Chiphunzitso
Vivien Westwood - mzimayi yemwe mbiri yake ndiyoyenera kumasulidwa. Moyo wa Wifien ndi nkhani ya mphunzitsi wa mphunzitsi yemwe adasiya kukonda kwawo ntchito yake, sanachite mantha kuti asinthe chikhumbo ndikuchita zomwe amakonda. Pambuyo pake, Westwood idalankhulidwa ndi phokoso ndi Kitch, nyumba yamalamulo a The Mod ndi kubwezeretsanso kwamuyaya, koma kumayambiriro kwa njira iyi, kudalira ludzu lochokera pansi pamtima.Ubwana ndi Unyamata
Vivaen Isabel SUIRE - dzina lotere lopanga mafashoni wamtsogolo lomwe lidalandira pobadwa - linatuluka mu Chingerezi Cheshire Cheshire. Ali mwana, kulenga kwake sikunasonyeze chilichonse: mtsikanayo adapita kusukulu wamba, komwe adawonedwa kuti anali wakhama. Chilichonse chasintha mu 1958, pomwe banja la Menr linasamukira ku London.
Panthawiyo, Vivien anali atamaliza kale sukulu ndipo anali atayima asanasankhe njira ina. Ali mwana, moyo wa mzinda wa mzinda wa mzinda wa mzinda wa Metropolita analankhula mutu wake, ndipo dona wachichepereyo adaganiza zopanga chuma, kulembetsa kusukulu yaluso.
Tsoka ilo, nthawiyo idakhala yosayenera: banja la Vivien lidakhala lopanda pake, ndipo mtsikanayo adakwatirana, ndipo amayenera kuganiza za zomwe akupeza nthawi zonse. Chifukwa chake mwininyumba yamtsogolo ya mafashoni aluso aluso ndipo adalowa koleji ya Plogagical kuti ipeze ntchito "yapadziko lapansi. Zaka zingapo pambuyo pake, munthu wamtsogolo anali atagwira kale ntchito ngati mphunzitsi wa makalasi akulu, komabe, zojambulazo zidapitilizabe kuvala zovala zawo.
Mu imodzi mwa zokambirana, Vivien adazindikira kuti pamapeto pake adaganiza zopanga ukwati woyamba: Panalibe ndalama za zovala zamakono, ndipo iye, monga msungwana aliyense, amafuna kuvala china chapadera patsikulo. Chifukwa chake mkwatibwi adadzilingalirayo ndikusoka chovala chake.
Muyeso Wotsatira Womwe Pomaliza Cholinga Chosankhidwa Chofunika kwambiri m'moyo chinali choti mumudziwe bwino malcolm macllaren - woimba, woimba nkhani ndi malingaliro a gulu lachitetezo cha pistols. Munthuyu adadzozedwa ndi Vivien, kuti adasankha kusiya sukulu ndikutsegula bizinesi yake.
Ntchito ndi Kapangidwe
Mu 1971, cholumikizira cha ku Wedadudid ndi Malcolm McLaren adatsegulidwa. Sitoloyo inkatchedwa kuti pathanthwe. Dzinali lidayamba kulungamitsidwa ndi zovala zomwe zidaperekedwa kwa ogula: Kugonjera, kopanda mtengo - moyenera adafunsa chizolowezi cha chikhalidwe cha nthawi imeneyo.Komabe, livaenne kupezeka kokwanira, ndipo kale mu 1974 dzina la Boutique linasintha kugonana, ndipo mawonekedwe a zovala anali osangalala.
Pamenepo, malangizo a punk mu zovala adayamba kupangidwa - chifukwa cha maziko omwe amapezeka poyambira.
Makhalidwe osawerengeka a kalembedwe kameneka ndi a Lasanx ndi zikopa, zikopa zachitsulo komanso zowoneka bwino zokongoletsera, zodzoladzola zowoneka bwino. Kuphatikiza apo, Vivien sanachite mantha kugwiritsa ntchito zinthu za bdsm ngakhale malo ogulitsira ogonana. Panthawi yake, zovalira izi ndi zowonjezera zidakhala wolimba mtima komanso zopatsa chidwi.
