Biography
I-Couturier Iva Wenri De Dese Malibar Saint Saint Saint Saint, esaziwa ngokuba yi-Sairen Laint-Lairent, ebizwa ngokuba ngumzi mveliso wefashoni, inkosana encinci yefashoni yefashoni kunye neklasi enkulu. UNicolas Sarkoz waphawula ukuba i-Saint Laurent yayingowokuqala phakathi koogxa bakhe baphakamisa inqanaba lefashosi kwinqanaba lobugcisa.
Umhlobo kunye ne-Hurieue Kutrier - iPierre Berez - ishwankathelwe phantsi kwe-biedy ye-iva Saint-Lauren, ephawula ukuba i-coco chalff ifuthe kwisiqingatha senkulungwane yamashumi amabini, kunye nesiqingatha se-Saint-Laurent. Wabanika uluntu kwisitayile se-UNEEXEX, ababhinqileyo ababhinqileyo eTuxedo, iibhutsi eziphakamileyo, iibhloko ezibonakalayo kunye nokuThemba. Kwaye owokuqala wamenyelwa kwipodium yamadoda anolusu olumnyama.
Ubuntwana noLutsha
Ulwakhiwo lwexesha elizayo lwempahla yefashoni yazalelwa eAlgeria Oran oran ngehlobo lowe-1936. Utata katata wasebenza yiarhente yeinshurensi, kwaye umama waba yimyuziyam yokuqala ephefumlele ukudalwa kwamaphepha okunxiba. Ngokuhlwa kwakhe sishiya uNyana kunye neentombi ezimbini bebelinde intetho yeqonga. Zoba imizobo yempahla yves yves-laurent ye-lairent iqale kwiminyaka eyi-8, kwaye kwi-11 wayeqhutywa yinqanaba looqongqo. Ewe, ukuze kwakhawuleza wazakhela indawo entle yendlu, enxibe iidoli ezivenkileni ezigxunyekwe kwiflepu epeyintiweyo.
Ekhaya kwakungekho loyiko lokwaleka, "umsebenzi" wase-Iva wabukela umama, oodade nabazala. Imbonakalo efihlakeleyo kwi-kuturier encinci ivelise umdlalo weLouis enkulu "yesikolo sabafazi", indawo yabasetyhini ", indawo entle kunye neesuti zomthamo wesiFrentshi awenziwe.
Emva koko, uSaint-Laurent wavuma ukuba, ukubona iimpahla zabasebenzi beqonga abavela kwi-berar, baqonda ukuba eyona nto iphambili kwisuti, kwaye umfazi owayenxibe ingubo. EAlgeria yves suirent-laurent ephumelele kwikholeji nakwi-Lyceum, enza ugxile kwizifundo ozithandayo - isiFrentshi nesiLatin. Ababhali abanefuthe kwiWorld Vimeve Verview, ebizwa ngokuba yi-Andre Zhida naseMarseille Andes, benza iMatisse evela kumagcisa.
Uyilo kunye nefashoni
Ngomhla we-17, umfana wafika kwi "capitam yefashoni" kwaye wabhalisa kwiikhosi zokuzoba "ukusuka kwiKutur". Impumelelo yokuqala yeza kunyaka ofanayo: ingubo emnyama emnyama, umzobo odalwe nguYives Saint-Laurent, uthathe indawo yokuqala kukhuphiswano. Kwiminyaka emibini kamva, ngo-1955, umfana oneminyaka eli-19 ubudala wathabatha umncedisi weDiora yamaKristu. Ngo-1957, intloko yendlu yefashoni yafa. Kwiminyaka emibini yokusebenzisana, i-diorke kwitalente eselula, ngoko abanini bencwadi yenze ukubheja kwi-Iva Saint-Lauren, ephazamisa iCoutirier eneminyaka engama-21 isikhundla soMlawuli we-ART.
Ekuqaleni kuka-1958, uMyili wavelisa ingqokelela yetyala kwinkundla leyo, apho i-Iva Saint-Lauren yaphefumlela isiRashiya. Akukho mntu wayelindele i-furor enjalo: Ukusuka kwi-Iva yayilinde ukuqhubeka komgca we-Diora - i-LICHEED i-Silhouette. Kwaye intsha yazisa i-anyanisi entsha ngokupheleleyo - i-a-silhouette. Iingubo ezimfutshane ze-trapezoidal, zijijekile kwilaphu elihambayo kunye nesilika, "walinda" umzimba obhinqileyo kwaye akazange enze isicaka esiqhelekileyo. Ngosuku olulandelayo, emva kwenkcazo-ntetho yeTabloids, bayibhala loo nto yves suint-laurent kunye ne-sarance yakhe "i-France."
