Biography
Couturier IVA Henri Don Mattiere Saint-Laurent, anozivikanwa nesu Servernti indasitiri yeFashoni, muchinda mudiki wemafashoni uye asingaperi classic. Nicolas Sarknozy akaona kuti Saint Laurent ndiyo yekutanga pakati pevanoshanda navo yakasimudza mafashoni kune iyo mwero wehunyanzvi.
Shamwari uye pamwe chete naPierre Berez - Pierre Berez - akapfupikiswa pasi pekugadzira biography yeIna Saint-Lauren's Channic yezana ramakumi maviri, uye nehafu yechipiri - Saint-LASN. Akapa vanhu kumhando yekusagadzikana, vakadzi vakapfeka tuxedo, bhutsu dzakakwirira, bhuruu dzakawanda uye zvipfeko zvinopfekedza. Uye wekutanga akakokwa ku podium yezvivakwa ane ganda rerima.
Hudu uye Vechidiki
Ramangwana "righite" rezvipfeko zvemafashoni vakazvarwa muAlgerian oran muzhizha ra1936. Baba vaBaba vaishanda neinishuwarenzi mumiririri, uye Amai vakava veIVA yekutanga museum iyo yakafemera kusikwa kwemapfekero ekupfeka. Manheru ake achibuda mwana uye vanasikana vaviri vakamirira mharidzo yemitambo. Dhirowa madonhwe ehembe dzepfeko yves Saint-Laurent yakatanga pamakore masere, uye mu11 akatakurwa nedanho remitambo. Hongu, zvekuti yakavakira nguva pfupi pfupi iyo imba, yakapfekedza zvigadziko mumatanda akapfeka zvakazara kubva pakapetwa.
Mumba pakanga pasina kutya kwekurera, "zviitiko" Iva vakaona amai vachitarisa, hanzvadzi nehama nehama. Kufungidzira kusinganzwisisike paKutrier Kuturier kwakaburitsa kutamba kweiyo Great Louis Khuve "Chikoro chevakadzi", Scenery uye masutu emubatanidzwa wechiFrench Berar yakagadzirwa.
Gare gare, Mutsvene-Laurent akabvuma izvozvo, achiona zvipfeko zvevatambi vemitambo kubva kuBerar, vakaziva kuti chinhu chikuru musutu chaive mweya, uye mukadzi ane chipfeko. MuAlgeria Yves Saint-Laurent akapedza kudzidza kubva kukoreji uye lyceum, kugadzira kutarisa pane zvidzidzo zvavanofarira - French neLatin. Vanyori vanoremedza nyika ivirati view, inonzi Andre Zhida uye Marsanele Kuparadzira, yakaita matisse kubva kune varidzi.
Dhizaini uye fashoni
Pana 17, jaya rakasvika pa "guta guru remafashoni" uye vakasaina makosi ekudhirowa "kubva kuKutur". Kubudirira kwekutanga kwakauya mugore rimwe chete: Iyo dema cocktail dress, iyo sketch yeiyo yakagadzirirwa Yves Saint-Laurent, yakatora nzvimbo yekutanga mumakwikwi. Makore maviri gare gare, muna 1955, jaya rine makore 19 rakatora mubatsiri kune vashandi vechiKristu Diora. Muna 1957, musoro weimba yeFashoni akafa. Kwemakore maviri ekubatana, Dior akaona tarenda rechidiki, saka varidzi vechiratidzo vakaita kubheja paIVA Saint-Laurean, vachipora Couturier's Coluturier nzvimbo yemutungamiriri we art.
Pakutanga kwa 1958, Mugadziri akapa muunganidzwa weDombo paruvanze kuDare, iro IVA Saint-Laurean Russian Sunary. Hapana munhu aitarisira kuti yakadaro furor: kubva kuIVA yakanga yakamirira kuenderera mberi kwetsika ye diora - lush yakarongedzwa silhouettes. Uye Newcomer yakapa hanyanisi chitsva chitsva - a-silhouette. Pfupi trapezoidal zvipfeko, yakatemwa kubva pamachira anoyerera uye silika, "akamirira" muviri wechikadzi uye hauna kuita chiuno pachiuno. Zuva rakatevera racho, mushure mokuratidzwa kweTabis's Tabloids, vakanyora kuti Yves Saint-Laurent naSaranfans vake "vakachengetedza France."
