Yuber de Faphashi - chithunzi, mbiri yamunthu, moyo waumwini, womwe umayambitsa imfa, mafashoni

Chiphunzitso

Cholowa cha Mbuye wa Jubera de Fashashi la maveshoni sikuti ndi lalikulu, labwino komanso lapadera. Inakhala zitsanzo za kukoma kosasunthika ndi kukonzanso, komwe kunatha kubweretsa aristocrat yoona komanso mtumiki wotchuka wa zaluso. Wopanga Mafashoni anali kukhala ndi moyo wautali, kusiya nyumba yamitundu yomwe inamutcha dzina, komanso zinthu zachipembedzo komanso njira zothetsera mavuto a New News ndipo sanali kusintha padziko lonse lapansi.

Ubwana ndi Unyamata

Maomber James Marseille Taffen de hivani adabadwa pa February 21, 1927 ku Beauvais, France. Makolo a m'tsogolo amakwatirana ndi chikondi chachikulu, abale awo adakhala zitsanzo zogwirizana pophatikiza chiristocraccy ndi gulu lolemera.

Ikulungidwa kuchokera pazithunzi zapamwamba

Abambo Lucien Taffen de Zhivani - mbadwa yamisala ya ku Venetian, mwana wa Marchi. Pankhondo yoyamba yapadziko lonse, woyendetsa ndegeyo adaphunzitsidwa, kumenyana kutsogolo ndipo moyo wake wamfupi adadzipereka ku ntchito yachikondiyi.

Amayi Beatris - mwana wamkazi wa wojambula zithunzi za ku France Jules Serven, yemwenso anali bizinesi yotsatizana, kukonza bizinesi yopanga kupanga kwa ma taties. Agogo a Beatrice anali otchuka panthawi yovala utoto Adolf Worder.

A Beatrice ndi lucien adasandulika makolo awiri a ana amuna: woyamba woyamba wotchedwa Jean-Claude, wachichepere - yuberi. Abambo de Zhivanusha sanakumbukire, adamwalira pomwe dzuwa litakhala ndi zaka ziwiri. Malinga ndi mtundu umodzi, zidafa mukamagwira ntchito yakuuluka, mbali inayo, kuchokera ku Spain Fludemic, kuthamanga panthawi ku Europe.

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Kulera ana a Beatrice adathandizira amayi a Lucien - Margat. Agogo a agogo oyambawa adabweretsa pang'ono ndi singano, adalola manda kusewera ndi ma flap a nsaluyo, omwe amasunga mudengu losoka.

Mu 1937, Beatrice anali ndi mwayi ndi ana pa chiwonetsero chaluso zapadziko lonse ndi luso ku Paris. Apa zofuna za anyamatawa zidagawika: Jean-Cluude adachotsa zitsanzo zatsopano za malingaliro a ukadaulo, ndipo mafupa sakanakhoza kusiya zolengedwa za chipembedzo cha French. Mitundu yoyenerera idapezeka pamtunduwu.

Lingaliro lakuti Angalengenso kukongola kotero, adakhala pansi m'mutu wa mnyamatayo. Anayamba kujambula, kubala mizere yolangira. Nthawi yomweyo, malingaliro ake osasinthika, Yuberi adatenga masitayeyo ndi malingaliro ake, omwe amangodandaula za silika woyenda ndi zingwe zabwino kwambiri.

Ikulungidwa kuchokera pazithunzi zapamwamba

Komabe, malotowa adasokoneza choopsa, choopsa, opanda chiyembekezo. Zaka za dziko lachiwiri la Zhivani wachita zolimba: Agogo aakazi adamwalira, amayiwo adatengedwa kuti asagwire ntchito yakuda, ndipo ana amakhoza kuthandiza mkazi. Loto lidathandizira kumwera chakumadzulo sinaswe ndikukwera. Ndipo mu 1945, pa Parista atangokhala moyo wamtendere, adapita kumeneko ndi cholinga chokhala wophunzira wopanga mafashoni.

Pamenepo banjali linapanduka. "Palibe zaka zaphokoso laphokoso" - lino linali lonjezo la okondedwa amene adaona munthu wazamalamulo ndi loya bwino. Potengera zovuta zawo, mnyamatayo adalowa Sukulu ya National Sukulu ya Arts aluso, komanso yofanana ndi Phunziro linayamba kumvetsetsa maluso a maluso a coutore.

Luvala

M'mbuyomu Juber anali wophunzira wa matrov ngati Abrary Mafuta, Robert Peig, Lucien lelong. Phwando lapadera komanso ulemu kwa De Zhivlushi idakumana nayo, ikugwira ntchito ndi Elsa Skiaparelli, yemwe analibe nthawi yaunyamata atakhala fano lake. Mu 1947-1951, aristocrat anali wophunzira wamafashoni komanso wotsogolera Boutique.

