Taariikh nololeed
Coutrier Iva Iva Henri don Mathiere, oo loo yaqaanno sidii Yes Saint-Laurent, waxaa loo yaqaan warshadaha moodada kacaanka, oo ah amiir yar iyo caadi ah weligeed ah. Nicolas Sarkozy ayaa xustay in Saint Laurent uu ahaa kii ugu horreeyay ee asxaabta ka mid ah asxaabta uu kor u qaaday heerka fashion heerka farshaxanka.
Saaxiib iyo saaxiibkood Kuturier - Pierre Berez - oo lagu soo koobay taariikhda hal abuurka ee taariikhda Iva Lauren, oo muujinaya in Coco Chanel ay saameyn ku yeelatay nus qarnigii labaatanaad, iyo qeybtii labaad - Saint-Laurent. Wuxuu ku siiyay aadanaha qaabka Unugisx, dumarka labisan ee tuxedo, kabo sare, hawo-mareenno hufan iyo dhar-xireenno. Oo kii ugu horreeyayna waxaa lagu casuumay jihada maandooriyaha oo leh maqaar madow.
Caruurnimada iyo dhalinyarada
Mustaqbalka "Architect" ee dharka moodada ah wuxuu ku dhashay Algerian Oran xagaagii 1936. Aabaha aabaha aabihiis oo uu shaqeeyay wakiilka caymiska, hooyaday waxay u noqotay in laga yeeshey ninka ugu horreeya ee dhiirigaliyay abuurista sawirrada dharka. Caawadeeda oo ka tagtay Wiilkii iyo laba gabdhood ayaa sugaya soojeedinta tiyaatarka. Sawirro sawirro ah dharka Yes Saint-Laurent ayaa bilaabatay 8 sano jir, 11na waxaa loo qaaday 11-kii uu qaatay masraxa tiyaatarka. Haa, si dhakhso ah waxay dhisaysaa muuqaalka guriga, oo ku labisan caruusadaha wax lagu kariyo ee ka dhalisay rinjiyeynta rinjiyeynta.
Guriga dhexdiisa wax cabsi ah kama qabin ka weyn, "bandhig" "IVA si farxad leh ayaa daawaday hooyadeed, walaalo iyo ilma adeer. Muuqaal aan macquul ahayn oo ku saabsan katirsan Kuturier ayaa soo saaray ciyaartii Louis Khaave "ee iskuulka" Louis Khaver ", muuqaalka haweenka", muuqaalka iyo ku habboon ee fanaanka Faransiiska ee Christian Bear Bear Bear Bear Bear Bear Bear Bear Bear Bear Bear Bear.
Goor dambe, Saint-Laurent ayaa qirtay in, taas oo arkeen dharka timaca tiyaatarka ee ka soo jeeda Berrar, waxay ogaadeen in waxa ugu weyn ee ku habboon uu yahay nafta, iyo naag dhar ku jirta. Magaalada Algeria Yes Saint-Laurent ayaa ka qalin jabiyay kulliyadda iyo LyENceum, taasoo diiradda saareysa maadooyinka ay jecel yihiin - Faransiiska iyo Latin. Qorayaasha saameyn ku yeeshay adduunka adduun, oo loo yaqaan Andre Zhida iyo Marseille proust, ayaa ka dhigay macaashka farshaxanka.
Naqshadeynta iyo Fashion
Markii 17 jir ah, ninka yari ayaa yimid "caasimada Fasee" waxaana uu iska diiwaangeliyay koorsooyin koorsooyin ah "ka timid Kukur". Guushii ugu horreysay waxay timid isla sanadkaas: dhar is biirsaday madow, sawirkii uu abuuray Yes Saint-Laurent, wuxuu qaatay booska ugu horeeya tartanka. Laba sano ka dib, sanadkii 1955, nin da 'yar oo 19 jir ah ayaa kaaliye u diray shaqaalaha Christian Diora. Sannadkii 1957, madaxa guriga fadeedka ayaa dhintay. Laba sano oo iskaashi ah, Dior wuxuu ku arkay kaaliyaha kaaliyaha dhallinyarada, sidaa darteed milkiilayaasha astaantii waxay sharad ka dhigtay IvA Saint-Laurean, oo ay ku wareejisay 21-jirka Cinwaanka ee agaasimaha farshaxanka.