Muzhizha ra1959, mugadziri akaenda kuMoscow ari mukambani yemamanje gumi nemaviri, achiva piyona weIndia yeFrance muSoviet Union. Gore rakatevera, Metra vadiki vakadana basa reuto ndokutumirwa ku Africa. Muedzo wemutakuri wemauto anotakurisa Saint-Laurent akatadza kumira: Mushure memazuva makumi maviri akaderedza mushure mekuparadzwa kwekutya uye nekuparadzwa. Jaya racho rakabatwa nekuvhunduka kwemagetsi uye "kugadzirira" kurapa "kwaakarasikirwa nemakirogiramu makumi matatu nemashanu.
Kudzokera kuimba yemafashoni, yves Saint-Laurent yakauya neye mitsva yemuchina-zhizha muunganidzwa "Hipster", iyo yaakauya muma1960s. Makwenzi akaunganidzwa emudhudhudhu akagadzirwa neganda rematehwe uye mink majasi ane mapepa akakomberedzwa anotya vanochengetedza mari yekuchengetedza kumba kumba: Iyo muunganidzwa waiita sekuti anokwana-garde uye akasvinura. Saint-Laurean akadzingwa, kutsiva couturier yekunyanyisa kuti ive inofungidzirwa kuti Maka Baran. Tsigira shamwari yakadzingwa yeDhizaini Pierre Berge. Akabatsira kutsungirira nekurova uye kubuda muhwina: Yves Saint-Laurent akakunda mari yekubhadhara kwechibvumirano zvisiri pamutemo.
Fashoni imba ysl.
Kutsvaga Investor Nyowani - American Entrepreneur Mako Robinson - Yves Saint-Laurent uye Pierre Berez akawana yavo yeFashoni imba neiyo YSL logo. Asati mharidzo yekuunganidza pakupera kwaJanuary 1962, vaParisians vakajekeswa nezvekutadza kuri kuuya, vachitenda kuti mafashoni aive asina mari yekubatikana. Asi madekadzi akatumirwa: Mutsetse mutsva wezvipfeko nemweya wenguva neiyo silhouettes yekupururudza kweFrancoisa Sagan naBaroness de Rothschild.
Muna 1965, yves Saint-Laurent akapa nyika kuunganidzwa kwekuchinja "mondrian", kuzivisa kuti akange aneta nekudyara mikana yemamiriyoni emamiriyoni. A-silhouettes yechipfeko che geometric dhizaini yeiyo Netherlands Artist Pita Mondrik yakashamisika nyika yemafashoni. Muunganidzwa, mugadziri akashandisa basa razvino reKazmeir Malevich uye Serzh Polyakava. Nhamba yekuunganidza mapfekero - kwete kudhinda, asi yakakwenenzverwa zvidimbu zvemavara. Pfungwa yacho yakatorwa nevanoshanda navo Saint-Laurean, vachiita kududzirwa kwavo, asi mavambo enguva yakamira mire saint-laurent.
Muna 1966, YSL akapemberera kuvhurwa kwekutanga Boutique Store neCoste-A-Chivako Zvipfeko, kuruboshwe rweSeine, uko Kuruboshwe, Vadzidzi uye Vadzidzi uye Revolution Vachinjiki vakagadziriswa). Iro zita racho rakanzi neicho shanduko yekuchinja iyo YVes SAint Laurent yakaunzwa muindasitiri yemafashoni: Vakadzi Couturier vakapfeka masutu evarume vakatarisa vanoita zvepabonde.
Kwapera gore, iyo "tuxedo" kuunganidzwa "kwakaitika, iyo Yves Saint-Laurent" yapera "zvasara zvePatriarchal Fashoni. MuWard Wardrobe yakaonekwa "varume" varume "- tuxedo, trouser zvipfeko, majasi ari muchimiro che" safari ", mafashoni uye jekets. Asi aya marudzi, anokwereta "akashinga" silhouettes, haana kunyima vakadzi vebonde.
