I-Biograge
Izwe lanamuhla libeka izindinganiso: Ukuphila impilo ephumelelayo nejabulisayo, kufanele uthole imfundo ephakeme, kufanele usebenze ngokukhethekile enkampanini yamazwe omhlaba, ushade noma ushade iminyaka engama-30, ube nezingane nebhizinisi lakho njll. Kepha uma ubheka ama-biografikhi wezibalo ezivelele zesikhathi esedlule, kuyacaca ukuthi indlela yabo yokuphila iphikisana nalezi zindinganiso. Thatha, ngokwesibonelo, i-gouturier enkulu kaChristian Diora.Ubuntwana nentsha
Isishayamthetho esizayo semfashini sazalelwa ethekwini lokudoba laseGranville, eliseNormandy (France) ogwini lwaseLa Mansha. Lo mcimbi wenzeka ngoJanuwari 21, 1905. UChristian waba owesibili wezingane ezinhlanu uMaurice Diura no-Isabelle Cardamon. UMaurice uhamba emndenini ocebile, ngaphandle kwalokho, ekuqaleni kwekhulu lamashumi amabili wakwazi ukunyusa imali ngemali yokushushumbisa umanyolo oshushisayo. Ngakho-ke, u-Isabelle akazange asebenze, futhi awenqaba ezinganeni.
Ngo-1911, umndeni wamaKristu waseDiora uqhubekela eParis, lapho uMaurice ethenga khona izindlu nezindawo. Ngokuthatha isinqumo sabazali, izingane zathola imfundo yamabanga aphansi ekhaya. Othisha bagubha ukuthambekela kwesayensi eqondile emfana, ngakho-ke abazali banqume ukuthumela ingane enhlanganweni yezifundo zezepolitiki (kuze kube ngu-1945 - isikole samahhala sesayensi yezepolitiki). UChristian ufika lapho ukuzofunda, kepha ngokushesha akuphonse - ukuhamba ngezinyawo enkundleni yemidlalo yaseshashalazini kanye nemibukiso yobuciko bokuvakasha kubonakala kuthakazelisa kakhulu futhi kusondela kakhulu.
Ngemuva kwalokho uqala ukufunda ukupenda. Ngo-1928, uChristian unquma ukuvula igalari yakhe. Ubaba uyenqaba ukusiza ngokwezezimali, ngakho-ke i-dior encane iqala ukufuna umlingani. Baba ngumngane wakhe wakudala uJean Bonzhak. Igalari yakwaDius noBonzhaka kwakungeyona enkulu kunazo zonke enhlokodolobha, kodwa yabangela inzuzo, ngoba kwakukhona imibukiso yabaculi abanjengoHenri Matisse, uRaul Dufi, kanye nombukiso womsebenzi wePablo Picasso, owenziwe ku Isitayela sobumbano.
Kepha ama-1930 aza - isikhathi esinzima somKristu. Okokuqala, odokotela bathola ukuphambuka kwengqondo kumfowabo futhi kwathatha ukwelashwa. Isinyathelo esilandelayo ukushona kukamama uDuura - umdlavuza. Uyise kaChristian futhi akamelani nomthwalo onjalo, uyayeka ukulandela izinto phezulu, okuholela ekugcineni ebhukwini futhi athengise iningi lezakhiwo. Nangemva kokutheleleka ngesifo sofuba.
Okungenani okuphambukayo ngandlela thile ebubini obuye bawela isabelo sakhe, uDior unquma ukuya eSoviet Union njengesivakashi. Ngalesi sikhathi, unesikhathi sokuvakashela iminyuziyamu yeLeningrad, futhi ajabulele ubuhle beCaucasus nolwandle olumnyama lwasolwandle. Ukuvezwa kohambo kushintsha eminye yemibono yakhe empilweni, ngakho-ke, ukubuyela eParis, uChristian uvala igalari yakhe. Ngeseluleko sabangane isinyathelo esilandelayo ukuvakashela iziqhingi zesiqhingi saseSpain esiseMedithera.
Imfashini nokuklama
Eziqhingini zaseBalearic, ubuKristu buqala ukudweba. Isizathu salokhu iba ngumdlandla wakhe omusha - ukhaphethi. I-Dior idala imidwebo yamakhaphethi, kepha ayikwazi ukwenziwa - abatshalizimali bayenqaba ukutshala imali kulokhu, ngoba bakubheka njengenzuzo engenzi inzuzo ngenxa yokuntuleka kwesidingo.