Ngehlobo lowe-1959, umyili waya eMoscow kwinkampani yeshumi elinambini lamadoda, enguvulindlela womzi-mveliso wefashoni waseFrance eSoviet Union. Kunyaka olandelayo, uMatrick omncinci wabiza inkonzo yomkhosi kwaye wathunyelwa eAfrika. Uvavanyo lomkhosi wemikhosi yves eves-laurent akakwazanga ukuma: Emva kweentsuku ezingama-20 kwakudayiswa emva koqhawulo-mtshato kunye nokulaliswa esibhedlele. Lo mfana waphathwa ngomoyiki wombane kwaye "amalungiselelo onyango anzima kwezonyango, emva koko waphulukana neekhilogram ezingama-35.
Ukubuyela kwindlu yefashoni, yves-laurent uLaint-Laurent weza nengqokelela entsha yasentwasahlobo yeNtwasahlobo "yeHipster", eyaziswa nge-1960s. Iijekethi ezinqamlezileyo zenziwe nge-crocodile lesikhumba kunye neengubo ze-mink ezinamatyala alomeleleyo abanoloyiko ekhaya: Ingqokelela ibonakala ngathi ijonge kakhulu i-Aveney kwaye inobungozi. I-Saint-Lauren igxothwe, endaweni ye-cautrier egqithisileyo ukuba ibe ngu-Baran oqiqayo uBiran. Ixhase i-pierre yomyili egxothiweyo ePierre Abherge. Uye wanceda ukujamelana nokuvuthuza kwaye uphume ophumeleleyo: yves sairent-laurent waphumelela imbuyekezo yemali yokuziqhelanisa nemvumelwano.
Indlu yefashoni ysl.
Ukufumana umtyali-mali omtsha - uMark Sorponer mar birson - yves sairent-laurent kunye ne-pierre berez bafumana indlu yabo yefashoni kunye ne-LSL yophawu lwe-YSL. Phambi kokuba ingqokelela yokuqokelelwa kwengqokelela ye-1962, iiParissia zazibhangisiwe ngokusilela okuzayo, ukukholelwa ukuba umyili wefashoni ubengenamali yokubekwa. Kodwa oovimba baposwa: umgca omtsha wokunxiba ngomoya wexesha kunye ne-silhouettes ehlombe i-Francoisa Sagan kunye neBaroness de Rothschild.
Ngo-1965, yves faint-lairent wazisa iququzeleli yoMhlabo "uMondrian", echaza ukuba wayediniwe kukuhlwayela abafazi bezigidi. I-silhouethet yempahla enemizobo yejometri ye-Getherlands Artist pina Mondrian imangaliswe umhlaba wefashoni. Kwingqokelela, umyili wasebenzisa umsebenzi we-Dazmeir Malevich ne-serzh polyakova. Umzobo wokunxiba iingubo - ukungashicileli, kodwa uqhawulwe amaqhekeza elaphu. Ingcinga yayithathwa ngabalingane baka-Saint-Laurean zaseSauren, zenza iitoliki zabo, kodwa imvelaphi yombono yayiyinto eyamhlophe e-Laurent.
Ngo-1966, i-YSL yabhiyozela ukuvulwa kweVenkile yokuqala yeBoutique enempahla ye-roste-a-i-rive, kwi-fuuche ye-rive, apho i-vollodumt, khona i-vollodumts, abafundi kunye nohlaziyo luzinzisile). Igama lalichaziwe yinguqu yotshintsho olwenziwa yi-Laurent Lairent yaziswa kumzi-mveliso wefashoni: abafazi bekhukuliseka banxibe iisuti zamadoda ajongeka ngathi ngesondo kwaye enomdla.
Kunyaka kamva, ingqokelela ye "Tuxedo" yenzekile, eyinto yves-laurent "igqityiwe" idumeri yefashoni yoosolusapho. Kwi-Wordrobe yeWebhusayithi yabasetyhini yabonakala "izinto" zabantu "- i-tuxedo, i-cusker impahla, iijacket kwisitayile" safari ", ii-ovolor kunye neejekethi ze-booster. Kodwa ezi modeli, ziboleke "inkalipho, azizange zihlutha abafazi ngokwesondo.
Ingqokelela "I-Libraruss" ka-1971 yaba yeyona nto icaphukisayo, inamathela entlokweni yombhali ukugxeka okungagungqiyo. Kumgca we-Suits Matra, i-Cekiasso Paloma ephefumlelweyo. Ngokuphatheleleni okufihlakeleyo kwaye woyike iimvavanyo, umfazi wathenga isuti ye-40s kwimarike yaseFlea, wabetha i-Iva Saint-Laurent. Kwinqambi, abafazi bapapashwa kwiingubo ezifana neMfazwe yesibini yeHlabathi.