Unganidzo "racho raibhurari" ra1971 rakanyanya kunaka, richinamatira kuMusoro weMunyori Kushoropodzwa Kunodonha. Pamutsetse weSuits Matra, Pickasso Paloma akafuridzirwa. Nekuravira kwakavanzika uye kusatya kuedza, mukadzi akatenga sutu yemakumi mana emusika wemusika, akarova Iva saint-laintent. Pane zvakasvibiswa, vakadzi vakabudiswa muzvipfeko zvakarongedzwa neHondo Yenyika II.
Imwe museum iyo ini ndakafemedzai saint Laurent pane kuunganidza "Ribhi libros" yaive inozivikanwa provocateur uye porifier ostolev marlene dietrich. Vakura kwazvo vakatsamwa: Vakarangarira makore ebasa reNazi. Black Tights, SHETFORCO shangu uye yakajeka makeruku akafuridzirwa maFashoni ekutsoropodza fananidzo yeavo nevakadzi vane maitiro epasirese kubva kune boulogne sango. Asi pane shift shkwal, kutsoropodzwa zvisingatarisirwi kwakauya kune boom kune ve "varume" ve "varume" kubva kuYSL: YVes Saint-Laurent zvakare yakafanotaura maitiro, kuve matanho maviri ari pamberi.
Mupepeti weChifashoni edition Diana Vrillyland akadaro Kuturier "ane nzira yakakosha yevakadzi," uye chero mafashoni, iyo fashoni yemazera ese ichaenda shure kwake. Muna 1976, Yves Saint-Laurent yakaunza mbopa yeRussia neyakaunganidzwa nenyota yezvinhu zvitsva, izvo zvaakange aine mutoro weRussia, ballet sergei Dyagleev uye nyika dzinonyanya. Podium yakasvibiswa runako muMotley "murombo" zvipfeko zvine ebroidery uye endarama sew.
1990 yakanyorwa neyakaunganidzwa muunganidzwa wemutero, iyo madre, inotarisira kukurumidza kutarisirwa, yakazvipira kuvanhu vake vavanoda - vatambi, vatambi, maartist. Ini ndingati nyore yves saint-laaurent nevate uye rugare rwefashoni muna Ndira 2002. Iyo show yekuratidzira kwekupedzisira yakaitwa pakati peGeorge Pompidou. Farewell kuna Maestro, makore makumi mana akabatana uye achinongedza iyo fashoni, yakava chiitiko chenyika.
Cosmetics uye perfume - chimwe chitsauko cheKusika kwakajeka kweSell-Laurent. Muna 1971, nyeredzi yeiyo World Fashine indasitiri yakaunza kunhuhwirira kwechirume "Opium". Kushambadzira kwakazoitika sekutsamwisa senhuhwirira pacharo: nekuti mharidzo yemidzimu, iv Saint-Laurent yakafumurwa. Mune ramangwana, kuchimbuzi kwemvura zvine mutsindo "Opium" Opium "yakashambadzirwa Linda evhangeri, Rupert Everett uye nzvimbo yakasarudzika yemukana asina kupfeka Sophie.
Hupenyu Hwako
Pierre Berez aive shamwari, shamwari uye anoda IVA saint-Laurent. Pakati ma1970s, nolve yapera, asi kushamwaridzana uye kubatana bhizinesi kwakaramba kwakaramba. Nguva pfupi kufa kwaMatra, vaviri ava vakapedza muchato wehurumende.
Yves Saint-Laurent yaive murudo neKarl Lagerfeld's Waunder Jacques de Bashker. Jaya racho rakaitika kumhuri dzakadzidziswa, rakanzwika nechitarisiko chakanaka uye kuda kwemapato epasirese. Jacques anenge makore gumi nemaviri aive nehukama neLagerfeld, asi akabva aenda kuSaul-Laurean. Mushure memakore matanhatu, Jacques de Basher anofa nekuda kweAIDS.
Hurumbo hweTovental weITA SAint-Laurean haina kuve chipinganidzo kuda vakadzi: kukwereta zvipfeko zvevarume uye michero, maitiro asina kujairika aisada kudzorera mukadzi mumurume. Bhuruu uye maJakeji eganda kubva kuSaint Laurent "Fema" nehupombwe, majaketi uye Sufari zvipfeko zvinoshamisa zvechikadzi uye zvinosimbisa mafomu.
Vakadzi I vaint-Lauren inonzi Catherine Deev, pickasso procso, Mannequins, verushka (vera von lendorf) uye lulu de la Falez.
