U-Yuber de Liveshi-Ifoto, Biography, ubomi bomntu, unobangela wokufa, ifashoni

Biography

Ilifa leNkosi ye-jubera de liveshi yefashoni ephezulu ayisiyonto inkulu, into ebaluleke kakhulu kwaye yahlukile. Yaba yisampulu yokufumana incasa kunye nokuhlaziywa, okwaziyo ukuzisa i-aristocrac eyinyani kunye nomphathiswa wezobuqhetseba. Umyili wefashoni waphila ubomi obuninzi obugudileyo, ukushiya indlu yefashoni yeLegi ibimbile igama, kunye nezinto zonqulo kunye nezisombululo ezihlala zisaphila kuphuculwe ukuqokelelwa kwabaqulunqi abancinci kunye nefashoni kwihlabathi liphela.

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I-Yumber James Marsneiil taffn de Zhulani yazalwa nge-21 kaFebruwari ngo-1927 eBeauvais, eFrance. Abazali bomyili wefashoni bexesha elizayo batshata eluthandweni olukhulu, usapho lwabo lwaba yimodeli ehambelana nokudibanisa i-aristoracy kunye neklasi etyebileyo.

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Utata uLucien Taffn de Zhuvani - inzala ye-Venetian Ardinect, unyana kaMarquis. Ngexesha lemfazwe yehlabathi yokuqala, kwafunda umqhubi weli phulo, walwa ngaphambili kwaye lonke ubomi bakhe obufutshane banikelwa kulo msebenzi wothando.

Umama uBetris Badden - Intombi yoBugcisa boBugcisa baseFransi, owayengusomashishini ongenayo, elungiselela ishishini lokuveliswa kwamatapedries. Utat'omkhulu uBeatrice wayedume ngexesha lokupeyinta i-pierre adolf adolf banjon.

UBeatrice noLucien baba ngabazali boonyana ababini: isikhulelo esibizwa ngokuba nguJean-Claude, omncinci-yaber. Utata de Zhivanusus akakhumbulanga, wasweleka xa ilanga lineminyaka emi-2 ubudala. Ngokutsho kolunye uhlobo xa usenza umsebenzi weenqwelomoya, kwelinye, ukusuka kwi-swiblemic super ye-spanity, engxamisekileyo ngelo xesha eYurophu.

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Ukuphakamisa oonyana bakaBeatrice kuncede uMana uLucien - uMargherit. Umakhulu wesahluko sokuqala wazisa kancinci ehamba nomsebenzi weenkcukacha, wavumela ingcwaba lokudlala kunye neeflethi zelaphu, ezigcinwe kwibhasikithi yokuthunga.

Ngo-1937, uBeatrice wayenethamsanqa noonyana kwi-Adstr Universali ye-ART kunye neengcali kwiParis. Apha iminqweno yabafana yahlulahlulwa: UJean-Claude wanxiba iisampulu ezincinci zengcinga yobunjineli, kwaye i-YUGS ayikwazanga ukwahlukana nendalo yeCouturiers yaseFrance

Imbono yokuba unokwenza ubuhle obunjalo, bahlala ngokuqinileyo kwintloko yenkwenkwe. Waqala ukuzoba, evelisa imigca yokuba ngumsebenzi. Kwangelo xesha, i-fantasy yakhe engacacanga iphuhlisiwe, uYer ugqibezele izitayile ezineembono zakhe, ephukile ngokuchukumisa isilika esihambayo kunye nelolona lwazi lihle.

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Nangona kunjalo, la maphupha aphazamisako, owoyikekayo, ongenathemba lokwenyani. Iminyaka yeHlabathi yeHlabathi yesibini kaZhivani ifumene nzima: Utata wasweleka, umama wathathwa kuwo nawuphi na umsebenzi omnyama, kwaye oonyana banokunceda umfazi. Iphupha lincedise ukuba uMzantsi-shishina akazange aphule kwaye anyuke. Kwaye ngo-1945, kwakamsinya nje emva kokuba uParis kwakhona wayenobomi onoxolo, waya apho ngenjongo yokuba ngumfundi oyifayishini.

Okwalo mzuzu usapho lwavukela. "I-Aristocrat yeNoine ukuba ibe ngumthumeli "- Esi yayisisithembiso sabantu esibathandayo esimbona umntu ophumeleleyo. Phantsi koxinzelelo lwabo, lo mfana wangena kwisikolo sikazwelonke sobugcisa, kwaye ngokuhambelana nophando waqala ukuqonda iziseko zezakhono ze-couture.

Ifashoni

Kulutsha lwangaphambili, uYure wayengumfundi weMatric enjalo njengeJacques, Robert Peig, Lucien Lelong. Ukuvuyisa okhethekileyo kunye nokuhlonela kukaDe Zhivuliva, ukusebenza ne-Elsa Skiaparelli, esele injalo ngexesha lobutsha waba sisithixo sakhe. Ngo-1947-1951, i-Aristocrac yaselula yayingumfundi wemodeli yefashoni kunye nomphathi weBoutique.