Bilowgii 1958, naqshadeeye ayaa soo bandhigay aruurinta kulankiisii ugu horreeyay ee maxkamadda maxkamadda, taas oo Iva Saint-Laurea uu ku dhiirrigeliyay muraayadda ruushka. Qofna ma filanayo in furxaddaas oo kale: IVA waxay sugeysay sii wadida safka Dora - foosha foosha ku habboon. Oo ku cusubna wuxuu soo bandhigay basal cusub oo cusub - a-silhouette. Dharka gaagaaban ee gaagaaban, ayaa laga soo dhejiyaa dharka qulqulaya iyo xariir, "ayaa sugayay" jidhka dumarka oo ma uusan dhigin lahjadda caadiga ah ee dhexda. Maalinta ku xigta, ka dib soo bandhigida tabdhiska Paris, waxay ku qoreen in Yes Saint-Laurent Lauret oo uu Saratanfanns "badbaadiyay France."
In xagaagii 1959, naqshadeeye u soo baxeen inay Moscow ee shirkadda oo ah laba iyo toban mannequins, noqday horyaal oo ka mid ah warshadaha Faransiis Fashion ee Midowga Soofiyeeti. Sannadka soo socda, Young Matra ayaa ugu yeeray adeega ciidamada oo loo diray Afrika. Tijaabada shirkadda sidaha milatariga Yes Saint-Laurent ma istaagi karo: 20 maalmood kadib ayaa la xasuuqay kadib markii la burburiyey dareemayaasha iyo isbitaal la dhigey. Ninka dhalinyarada ah waxaa lagu daaweeyay shoog koronto iyo "adag" diyaarinta caafimaadka, ka dib markii uu lumiyay ilaa 35 kiilogaraam.
Ku laabashada guriga moodada, Yes Saint-Laurent ayaa la yimid aruurinta cusub ee gu'ga "Hispster", oo uu soo bandhigay 1960-yadii. Jaakadaha mootooyinka ee jabay ee ka samaysan maqaarka maqaallada iyo jaakadaha jilicsan ee gacmaha jilicsan waxay ka baqaan maal-gashadeyaasha muxaafidka ee guriga: ururinta waxay u muuqatay inay aad u jeceshahay-gadde iyo raaxo leh. Saint-Laurean ayaa shaqada ka dhacay, isagoo bedelay Coutririer xagjirka ah inuu saadaalin karo Mark Baran. Waxay taageertay saaxiibkii naqshadeeye ee naqshadeeya Pierre BRE. Wuxuu gacan ka geysanayay inuu la qabsado dhaxalka oo ka baxo guuleystaha: Yes Saint-Laurent ayaa ku guuleystey magdhawga guryaha ee qandaraaska sharci darada ah.
Guriga moodada ysl.
Helitaanka maalgashi cusub - Ganacsade Mareykan ah ayaa calaamad cusub oo Mareykan ah - Yes Saint-Laurent iyo Pierre Berez ayaa helay gurigooda moodada ee leh astaanta YSL. Kahor soo bandhigida aruurinta dhamaadka Janaayo 1962, Parisians-ka waxaa lagu jaray fashilka soo socda, isagoo rumeysan in nashqadeeyaha moodada uusan lacag u lahayn jirsashada. Laakiin kuwa wax ku dhiska ah ayaa la dhajiyay: Khadka cusub ee dharka oo leh ruuxa waqtiga loo yaqaan 'silhouettes' ee sacab ee Francoisa Sagan iyo Baroness de Rothschildsellchilds.