Ikulungidwa kuchokera pazithunzi zapamwamba

De Zhivovishi amasiya nthano mu 1952 chifukwa choganiza bwino komanso zazitali - amatsegula nyumba yakeyake yomwe itapatsidwa nyumba, ndikukhala wocheperako wa Paris. Banja limathandiza pamenepa, kukhulupilira talente ya chingamu ndikutsamira likulu la banja. Komabe, panali ndalama zochepa, chifukwa chake, kwa wopanga chiwonetsero, wopanga adasankha nsalu zotsika mtengo komanso zoyenerera, ndikupanga kubetcha koyambira kwa Croy ndi Leson.

Ndipo sanataye: Mphepo ya ku Betidin inali bulawuti, yomwe zhivani adaitanidwa polemekeza malo osungiramo zinthu zoyambirira za Betitina Grazimui - mtsikanayo anali chitsanzo, ndipo wothandizira wa coutouria. Chitsanzo cha bulawuti yokhala ndi magetsi okongola, kusankha matope, adayamba kulamula ndipo adapangana ndi makasitomala oyamba, omwe ambiri mwa iwo adasiya Wizard;

Mu 1953, anzathu awiri okondana amachitika pazithunzi za juber de zhivani. Woyamba ali ndi amayi cristobal balenciagoy. Wopanga mapangidwe a ku Spain kwazaka zambiri akhala cumier ndi mlangizi wa ku Franman, adamuphunzitsa kugwira ntchito ndi utoto ndi kulingalira pazithunzi zazing'ono. Sukulu ya Balenciaga yakhala zokumana nazo komanso zobisika za zinsinsi za akatswiri, zomwe adazilemba pantchito yonseyi.

Ikulungidwa kuchokera pazithunzi zapamwamba

Mnzako wachiwiri wa wogwiritsa ntchito yemwe wapezeka nthawi imeneyi anali wolumala hepreck. Ndipo ngakhale msonkhano wawo woyamba unali kumva zokhumudwitsa (de zhivovishi, osadziwa dzina la mlendoyo, akuyembekezeredwa kuwona Oskarrone catherin hepburn hepburn hepburn hepburn wa tsiku lino kutatha moyo wake wonse.

"Anali wodabwitsa. Analemba mwachifundo ndi maluso ake andilanda ine kuyambira nthawi yoyamba, "analemba motero m'masiku ano.

Audreyyley zowonjezera zofunikira pafilimuyo "Sabrina", pomwe adachita mbali yayikulu. Panalibe nthawi yosoka nthawi, ndipo De Zhivanusha adalangiza ochita sewerowo kuti asankhe mitunduyo ndi kukoma kwawo. Chifukwa chake adasankhidwa kukhala zolimba zoposa 20, kuphatikizapo kavalidwe koyera kokwirira, kutsuka silika wakuda, kusankha mawonekedwe apamwamba achikondi.

Kanema wa Billy Wall, yemwe adasankhidwa m'magulu angapo, adatenga zikondwerero zokongoletsedwazo zokha. Komabe, mphothoyo inadutsa wojambulayo mu zovala Edith anali, wolembetsedwa mwadongosolo a filimuyo. Ndipo kotero kukakhala dzina la De hivani osakhala ndi zopambana kwa oscar, ngati si hepburn. Tchulani zinthu zambiri, ngakhale kuti ochita seweroli adalengeza poyera dzina la wolemba zovala zovala ndikuwafotokozeranso zosintha za mwambowo. Ndipo kenako ndikupepesanso kwa Wopanga mafashoni.

Kuyambira tsiku limenelo, mbiri yokhudza chibwenzi chodabwitsa ndi nyumba yake idayamba, yomwe idapangitsa kuti sinema yolumikizana. Kuyambira pano zovala zonse za nyenyeziyo zimapanga de zhivani. Zovala zake zotchuka zitha kuwoneka mu zojambula "zoseketsa mordashka" (1957), "chakudya cham'mawa pa Tiffany" (1961), "momwe mungaba miliyoni" (1966).

Ikulungidwa kuchokera pazithunzi zapamwamba

Chifukwa chake, omvera kwa zaka zambiri adakumana ndi mafashoni atapatsidwa mafashoni, ndipo mu 1957, m'gulu lake "limamveka" komanso fungo latsopano lochokera ku Couuturier, njira yabwino imagwirira ntchito. Mizimu Yoyamba ya L'Lilidi ("Oletsedwa") Ankayambira chitsogozo chonse - mapongozi a Aromas (Mngelo ndi Ziwanda "," osadziwika "). Lero sizipanga mafuta ndi madzi onunkhira okha, komanso kusamalira malonda (zonona, zokongoletsera, masc.).