Enye Ndithelekelele ukuba waphefumlela Saint Laurent kwi ingqokelela "Librason" yaba provocateur ezaziwayo-kakuhle kwaye Popifier Ostolev Marlene eDietrich. Owona mdala wayenomsindo: bakhumbula iminyaka yamaNazi. Iitights ezimnyama, izicathulo zeqonga kunye ne-makegu eqaqambileyo yefashoni yefashoni ephefumlelweyo kunye nabasetyhini bokuziphatha okulula kwihlathi le-boulogne. Kodwa kwiShift Shftwal, ukugxekwa ngokugxeka ngequbuliso kwabakho kwi-YSL: yves 'zika-Ents "kwi-Saint-Laurent-Laurent kwakhona kuxele imeko, ukuba ngamanyathelo amabini ngaphambili.
Umhleli wefashoni uDiashon Vrilalyland wathi uKuturier "unendlela ekhethekileyo yomlingo kwabasetyhini," kwaye nantoni na enguMavelo, ifashoni yeminyaka iya kuhamba emva kwakhe. Ngo-1976, yves faint-laurent yazisa i-ballets yaseRussia kunye nokuqokelelwa kwe-Opera kunye nokunxanelwa kwezinto ezintsha, awayenethiyeleni yaseRussia, i-Ballet Sergei Dyajileev kunye neenjongo zesizwe. I-Podium ye-Podium Deded ubuhle kwi-ocky "ye" peasant "kunye nemfazwe kunye negolide yegolide.
1990 kwaphawulwa yingqokelela inani elo Madre, lulindele care ekhawulezayo, enikelwe abantu bakhe intanda - abadlali, abadanisi, abaculi. Ndingathi ngokulula yves ye-saint-lairent kunye nabalandeli kunye noxolo lwefashoni ngoJanuwari 2002. Umboniso wengqokelela yokugqibela wabanjwa kwiziko laseGeorge Pompidou. UFerewell ukuya eMaeestro, iminyaka engama-40 ubudala wajoyina kwaye wabhala ifashoni, waba ngumsitho wesizwe.
I-cosmetics kunye ne-Pepefume-esinye isahluko soyilo oluqaqambileyo waseSaint-Laurent. Ngo-1971, inkwenkwezi yeshishini lefashoni yehlabathi lalibonisa "i-opium" ye-opium ". Intengiso yajika yaba njengento evunyiweyo ngokwayo: kwinkcazo yemimoya, i-Iv Saint-Laurent yatyhilwa. Kwixa elizayo, indlu yangasese kunye ne-fiefremed "i-opium" ipapashi ivangeli, i-rupert everet kunye nendawo enobunkunkqele yeCouturier yeCoutrier yahamba phantsi.
Ubomi Buqu
I-Pierre Berez yayingumhlobo, oliqabane kunye nomthandi we-Iva Saint-Laurent. Ebudeni-1970s, inoveli iphela, kodwa ubudlelwane kunye nentsebenziswano yeshishini ihleli. Ngaphambi nje kokuba kusweleke uMatira, esi sibini saqukumbela umtshato waseburhulumenteni.
Yves suint-laurent wayethandana ne-karl lagques jagques de bashker. Lo mfana wenzeka kwintsapho efundileyo, wahluleke ngenkangeleko yomtsalane kunye nothando lwamaqela ehlabathi. UJacques malunga neminyaka eli-12 ubudala wayenobudlelwane neLagtfefeld, kodwa emva koko waya eSairen. Emva kweminyaka emi-6, uJacques de wankrha uyafa ngenxa ye-AIDS.
Isifundo esingaqhelekanga se-Iva Saint asizange sibe ngumqobo wokuthanda abafazi: Ukuboleka iimpahla zamadoda, iziqhamo, isitayile se-UNEXIC Wayengafuni ukuguqula umfazi kwindoda. Ibhulukhwe kunye neejikethi zesikhumba kwi-Saint Laint Lairent "Ukuphefumla" ngesini, iijekethi kunye neempahla zeSfari zimangalisa kakhulu kwaye zigxininise iifom.
Abasetyhini iva Saint-Lauren ibizwa ngokuba yiCatherine Denev, Ceasso Peoquins, i-veraquins, vera von lendorf) kunye noLulu De Lalez.