Sanadkii 1965, Yesves Saint-Laurent ayaa adduunka u soo bandhigay aruurinta kacaanka "Mondrian", isagoo ku dhawaaqay inuu ku daalay beero afyariyaal milyan oo ah. A-silhouettes of Dhaxdo oo leh sawirrada joomatari ee farshaxanka reer Nederland Pista Pusion waxay la yaaban tahay adduunka moodada. Ururinta, naqshadeeyuhu wuxuu adeegsaday howsha casriga ah ee Kazmer Malievich iyo Serzh Polyakova. Dharka arrinta shahaadada - ma daabacdo, laakiin gogo 'midab leh oo dhar ah. Fikradda waxaa laga soo qaatay asxaabtii Saint-Laurean, taasoo sameysay fasiraaddooda, laakiin asalka u ah fikradda Fikradda ayaa isdhex taagaysay Yes Saint-Laurent.
Sanadkii 1966, YSL ayaa u dabaaldegtay furitaanka dukaankii ugu horreeyay ee lagu iibiyo dhar-deke ah, oo ku yaal cinwaanka uu ka soo muuqday magaca (bidix bankiga, halkaas oo VolnoDumumTy, ardayda ay degeen). Magaca waxaa la soo saaray isbedelada kacaanka in Yves Saint Laurent Laurent oo lagu soo rogay warshadaha moodada: Haweenka Coutrier oo ku labisan ku habboon galmada ragga iyo xarrago leh.
Sanad ka dib, "tuxedo" ayaa dhacay, kuwaas oo yorves Saint-Laurent "oo dhammeeyay" haraaga loo yaqaan fadeedka aayadda. Warqadaha dumarka ee labiska dumarka ayaa soo muuqday waxyaalaha "Ragga" - Tuxedo, dharka lagu dhasho, jaakadaha qaabka "Safari", gaajada guud iyo jaakadaha kor u qaadista. Laakiin moodalladaas, amaahda "geesinimada" silhoutettes, ma aysan kazeynin haweenka galmada.
Ururinta "Mabressson" oo ah 1971 waxay noqotay kuwa kicinta ugu badan, oo ku dhegan madaxa qoraaga dhaleeceynta Flurery. Khadka dacwadda ku habboon matra, pitasso coasioma ayaa waxyi. Dhadhanka khiyaanada leh oo aan ka baqanaynin tijaabooyin, haweeney ayaa iibsatay munaasabad ka mid ah 40-ka suuqa suuqa ah, oo ku dhuftay Iva Eva Saint. Dhaqanka, haweenka waxaa lagu daabacay dhar u eg dagaalkii adduunka ee adduunka.
Mathol kale oo aan u waxyooday Saint Laurent aruurinta aruurinta "waxay ahayd ostapifier caan ah iyo popifier ostolev Marlene Diintrich. Markii ugu da'da weyn waxay ahayd mid aad u xanaaqsan: waxay xasuusteen sanadaha Nazi. Calaamadaha madow, kabaha madal iyo qurxiyo qurxiyo dhaleeceyn ah oo dhalleeceeya isbarbardhiga dumarka dabeecadaha fudud ee ka soo kaynta belogenre kaynta. Laakiin markii la wareejiyey Shkwal, dhaleeceyn lama filaan ah ayaa u soo baxday guuritaanka dharka "ragga" ee haweenka ee ka imanaya YSL: Yes Saint-Laurent ayaa saadaaliyay isbeddelada, iyagoo ka horreeya laba tallaabo.
Tifaftiraha daabacaadda Fanka ee Diana Vrilelyland ayaa sheegay in kuturier "uu yahay hab sixir gaar ah oo haween ah," iyo naoste, oo faashad da 'kasta ha ahaado ayaa ka dambaysa. Sannadkii 1976, Yesves Saint-Laurent ayaa soo bandhigay baraha iyo aruurinta opera oo harraad ah oo ay ku harraad u yihiin shey cusub, oo uu lahaa masrax oo Ruush ah, Ballet Sergei Dyagilev iyo ujeedooyinka qaranka. Podium-ka wuxuu ku dhibay qurxinta ku yaal Maskaxda "Produl" dharka labiska oo leh xishood iyo tolo dahab ah.