Chidwi pamavalidwe owonjezereka chinakulira, koma kutchuka kwenikweni kwa Westwood kunawonekera gulu la gulu logonana. Wopanga adayambitsa gawo la zigawo za mamembala a gulu, ndipo patapita kanthawi mafani a "pistols a" amafuna kuvala zovala zomwezo ngati mafano awo.
Tsoka ilo, gulu la chipulululi linagwa (mfundo yomaliza pantchito ya oimbayo inali imfa ya Sersulist Sid). Kumayambiriro kwa 1980s, malo ogulitsira anasintha dzina la dziko lonse lapansi, ndipo vivinaenne adalembetsanso mtundu wake wa vivienne Westwood. Ichi chinali chiyambi cha nthawi yatsopano mu ntchito ya wopanga mafashoni.
Tsopano Westwood Street Fashoni. Mwanjira yoyankhunitsani, Wopanga adakoka mwambo wa mafashoni kwambiri, ndikupanga zosavuta, zomasuka komanso zosagwira ntchito. Vivien adatha kuyambitsa mafashoni akuluakulu, komanso "okokedwa" ndi mawondo. Zovala, poyang'ana koyamba, zikuwoneka ngati zopusa komanso zoponderezedwa, posakhalitsa kuwoneka zovuta pa London iliyonse ya London.
Komabe, Wet Wetwoood idakhala yaying'ono: yokhala ndi wopanga, Wopanga adapita ku Paris ndi Mitu yovuta ina yaku Europe, yosonyeza mafashoni atsopano ndi otsutsa. Nthawi ikale, yomwe ili ndi vivaet yoyambitsidwa nthawi imeneyo, imatchula "zapamwamba za nsalu ndi zotsekemera." Komabe, zingwe zolimbitsa mwadala, mabowo, patch ndi maluwa ophuka maluwa mwachangu anayamba kutchuka.
Chinthu china chosiyanitsa mitundu ya Vivaeny ndi kugwiritsa ntchito zambiri zowala komanso zosayembekezereka mu zovala wamba, madiresi amadzulo ndi zokongoletsera. Wopanga sanachite mantha ndi mafuko: mawonekedwe a zithunzi, nthenga zokongoletsa, mikanda ndi zigawo zamatabwa.
Mu 1990s ndi 1991, Westwood idapatsidwa mutu wa omwe adapanga bwino kwambiri pa chaka ndi Brital Council. Munthawi yomweyo, Wopanga mafashoni adakhala pulofesa wa Vienna Academy of Art - ndipo izi zikuganiza kuti maphunziro a luso la Vivien sanalandire.
Zovala za zovala, zopangidwa ndi wopanga, adadzozedwa ndi kuvomerezedwa kwawo, John Glialian ndi Alexander Mcqueen. Palibe makasitomala osadziwika bwino ndi mayina a makasitomala a nyumba ya mafashoni: Woyimba Naomi Misbenie ndi Mndandanda wa Mafani a Onlight Atha Kupitilira Mosakhalitsa. Ndipo ngwazi za Sarah Jessica Parker - Carrie Bradshow - mufilimu kutalika kwambiri "kudera lalikulu laukulu" kuwonekera mu kavalidwe kaukwati kuchokera ku Vivien.
Mu 2016, mtunduwo unalowa m'malo mwake. Tsopano nkhani ya moyo Westwood imadziwika kuti Andreas Kronthaler wa Vivienne Westwood. Mwakulu wa bungwe la Adoreas crontar adakhala wokhulupirika komanso wokhazikika wolandira zopereka zatsopano.
Mu 2018, Vivien yatulutsa chipangano ndi mtundu wa burberry. Kugwirizana kumeneku kwakhala imodzi mwazomwe zikuyembekezeredwa kwambiri chaka chino. Malinga ndi opanga, kuwonjezera pa chikondi cha mafashoni, iwo analimbikitsa chikhumbo chofuna kuchirikiza chikhumbo chofuna kuchirikiza Bungwe Lokhala lotentha padziko lapansi, lomwe limamenyera chipulumutso cha nkhalango. Chifukwa chake gawo la ndalama zomwe adalandira kuchokera ku malonda ogulitsa mitundu yatsopano idaperekedwa chifukwa cha zachifundo.