Kenako, mu 1957, mavalidwe otchuka a cocoon adapangidwa (kavalidwe kake). Zinali zaulere mwadala komanso zotchinga pansi, kubisala mzere wa m'chiuno, zomwe zidatengedwa kale kuti zitsimikizire. Njira yosinthira izi imatanthawuza chinthu chimodzi chokha - ndi nthawi yopanga zovala za azimayi osati zokongola, komanso omasuka. Ndi zhivani yomwe imakhala yotulutsa njira "yokongola" ndipo imapereka madiresi ambiri opangira.

Ikulungidwa kuchokera pazithunzi zapamwamba

Kupangananso kwa Wopanga Wopanga kunasanduka masuti a nyengo ziwiri - jekete + kadulidwe. Choticho chidachokeza kuti zisinthe, kuvala ndi zinthu zina zovala.

Kumapeto kwa 60s - koyambirira kwa 70s, de Zhivyushi imatsegula chitsogozo chachimuna ndikuyenda kuchokera ku Paris kupita ku New York kupita ku New York. Koma ulemerero uli patsogolo pa cintrature tacy, ndipo pano akuyembekezera kale kugwedezeka kwa anthu otchuka. Pakati pawo ndi nyenyezi za Hollywood Elizabeth Taylor, Marlene Meyal, komanso azimayi oyamba a State - Princess Cololider Christicer.

Pakadali pano, mbuyeyo amagwirabe ntchito ndi sinema: Kumayambiriro kwa 70s, amapanga zovala za njerwa za njerwa "ngati Don Juan anali mkazi" ndipo ntchitoyi imakwaniritsa zabwino kwambiri.

Mu 1988, Kathurier adagulitsa nyumba yake yotukuka ndi bizinesi ya ku France Barnman Arno, ndipo adagwirizana naye ku Ufumu wake lvhm (Louis Vuitton Moët Henness). Pofika nthawi imeneyi, nyumbayo inali chinthu chotukuka bwino, mwazinthu zake sizinali zovala ndi zonunkhira zokha, komanso nsapato, matumba, zinthu zapamwamba.

Pa ntchitoyo, idalembedwa kuti kwa zaka 7, Yuber de lashashi adzakhala ngati mkulu wa zaluso komanso wopanga nyumbayo. Malinga ndi mgwirizano, adrereman adasiya izi mu 1995, kulengeza kuti sangathenso kugwira ntchito ndi chidwi chomwechi. Wopanga mafashoni amadalira imfa ya nyimbo yake Heprey Hepborn mu 1993.

Moyo Wanu

Ngakhale kuti kuchuluka kwa nthawi yomwe de zhivovishi ndi ma hepburns adachititsidwa pamodzi, komanso kuti ubale wawo ukhale wochezeka ndi mamera, ngakhale kuti chibwenzi chawo chinali chochezeka. COuutiurier anasokera zovala ziwiri zaukwati wa Auddy, komanso atavala amuna ake.Ikulungidwa kuchokera pazithunzi zapamwamba

Moyo waumwini wa Farfal sunathe, sanakwatire ndipo sanayambe ana. Makina achikaso, kuyesera kuti adziwe zomwe zidayambitsa moyo wake wa bachelor, adamuwonetsa kuti ndi wachikhalidwe. Wopanga adanenanso za Mroma ndi Balenciag. Komabe, palibe chitsimikizo choperekedwa.

Imfa

M'zaka zaposachedwa, de zhivani adakhala m'gulu lokondedwa le lazomwe adalemba: adalemba zithunzi, zomwe zidasonkhanitsa dimba lodabwitsa, adatenga nawo gawo popanga zowonetsera zoyambira. Mwachitsanzo, mchaka cha 2007, ndinayamba kupanga mapangidwe a masitampu omwe aperekedwa ndi Tsiku la Valentine.

Ikulungidwa kuchokera pazithunzi zapamwamba

Pa Marichi 10, 2018, dziko lonse lidadziwika za imfa ya couster wotchuka. Adapita mwakachetechete, m'maloto, pachaka cha 92, kupulumuka museji yake yosalimba kwa zaka 25. Maliro a Matra adachitidwa mu bwalo lopapatiza la abale ndi okondedwa.

Kukumbuka

Osati buku lina: "Wopatsa: 40 Ans Ans Deve Cironge" (1991), "Hubert de adapatsidwa nthano" (2000), "kutsanulira Audrey Avec Amor" (2017).

Ikulungidwa kuchokera pazithunzi zapamwamba

Mu Marichi 2016, primere ya zolemba zavitary Erika Pelletiin "Hubert de adapatsa" Hubert de adapatsa "moyo pachimake" zinachitika. Wolemba adakwanitsa kusonkhanitsa zinthu zambiri zosangalatsa za moyo ndi ntchito ya matra.

Nyumba yomwe idapatsidwa ikupitiliza kukhala ndi moyo, omwe, osamalira de Zyov, atayang'aniridwa ndi omwe akupanga mafashoni otchuka a John gallian, Alexander McQueen, Ricardo Tishi. Mbiri yonse ya nyumba yodziwika bwino imatha kupezeka patsamba lovomerezeka.