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UDe Zhivovishi ushiya iBaendy ngo-1952 kwindlela yovuyo kwaye ivulekelwe ixesha elide - ivula eyalo yendlu yefashoni eyanikelwa, ukuba yi-coutrion ye-paris ye-paris. Intsapho iyanceda le nto, ikholelwa kwitalente yeGum kwaye iphumeze imali yentsapho. Nangona kunjalo, kwakusekho imali encinci, ke, ukuba umboniso wokuqala, uMyili wakhetha amalaphu angabizi kunye nemisebenzi, esenza ukubheja, esenza ukubheja kwimvelaphi ye-croy kunye ne-leson.

Kwaye akazange alahleke: Idiliya yengqokelela yayiyibhlawuzi yeBettin, eyayifuna ukuhlonitshwa kweBetina yokuqala yaseBetina Graziani - i-Coutrier yayiyimodeli, kunye nomncedisi weCoutrier. Imodeli yeBlouse ene-roffles enomtsalane, ethatha isigqibo malunga nemikhono, yaba yi-odolo kwaye yanika umyili wefashoni kunye nabathengi bokuqala nabathengi bethu, uninzi lwabo lwanaphakade lushiye isitayile esihle kakhulu.

Ngo-1953, abantu abaqhelene nabo abaqhelenekeleyo benzeka kwi-biographies yeJuber de Zhivani. Eyokuqala inoMama weCristobal Balenciagoy. Umyili wefashoni waseSpain iminyaka emininzi uye waba ngumcebisi womFrentshi, wamfundisa ukuba asebenze nombala kwaye acinge ngemifanekiso emincinci yefashoni. ISikolo Balencciaga iba ngamava anzima kunye nendawo yokugcina izinto ezihleliweyo, awazenzayo kuwo wonke umsebenzi wokudala.

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Umhlobo wesibini womsebenzisi ovele ngeli xesha yayili-Aucress Audrey Hepburn. Kwaye nangona intlanganiso yawo yokuqala yayiyinto ephosakeleyo

"Wayengaqhelekanga. Wabhala eGenations wabhala e-Intermous wabhala wathi: "Ukuziphatha okunobunkunkqele kuye kwandoyisile kwasemlo.

I-Audrey ngokungxamisekileyo ifuna iimpahla zefilimu "eSabrina", apho wadlala indima enkulu. Kwakungekho xesha lokuthunga, kwaye uDe Zhivanusha wacebisa umba ongumThetho ukuba akhethe iimodeli kwintanda yazo. Ngenxa yoko bakhethwa ngaphezulu kwempahla engama-20 elungiselelwe, kubandakanya isinxibo esimhlophe esimhlophe, sibandakanyeke ngesilika esimnyama, esithatha isigqibo sefilimu enkulu yothando.

Ifilimu yefilimu ye-billy, eyatyunjelwa ngokwamanqanaba aliqela, yathatha i-palatette ebaluleke kakhulu ngenxa yezixhobo. Nangona kunjalo, imbasa yahamba ngomkhangeli kwi-Edith e-Edith yayinayo, ibhaliswe ngokusemthethweni kwiFilimu yefilimu. Kwaye ke iya kuba ligama le-de Zhivani alibandakanyeki kwimpumelelo ye-Oscar, ukuba ayikho i-hepburn. Ukuzimisela kwaye kuyagqiba, ngaphandle kokuthamba kwakhe, imbambano yabhengeza igama lombhali wempahla kunye nokunyanzelisa izilungiso kwiprotocol yomsitho. Kwaye ke kwakhona wandicengala kumyili wefashoni.

Ukususela ngaloo mhla, imbali yohlobo olumangalisayo lweCouturier kunye neMyuziyam yaqala, eyakhokelela kwi-cinema edibeneyo. Ukususela ngoku kuzo zonke iimpahla zenkanyezi zenza de zhivani. Impahla yakhe edumileyo inokubonwa kwimizobo ethi "I-funny morsoshka" (1957), "isidlo sakusasa eTiffany" (1961), "Uba njani isigidi" (1966).

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Ngenxa yoko, i-AudRewad iminyaka emininzi yaba bubuso bendlu yefashoni enikezwe, kwaye ngo-1957, kuzuko lwayo 'lavakalisa "kunye nevumba elitsha le-coutrier, indlela enobugcisa. Imimoya yokuqala ye-L'ODDit ("inqatshelwe") iphawulwe ukuqala kolwahlulo lwe-Parfuum (i-Parfuum "," i-Oryoma "," ayinantsingiselo "). Namhlanje akuvelisanga njengamanzi alondolozo kunye namanzi endlu yangasese, kodwa nakwiimveliso ezikhathazayo (iikhredi, i-posmetics, njl.), Kunye ne-cosmetics, i-powder, iblush, njl. Njl.).