1990-kii waxaa lagu calaamadeeyay aruurinta aruurinta, kaas oo Madda Madre, oo xayeysiiya daryeel deg deg ah, oo u hogaansameysa dadkiisa uu jecel yahay - jilayaasha, qoob-ka-ciyaarka, farshaxanada. Waxaan dhihi lahaa zes Saint-Laurent oo leh taageerayaasha iyo nabadda moodada bisha Janaayo 2002. Bandhigga arbaarihii ugu dambeeyay ayaa lagu qabtay bartamaha George Pompidou. Farxiya maestro, 40 sano jir ayaa ku soo biiray oo ka qeexaya fashion, waxay noqotay dhacdo qaran.
COSMETETICS IYO CADAADADA - Cutub kale oo ku saabsan hal-abuurka ifaya ee Saint-Laurent. Sanadkii 1971, xiddigta warshadaha dunida ayaa soo bandhigay caraf udgoon "opium". Xayeysiinta ayaa u roon inay u ekaato sidii udgoonku laftiisa oo kale, waayo, soo bandhigida jinniyada, Iv Cint-laurent ayaa la kashifay. Mustaqbalka, musqusha iyo biyaha cadarku "opium" lagu xayeysiiyay Linda wacdiye, Rupert Everett iyo goobta casriga ah ee Couturier qaawan Sophie.
Nolol shaqsiyeed
Pierre Berez wuxuu ahaa saaxiib, wehel iyo lover Iva Saint-Laurent. Bartamihii 1970-yadii, sheekada ayaa dhamaaday, laakiin saaxiibtinimada iyo iskaashiga ganacsiga ayaa weli ah. Waxyar ka hor dhimashadii Matra, lammaanaha ayaa soo gabagabeeyey guurka madaniga ah.
Yes Saint-Laurent ayaa jacayl la galay lammaanaha Karl Lagerfeld ee Jacques de Bashker. Ninkii yaraa ayaa ka dhacay qoysaska wax bartay, waxaa lagu kala soocay muuqaal soo jiidasho leh iyo jacayl loogu talagalay xafladaha cilmaani. Jacques qiyaastii 12 sano jir ayaa ka koobnaa xiriir lala yeelanayo Lagerfeld, laakiin ka dib wuxuu aaday Cinthefeld, laakiin wuxuu aaday Ciniel-Laurean. 6 sano kadib, Jacques de Bald wuxuu ku dhintaa cudurka AIDS.
Tilmaanta aan caadiga ahayn ee Iva Laurean kama uusan noqon caqabad ku ah jacaylka haweenka: oo lagu amaahayo dharka ragga iyo miraha, qaabka unsex ma uusan dooneynin inuu naag ka noqdo nin. JABRETS iyo JABETE MARKA MARKA CUSUB LAENTE "ee ku neefsashada" galmada "galmada, jaakadaha iyo dharka suufka ah waa mid la yaab leh dhedig ah oo ay ku nuuxnuuxsatay foomamka.
Haweenka Iva ee Iva Saint-Lauren, waxaa lagu magacaabaa Catherine Renso, Pinequins, Verashka (Vera Vonorf) iyo Lulu de La safz.
Dhimashada
Lixdii sano ee ugu dambeysay nolosha Maestro ee ku taal guriga '' MARTRAMINIC 'ee Marrakish. Yes Saint-Laurent ayaa ka baxay arrimaha dabayaaqadii 1980-yadii sababtoo ah dhibaatooyinka caafimaad dartiis: Coutrier oo lagu xadgudbay aalkolada iyo daroogada, ayaa lagu celceliyay. Sanadkii 1992, Bor ayaa ku dhawaaqay bixitaanka IvA Saint-Laurent iyo "dhamaadka qaabkii ugu dambeeyay", laakiin bixitaankii ugu dambeeyay ee arrimaha ay dhacday ayaa dhacay 10 sano ka dib. Dhibaatooyinka dhaqaale ayaa ku dhacay guriga YSL. Coutririer ayaa dhintey fiidnimadii axada bilowgii xagaagii 2008 ee Paris, oo arkay korkiisa oo hoos u dhacaya. Sababta dhimashada ee IVA Saint-Laurent ayaa ahayd buro maskaxeed.Farxiya sharci xirada u ah fadeedka adduunka ayaa ka dhacay kaniisadda Paris ee Saint-Roche. Prahi Wyva Saint-Laurent ayaa ka go'ay beerta uu ugu jecel yahay Villa "ee Suuqa" ee Marralash, halkaas oo uu ku jeclaado inuu ku fadhiisto fiidkii ee shirkadda Bulldog Man III (isla naaneysyadaas oo la mid ah la helay PSA). Laba filim ayaa laga saaray shaqada "Fashionka 'Faska Classic':" Yes Saint-Laurent "Jalil Leesprié iyo" Saint-Laurent. Qaabka - Waxaan ahay "Belrão Bonello. Labada sawirradu waxay soo baxeen 2014.