Ukubuyela emuva enhlokodolobha yaseFrance, uChristian unquma ukuqeda umhlaba wobuciko. Into yokuqala dior iqala ukufuna umsebenzi ekuphathweni, ebhange noma nje ehhovisi. Kepha akukho lutho olungagcwele lo msebenzi - unqatshelwa yonke indawo. Isimo sezezimali sishiya kufanelekile ukuthi sifiswe, ngakho-ke i-dior iyonquma ukubuyela emhlabeni wokupenda ukubona isithombe esithi "Parris Plan" ebhalwe nguRaul Duf ngo-1925.
Ngemuva kokuthengiswa kwe-canvas, ukuthengiswa kwe-metropolitan efulethini efulethini efulethini kufanele kuthengiswe, wonke umndeni, ngaphandle kobuKristu, kuthuthelwa esifundazweni. UCristian ngokwakhe wazinza ngesikhathi sakhe eside uJean Ozanena. Ngaleso sikhathi, u-Ozenne wayengumculi wemfashini odumile futhi wasebenzisana namamagazini athandwayo nemisila emihle kakhulu yeParis. UDora wakuthanda, ngakho-ke uqala ukuthatha lezi zifundo ukuthi athathe izifundo zokufunda ngo-Ozenna uqobo nakuthisha kaMax Kenna.
Impumelelo yokuqala ayizibangeli ukuba lilinde isikhathi eside: UJean Ozenne uqala ukunikela ngomsila nomagazini bomsebenzi weDius (ikakhulukazi amaphethini wezindawo zabesifazane) futhi baziyisa e-bang. Incwadi yokuqala yenzeka ngo-1936 eLe Figaro Isllillyé. Ngemuva nje konyaka, imali engenayo ye-Diora ibanzile, futhi iqala ukususa izindlu zayo.
Donsela izigqoko kuphela eziba nesidina kubuKristu, futhi uya ezingutsheni. Yile misebenzi eshayela umklami wemfashini uRobert Peig. Ngo-1938, basungula ukuxhumana, ngemuva kwalokho uPig unikeza umsebenzi kaDora. UChristian uyavuma futhi wonke unyaka olandelayo usebenza ngaphansi kokuqala kukaRobert. Kepha kuqala impi yezwe yesibili. UDior ungene ebuthweni lezempi ukuze alwe eningizimu yeFrance.
Ngo-1941, ngemuva kokubona izinto ezesabekayo zempi, ubuKristu bubuyela eParis. ULucien Lelong ufunda ngalokhu, i-Robert Peig endala evamile, futhi ngokushesha inikeza umsebenzi we-diory endlini yakhe yemfashini. UChristian uyavuma. Esikhathini esifushane, wakwazi ukukhulisa indlu yemfashini kaLelong emadolweni akhe. Njengophawu lokubonga, uLucien luphakamisa iholo laseDora, elivumela ukuthi kwakamuva ukuvula ilabhorethri (ngokuzayo, isitolo lapho amakha adalwa khona namanzi asendlini azothengiswa ngayo "ku-christian dior parfume").
Ngo-1946, uChristian ushiya uLelong nangokusekelwa kwezindwangu zeMarseille Buisak avule indlu yakhe yemfashini. NgoFebhuwari 12 wonyaka olandelayo, isethulo seqoqo lokuqala le-DIS libanjelwe efeniya eMontaen - Avenue. UKuturier ubiza "ukubukeka okusha" ("ukubukeka okusha").
Kuliqiniso, umqondo omusha ukude neqiniso lokuthi amantombazane nabesifazane balezo zikhathi babegqokwa ngaphambili. Isitayela esihle futhi sothando sasiphikiswa nezingubo ezifanayo nezisebenzayo. UChristian ngokwakhe wabiza leli qoqo ngokucabanga kwemibono yakhe ngowesifazane ofanele nowesifazane. Ukuqoqwa kwaphumelela ezweni lakubo, kepha ozakwabo baseMelika "Ukubukeka okusha" kucasulwa, njengoba kubhalwe ezincwadini ezinamagama.
"Akubongile kangcono emcudweni wokuqala kunokuba unikeza imigqa emibili yokudumisa kowokugcina," uDior wayiphendula.Ngaphezu kwalokho, abaseMelika basheshe banciphise, ngoba amanye amaqoqo aphansi nawo kwadingeka akwenze. Kusukela ngo-1947 kuya ku-1957, uChristian ulimaza ophuthelwe, ededela amaqoqo amabili ngonyaka. Umbukiso ngamunye - okwengeziwe, izingubo ezintsha nezigqoko ezigqoke amagama amnandi anjenge- "cyclone", "tulip" noma "i-terrip" noma i-paris kumenyezelwe ngokusemthethweni inhloko-dolobha yemfashini. Embuzweni wokuthi akwazi kanjani ukufeza ukuthandwa okunjalo, kuphendula uDior:
"Abesifazane banomuzwa ngokwemvelo ukuthi ngifuna ukubenza babe muhle kuphela, kodwa futhi bajabule."UChristian waphumelela, kepha wayengeke ame. Ukukhiqizwa kwemimoya (kususelwa elabhorethri yekhaya uqobo). Amakha athandwa kakhulu yi-Aromas ye- "Miss Dior", "Dorama" ne- "Diorissimo". Ngo-1953, uKristian walawula ukuze azithobe yena, uVivier - ifosholo lomhlaba wonke elidumile, "i-Christian Pior" iqala ukukhiqizwa kwezicathulo. Ngo-1955, iDior isebenza nge-Madrah Daniel Swarovski ngaphezulu kweqoqo lobucwebe elenziwe ngamakristalu ezimayini.