Ke, ngo-1957, i-cocoon edumileyo ye-cocoon yadalwa (i-SACC). Ikwakhululekile ngabom kwaye incitshisiwe ezantsi, ifihla umgca we-waist, owawokuchongwa kuphela ukuba ugxininise. Indlela yokuguqula ithetha into enye - ixesha lokuba wenze iingubo zabafazi azimhle kuphela, kodwa zikhululekile. Yi-de Zhivani ebalisa kwicala lesikhokelo "Pret-A-Vert" kwaye ibonelela ngobuninzi bokunxiba okubekwe kakuhle.

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Enye into entsha evela kumyili wokuyila yaba ziitoti zexesha elidlulileyo-jacket + isiketi. Le mpahla ivumele ukuyiguqula, inxibe nezinye izinto zeWebhu.

Ekupheleni kwe-60s - ekuqaleni kwama-60s, de zhivysi ivula isikhokelo somongo wendoda kwaye ihamba ukusuka eParis ukuya eNew York. Kodwa uzuko luphambi kwengxaki enetalente, kwaye apha sele lilindele i-connelting yonke yabaxumi ababalaseleyo. Phakathi kwazo kunye neenkwenkwezi zeHollywood Elizab, iMarlene Detrich, kunye namanenekazi bokuqala kaRhulumente-I-Princess Monat Gradeline Jacqueline.

Ngeli xesha, inkosi isasebenza nge-cinema: Kwiminyaka yokuqala yama-70, wenza ukuphuma kwendlu yeBardo kwifilimu "ukuba uJuan wayengumfazi" kwaye lo msebenzi ugqibezela ubugcisa obukhulu.

Ngo-1988, i-Kuturier ithengise indlu yakhe yefashoni yeShishini laseFrance Bernard Arnord Arnord Arnard Arnard Arnard Arnard Arnar (Louis Vuitton Mvnessy). Ngeli xesha, indlu yayilukhuni ngempumelelo, phakathi kweemveliso zayo yayingeyompahla kunye neziqholo, kodwa neengxowa, izinto, izinto eziyinqabileyo.

Ngexesha lentengiselwano, kwamiselwa ukuba iminyaka esi-7, uYure de Liveshi uza kuhlala eyindoda yobugcisa kunye nomyili ophambili weNdlu. NgokwesiVumelwano, iMadreman ishiye le posi ngo-1995, ivakalisa ukuba wayengasakwazi ukusebenza ngenzondelelo efanayo. Umyili wefashoni uye wangenamelela ngokufa komculo wakhe u-Audrey Hepburn ngo-1993.

Ubomi Buqu

Ngaphandle kwento yokuba ixesha elingasesinyayo apho ixesha le-de zhivovishi kunye ne-hepburns laziswa kunye, kunye nee-hugs zabantu ababini bokuyila phambi kweekhamera, ubudlelwane babo babunobuhlobo nge-platonic. I-Couturier intwana yokuphuma kwemitshato emibini ka-Aunting, kwaye inxibe nezihlandlo zoonyana bakhe.Imigca kwimifanekiso ye-Getty

Ubomi bobuqu befashoni ayizange isebenze, akazange atshate kwaye akazange aqalise abantwana. Umatshini ophuzi, uzama ukufumana izizathu zobomi balo, wasityibilikisi kwisifundo esingengomda, umyili wade wafumana umRoma neBalenciag. Nangona kunjalo, akukho uqinisekiso olunikiweyo.

Ukufa

Kwiminyaka yakutshanje, uDe Zhivani wayephila kwi-Entied Endled Lest: eqokele i-Antique, enyamekela igadi emangalisayo, ethathe inxaxheba kwimiboniso eyahlukileyo kwaye waphunyezwa iiprojekthi zobugcisa. Ngo-2007, umzekelo, ndaphuhlisa uyilo lwezitampu zokuposa ezikhutshwe ngoSuku lweValentine.

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Ngo-Matshi 10, 2018, umhlaba wonke ufumanise ngokufa komkhweli odumileyo. Uye wathula, ephupheni, ngonyaka we-92mnd wobomi, esisinda kwimyuziyam yeminyaka engama-25. Umngcwabo weMatrani wabanjwa kwisangqa esimxinwa kwizalamane kunye nabathandekayo.

Imemori

Ayisiyo incwadi enye: "I-Whought: 40 I-Thubert De Revy: (2000)," I-Hubert De Revchy: i-viubert de fiech theute Mon "(2017).

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Ngo-Matshi ngo-2016, i-Premiere yefilimu yoxwebhu e-Erika Pellerexore "Hubert De Revchy: ubomi kwi-hauted couture" yenzeka. Umbhali ukwazile ukuqokelela iinyani ezininzi ezinomdla ngobomi kunye nomsebenzi we-matri.

Indlu efihliweyo iyaqhubeka nokuphila, othi, emva kokhathalelo lwe-De Zhivov, yayiyintloko yefashoni yefashoni kaJohn Galliano, Elexander Mcishi. Imbali epheleleyo yendlu edumileyo inokufumaneka kwiwebhusayithi esemthethweni.