Xaaladda Gobolka ee maanta
Sanadkii 1999, Yesves Saint-Laurent ayaa helay guriga faccion ee faccia, oo lagu aaminay inuu horumariyo ururinta Ford. Coutrier wuxuu ka shaqeeyey abuuritaanka xariijin cusub illaa 2004, ka dib markii uu daryeelkiisu ahaa, Relay, Relay ayaa loo gudbiyay Stefano Pinati. Laga soo bilaabo 2011 ilaa 2013, agaasimaha fulinta ee ka mid ah House House Yes Saint Laurent Laurent Paris ayaa noqday Belgian. Intii lagu gudajiray hogaanka xilliga qaboobaha ee agaasimaha hal abuurka ee 2012, Edie Sluma ayaa loo magacaabay agaasime hal abuur leh. Xagaagii isla sanadkaas, Svanima ayaa loo magacaabay khadka tooska ah ee Saint Laurent Paris.
Sanadkii 2012, YSL-ka-foosha ayaa cadar u abuuray cadar ku abuurtay noocyada geesinimo iyo xoreeyay. The Connoisseurs-ka ayaa loogu yeeray cadarkii "Manifesto Dheddig": Waxay "furan yihiin" qoraalo "qoraalo cagaaran," qalbigooda "symphones-ka ubaxa, oo ay ku dhameystaan alwaax" chords ".
Sanadka 2016, Sliemanna wuxuu beddelay naqshadeeyaha himilada Anthothorsorlo. Sanadka 2017, Vakcquello wuxuu isku daraysay bandhigyada haweenka iyo ragga uruurinta xilliga dayrta-Jiilaalka. Ururinta cusub, nashqadeeyuhu wuxuu soo bandhigayay goonno yar oo aan gaagaaban, surwaal ka soo qaad vinyl, corsets iyo mar haddiiba ay amaahday yorvine-laret-ka oo ay ku jiraan shil-dheer. Vakccarlo ayaa cagaaran u rogi doonta Garmoshowga. Guryo cusub oo moodada ah ayaa laga iibsan karaa websaydhka rasmiga ah. Qiimaha moodallada dharka, bacaha iyo kabaha ayaa is beddelaya "loo tarjumay" dimoqraadiyadda.
Xigasho
- "Sanadihii la soo dhaafay waxaan gartay in waxa ugu muhiimsan ee dharka uu yahay haweeney soo saarto."
- "Noloshaas waxaan ka qoomameynayaa hal shay oo keliya - in jiinis uusan iman."
- "Dharku waa inuu ahaadaa mid hoosaad u ah shakhsiyadda haweeneyda, oo aan ka soo horjeedo."
- "Jacaylku waa qurxinta ugu fiican. Laakiin way u fududahay in loo qurxiyo waxyaabaha la isku qurxiyo. "
- "Dharkaygu waxaa loogu talagalay haweenka awooda inay ka safraan afartan boog."
- "Hal" hal "qurux" oo ku saabsan raadiyaha ayaa ku dhawaaqay in aan dhinto. Balanqaadyada suxufiyiintu way ii carareen. Waxay ahayd lagama maarmaan in la yiraahdo tani waa been: Waa imid kuwa nool oo ku dhawaad caafimaad badan. Laakiin sabab uun maahan inay i rumaystaan, in kastoo ay igu arkaan indhahooda. "
- "Dharka ugu wanaagsan ee naagtu tahay nin jecel. Laakiin kuwa laga xayuubiyey farxaddan oo kale, waxaa jira aniga. "
- "Kaararka moodada, qaabka waa weligiis."