye kubera sida.
Icyerekezo kidasanzwe cya IVA Saint-Laurean ntabwo cyabaye inzitizi gukunda abagore: Gutiza imyambarire yabagabo nimbuto, uburyo bwa unisex ntabwo yifuzaga guhindura umugore kumuntu. Ipantaro hamwe na jacketi y'uruhu iva muri Saint Laurent "guhumeka" hamwe n'imibonano mpuzabitsina, amakoti n'ibikorwa bya Shuri biratangaje cyane kandi bishimangira impapuro.
Abategarugori Iva Saint-Lauren yitwa Catherine Denev, Makeneso Pacsoso, ManNequins, Versushka (Vera von Lendorf) na Lulu de La Falez.
Urupfu
Imyaka itandatu yanyuma yubuzima bwa Maestro bwakoreshejwe munzu ya Ultramamaric muri Marrakesh. Yves Saint-Laurent yavuye mu bihe mu mpera z'imyaka ya za 1980 kubera ibibazo by'ubuzima: Coucurier yahohoteye inzoga n'ibiyobyabwenge inshuro nyinshi. Mu 1992, bene batangaje kugenda kwa IVA, Laurent N '"Impera y'imyambarire ndende", ariko kugenda kwa nyuma ", ariko kugenda bya nyuma bivuye ku bibazo nyuma y'imyaka 10. Ibibazo by'amafaranga byaguye ku nzu ya YSL. COuturier yapfuye nimugoroba mu ntangiriro y'izuba ryo mu 2008 i Paris, wabonye abakaramu baragwa. Impamvu y'urupfu rwa IVA Saint-Laurent yari ikibyimba cyubwonko.Gusezera kumushingamategeko yimyambarire yisi yabereye mu itorero rya Paris ya Mutagatifu-Roche. Prahi Wya Saint-Laurent yakuyeho ubusitani akunda kuri Villa "Mazhorel" i Marrakesh, akwiriye kwicara nimugoroba muri sosiyete iII (amazina amwe yakiriye PSDA ibiri yabanjirije). Filime ebyiri zavanyweho ku murimo w 'modant zidashira imbere ":" Yves Saint-Laurent "Jalil Leskré na" Saint-Laurent. Imiterere - Ndi "Bonerlo. Amashusho yombi yavuye muri 2014.
Imiterere ya Leta kuri uyu munsi
Mu 1999, YVES Saint-Laurent yabonye inzu yimyambarire yo mu Butaliyani Gucci, yashinzwe guteza imbere ibyegeranyo ya Ford. Couturier yakoraga ku ireme ry'umurongo mushya kugeza 2004, nyuma yo kwitabwaho, relay yaguye kuri Stefano Pilati. Kuva mu 2011 kugeza 2013, Umuyobozi mukuru w'inzu yimyambarire Yes Saint Laurent Paris yabaye Umubiligi. Mu buyobozi bwe mu gihe cy'itumba cy'Umuyobozi wa 2012, Edie Sluman yagizwe umuyobozi uhanga. Mu ci y'uwo mwaka umwe, Svanima yatangaje umurongo muri Saint Laurent Paris.
Mu mwaka wa 2012, YSL abateramu bakora parufe ya Manifeste ashize amanga kandi yibohoye. Ibikoresho byitwa parufe "Maniste igitsina gore": "fungura" ibimenyetso byindaya, mu "umutima" windabyo, wuzuyemo ibiti "bike".
Muri 2016, Sliemanna yahinduye uwashushanyije Anthony GringCarello. Muri 2017, VakcQuello yahujwe hamwe ibitaramo byumugore nigitsina gabo byigihe cyizuba-cyimpeta. Mu cyegeranyo gishya, uwashushanyije yerekanye amajipo magufi, ipantaro kuva Vinyl, Corteran kandi yigeze kuguriza na Yves Saint-Laurent inkweto zifite ubumwe-buke. Vakccarello izahindura icyatsi kuri garmoshka. Amazu mashya yimyambarire arashobora kugurwa kurubuga rwemewe. Ibiciro byimyambarire yimyenda, imifuka n'inkweto ihindagurika kuva "byahinduwe" kuri demokarasi.
Amagambo
- "Mu myaka yashize, nasanze ikintu cy'ingenzi mu myambarire ari umugore wamushizeho."
- "Muri ubu buzima ndicuza ikintu kimwe gusa - ko jeans yatangiranye nanjye."
- "Imyenda igomba kugandurwa imiterere y'umugore, kandi ntabwo bitandukanye."
- "Urukundo nuburyo bwiza bwo kwisiga. Ariko biroroshye kwisiga. "
- "Imyambarire yanjye yagenewe abagore bashobora kubona ivalisi mirongo ine."
- "Mu munsi umwe" mwiza "kuri Radiyo yatangaje ko napfuye. Abanyamakuru b'abanyamakuru bamwihutiye. Byari ngombwa kuvuga ko ibi byose ari ibinyoma: Hano ndi muzima kandi mfite ubuzima bwiza. Ariko kubera impamvu runaka batifuzaga kunyizera na gato, nubwo bambonye n'amaso yabo. "
- Ati: "Imyambarire myiza ku mugore ni uguhobera umugabo ukunda. Ariko kubamburwa umunezero nk'uwo, hariho njye. "
- "Imyambarire yimyambarire, uburyo bw'iteka."