Ukufa
Iminyaka emithandathu edluleyo yobomi bukaMaiestro ichithe kwindawo yokugcina i-ulramarinic eMarrakesh. Yves sairent-laurent emkile kwimicimbi ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-1980s ngenxa yeengxaki zempilo: ICouturier ihlwempuzekile kwaye inyangwa. Ngo-1992, uBerge wabhengeza ukuhamba kwe-Iva Saint-Laurent kunye "ukuphela kwefashoni ephezulu", kodwa ukutyeshelwa kokugqibela kwimicimbi yenzekile emva kweminyaka eli-10. Iingxaki zezezimali zawa kwindlu ye-YSL. UCouturier wasweleka ngeCawa ngokuhlwa ekuqaleni kwehlobo lowama-2008 eParis, owabona inyuka kwaye iwele. Unobangela wokusweleka kwe-Iva Saint-Laurent yayiyinto yengqondo.I-Farewell kwi-Switserter yeFashoni yeHlabathi yenzeka kwiCaris Cawe ye-Saint-roche. I-Prami Wyva Saint-Laurent ikhutshwe ngegadi yakhe ethandwayo kwiVili yeVilla "Mazhorel" eMarrakesh, apho wayekuthanda ukuhlala khona kwi-III ye-III). Iifilimu ezimbini zasuswa malunga nomsebenzi "wefashoni yaphakade": "yves sairent-laurent" jalil lespré kunye "ne-saint-laurent. Isitayile-ndi "Berrão Bonene. Zombini ziphuma ngo-2014.
Imeko yeLizwe namhlanje
Ngo-1999, yves fairent-laurent yafumana indlu ye-Italian Gucci, iphathiswe ukuphuhlisa ingqokelela ye-Ford. I-Couturier yasebenza ekudalweni komgca omtsha de kube ngu-2004, emva konakekelo, idluliselwa kwiStefano Pilai. Ukususela ngo-2011 ukuya ku-2013, uMlawuli oLawulayo wendlu yefashoni yves faint laurent paris yaba nguBelgian. Ngexesha lokukhokelwa kwakhe ebusika bomlawuli weYilo luka-2012, uEdie Sluman waqeshwa umphathi-mkhosi wokuyilo. Ehlotyeni lonyaka, i-svanima yaphinda yabizwa ngomgca kwi-Saint Lairent Paris.
Ngo-2012, i-YSL Pepers idale isiqholo seziqholo nge-shorttosto nekhulu. I-connoisseurs ibizwa ngokuba yi-Pepfuu "i-Inteistoyto yobufazi": "bavulele" amanqaku aluhlaza, "entliziyweni" yabo ", egqitywe yimithi" chords ".
Ngo-2016, uSlivermanna watshintsha uMyili uAnthony wagodlo. Ngo-2017, i-vakcquello idityaniswe kunye nemiboniso yengqokelela yamabhinqa kunye neyabasinda yexesha lasekwindla. Kwingqokelela entsha, uMyili wazisa isiketi esimfutshane, ibhulukhwe evela kwi-vinyl, i-corsets kwaye ibolekwe yi-yves ye-wairent ye-bie-bie. I-vakccarello izakujika iluhlaza kwi-garmoshka. Izindlu zefashoni ezintsha zingathengwa kwiwebhusayithi esemthethweni. Amaxabiso eendlela zempahla yempahla, iingxowa kunye nezihlangu ziyaguquka "ziguqulelwe" kwidemokhrasi.
Iikowuti
- "Ukutyhubela iminyaka endaziqondayo ukuba eyona nto ibalulekileyo kwisinxibo ngumfazi omenza."
- "Ngobu bomi ndiyazisola ngento enye - ukuba i-jean ayizanga nam."
- "Iingubo kufuneka ziphantsi kobukrelekrele bomfazi, hayi okwahlukileyo."
- "Uthando lelona nyango lihle kakhulu. Kodwa kulula ukubakho. "
- "Iingubo zam zenzelwe abafazi abanako ukuhamba ukusuka kwityesi yamashumi amane."
- "Kwimini enye" entle "kwirediyo evakaliswayo ukuba ndifile. I-collons yentatheli yabaleka kum. Kwakuyimfuneko ukutsho ukuba bubuxoki bonke: Apha ndiyaphila kwaye ndinempilo. Kodwa ngesizathu esithile babengafuni ukundikholelwa kwaphela, nangona bandibona ngamehlo abo. "
- "Ezonambambatho zentokazi yomfazi yimbonakalo yendoda enothando. Kodwa kwabo bahlutyulwa olo lonwabo, ndikho.
- "Ifashoni iyadlula, isitayile sikaNaphakade."