Mbinza
Westwood ndi andale otchuka ndi Eco -ctivist, omwe amagwiritsa ntchito podium kuti afotokoze malingaliro ake. Mu 2005, vivien ngati chizolowezi chotsutsa ndondomeko ya anthu aku UK adapanga T-sheti yolemba "sindine chigawenga, sindimandimanga."
Komanso, wopanga adatenga nawo kampeni ya nyukiliya ya nyukiliya, yothandizidwa ndi ufulu wakuimira Scotland, zotsutsana ndi zochotsa mafuta.
Vivien ndi wasamba komanso woyimira paufulu wa nyama. Anakana kukulitsa bizinesi yake yekhayo ndipo pa vivaenne Westwood FW 2019/20 Soutsani mafani kuti apeze zovala zocheperako ndipo osaipitsa dziko lapansi. Lingaliro ili si lachilendo ku Westwood - mmbuyo mu 2013 sanachite manyazi kunena mawu a Caremble Kate Middleton kuti iyenso amasintha zovala zosawoneka bwino.
Makamaka ochititsa chidwi ndi omwe adathandizidwa ndi omwe adayambitsa Julian Asshange mu Julayi 2020: pafupi ndi khothi lanyumba ku London Vivien Viviet adawonetsera khola la mbalame. Malinga ndi Westwood, Assange ndi ngwazi yomwe imanena za dziko lapansi za milandu yapadziko lonse lapansi.
Moyo Wanu
Moyo wa Wopanga sanali wowala kwambiri kuposa ntchito. Amuna oyamba opanga mafashoni adayamba ku Lastwood. Mu banjali, ana awiri anabadwa - mwana wa Benjamini ndi mwana wamkazi wa Rose. Alkolm McLare adadzakhala chachiwiri chachiwiri, wouziridwa ndi wouziridwa, wocheza ndi woyambitsa sitolo woyamba. Vivien adapereka Soulm mwana wamwamuna Joseph.Onse awiri a Landwood anapita kumapazi a mayi ndi womangika moyo ndi dziko lapansi la mafashoni ndi zaluso. Akuluakulu a Ben adakhala wojambula wachizolowezi. Yosefe anakakhazikitsa wothandizila ulemu wake, wopatsidwa ndi mitundu yapamwamba komanso yopambana komanso zokongoletsera.
Pambuyo polekanira, Wilirien ndi a McLare mu katoni nthawi ina analankhula za mabuku osiyanasiyana opanga mafashoni. Ndipo posakhalitsa Westweniod kulengeza zaukwati ndi Andreas Romter, wosilira nthawi yayitali komanso wophunzira kale. Ngakhale kusiyana pakati pa zaka (zaka zoposa 20), maubalewa anali amphamvu.
Pa nkhani za moyo ndi momwe mafani amaonera tsamba la Westwood ku "Instagram", komwe adayika zithunzi zatsopano kuchokera pazithunzizo. Kuphatikiza apo, mabungwe azamalamulo amatulutsa mabuku angapo momwe tsatanetsatane wa njira yawo kupita pamwamba paulemelero adagawana.
Vivien WestdudU tsopano
Tsopano Brandwood ikupitilizabe kuwongolera chitukuko cha mafashoni ndipo chiwerengero cha Vivienne Westwood Miyspous amaposa 500. Pansipa zinthu zapamwamba zapadera. Kwa 2021, zomwe wopanga adapitilira $ 50 miliyoni.
Pa Epulo 8, Wopanga mafashoni ankakonda zaka 80. Polemekeza Chikondwererochi Vivien, pamodzi ndi bungweli, Courna anamasulidwa filimu yochepa osagula bomba, lomwe linawonetsedwa pazenera lalikulu ku Europe - pa Piccadilly Square ku London. Pa tepi, Westwood adayimba nyimbo popanda nyimbo "mayi wanga wokongola" ndikusimba za zovuta za chilengedwe.