Ungamkhohlwa umKristu ukubambisana nabaholi bemidlalo yaseshashalazini ne-cinema. Emuva ngo-1940, wakwazi ukudala amasudi for play "School of ewela", enikezwe yi-de maturin Theatre, kanti kuma-50s enze imidwebo yemikhiqizo ye-rolan petit. Emhlabeni we-Cinema Dior, i-Dior ikwazile ukukhuphuka nabaqondisi abanjengo-Alfred Hichkok noClaude Otan-Lara, kanye nabalingisi be-Edith Piaf, avoi Gardner, kanye no-Olivia de Haviland noMarlene Diethrich.
Ngemuva kweminyaka futhi ifilimu izosusa ifilimu (hhayi eyodwa) "i-Christian Dior. Umuntu odumile ". Ama-couturies aphindwe kabili aqoka e-Oscar ne-bafta ukuze aklanywe kahle kakhulu wezingubo - Isiteshi se-terini (1955) ne- "Arabesque" (1967ly), ngokulandelana. Omunye umklomelo obalulekile uba ngumyalo weLegion ehlonishwayo, eyi-Diurna enikezwa ngo-1950.
Impilo yomuntu siqu
I-uturirier enhle kwakungu-gay. Uthando lwakhe lokuqala lwalungu-Perrotino wase-Italiya, owayesebenza isikhashana ngumshayeli weChristian. Izizathu zokwahlukana kwazo azikaziwa, kepha ziphoqe i-Diora ekucindezelekeni. Eminyakeni eyalandela, umKristu uzama ukuthola olunye uthando, kodwa kwanhlanga zimuka nomoya - abafana bayenqaba.
Ngakho-ke kwaqhubeka kuze kube ngu-1957, kanti iDior ayihlangane nemodeli yaseNyakatho Afrika uJacques Benitis, owaphendula ubuhlakani. Kwakukhona namahlebezi okuthi i-Dior yayiyinoveli nomfundi we-Pierre Carden wakhe. Kodwa-ke, ngaphandle kwamagama ama-Carden, akukho ukuqinisekiswa.
Ukushona
Ngo-1957, umucu ojabulayo uqala ngobumfihlo bobuKristu. Lapho-ke isinqumo sibonakala sihlala ekudleni ukuze wehlise isisindo. UDior uya ekwelashweni edolobheni elincane laseTuscany (Italy) Montecatini terme, lapho aqala khona ngezinkinga zenhliziyo. Ngo-Okthoba 24 wonyaka ofanayo akuzange.I-Fashion House manje
Ngemuva kokushona kwe-kuturier, indlu yemfashini ayizange ikukhuthazelele ushintsho. Okokuqala, isibalo sabasebenzi "ama-Christian Dior" banda - uma amashumi amahlanu, i-firm equkethe imisebenzi engama-900 (amamodeli enani abasebenzi awafakiwe), okwamanje inani labo lilinganiswa ngu izinkulungwane.
Izinguquko zakamuva zifaka ukuqala kokukhishwa kwamaqoqo amadoda, lokhu kwenzeke ngo-2006. Imikhiqizo yasekhaya kule ndlela iyizingubo nezesekeli.
Ngo-2012, okuthunyelwe komqondisi wemfashini indlu yathatha umklami weBelgian uSimons. Ngemuva kweminyaka engu-4, uMary Graz Kury wamshintsha kulo mkhakha, waba ngumqondisi wowesifazane wokuqala eChristian Dior.
Ukubona iqoqo lendlu yemfashini ka-2017, kanye nesithombe nevidiyo kusuka kumibukiso, udinga ukuya kwiwebhusayithi esemthethweni yenkampani.
Ukukhumbula
Ngenkumbulo yama-movie e-diore angamaKristu ahlungiwe, zombili ubuciko kanye nemibhalo
- 1994 - "Monsieur Dior"
- Ngo-2005 - "I-Christian Dior. Umuntu odumile "
- 2014 - "Dior and I"
- Ngo-2016 - Dior
- 2016 - "Dior. IFrance "