Rufu
Makore matanhatu apfuura ehupenyu hwaMaestro akapedzerwa mune iyo Ultramarinic Machengo muMarrakesh. Yves Saint-Laurent akabva kubva kune zviitiko mukupera kwe1980s nekuda kwezvinetso zvehutano: Couturier akashandisa doro nemishonga, akarongwa. Muna 1992, Berge vakazivisa kuti ITA SAint-LARENT uye "KUPEDZISIRA KWEMAKADZISI", asi kwekupedzisira kubva panguva yakaitika mushure memakore gumi. Matambudziko emari akawira pamba yeYSL. Couturier akafa Svondo manheru pakutanga kwezhizha ra2008 muParis, uyo akaona zvake kumusoro uye kudonha. Chikonzero chekufa kweIVA Saint-Laurent yaive muuropi bundu.Farewell kune muridzi wegashama wepasi rose zvakaitika muCharis Church of Saint-Roche. Prahi Wyva Saint-Laurent akadzingwa pamusoro pebindu raanofarira kuBinder paMarrakesh, kwaaida kuti agare muNictioG ari muNickyn Pamsname murume iii (iwo matikisi akafanana akagamuchira maviri apfuura PSA). Mafirimu maviri akabviswa pamusoro pebasa re "kusingaperi classic fashoni": "YVes Saint-Laurent" Jalil Lespré uye "Saint-LART-LARENT. Chimiro - ndiri "berrão bonello. Paintings mbiri dzakabuda muna 2014.
Mamiriro ezvinhu nhasi
Muna 1999, Yves Saint-Laurent akawana iyo yeItaly Fashoni House Gucci, yakapihwa kuti uwedzere kuunganidzwa kweform. Couturier akashanda pakusikwa kwemutsara mutsva kusvika 2004, mushure mekutarisirwa kwayo, kudzokerana kwacho kwakapfuudzwa kuStefano Pilati. Kubva muna 2011 kusvika 2013 kusvika 2013, mukuru wedare reFashoni Imba Yves Saint Laurent Paris yakava Belgian. Munguva yehutungamiri hwake munguva yechando yemutungamiriri weChipiyaro cheMavambo 2012, Edie Sluman akagadzwa director wekugadzira. Muzhizha regore rimwe chetero, Svanima akatumidza zita racho muSanta Laurent Paris.
Muna 2012, YSL perfarumers akagadzira mafuta anonhuwirira kuti ave mundoka uye akasunungurwa. Vabati vanonzi mafuta "mavanoridzira femininity": Ivo "vanovhura" manyoro egirini, mune yavo "moyo" ruva reruva, rinopedzwa nehuni "chords".
Muna 2016, Sliomanna yakachinja iyo dhizaini anthony vaccarello. Muna 2017, vakcquello vakabatanidzwa pamwe chete nemaratidziro emukadzi uye mahonyera emwaka wechando-nguva yechando. Muunganidzwa mutsva, mugadziri akaunza masaga emhete, madhiri anobva kuVinyl, Corsets uye akambokweretesa neYPs Saint-Laurent bhutsu neyese. Vakccarrearlo inozoshandura girini kune iyo Garmoshka. Dzimba nyowani dzeFashoni dzinogona kutengwa pane webhusaiti yepamutemo. Mitengo yemhando dzezvipfeko, mabhegi uye shangu dzinoshandurwa kubva ku "rakashandurwa" kuDemocratic.
Quotes
- "Kwemakore apfuura ndakaziva kuti chinhu chakakosha kwazvo mumupfekeri mukadzi anomuisa pamusoro."
- "Muhupenyu huno ndinodemba chinhu chimwe chete - kuti Jeans haana kuuya neni."
- "Nguo dzinofanira kunge dziri pasi pauunhu hwemukadzi, uye kwete hwakapesana."
- "Rudo ndirwo rwezvinyakare. Asi zviri nyore kune cosmetics. "
- "Mapfekero angu akagadzirirwa vakadzi vanogona kuwana kubva pamasutu emakumi mana."
- "Mune rimwe" rakanaka "radio radio rakazivisa kuti ini ndakafa. Makoroni evatapi venhau akamhanyira kwandiri. Zvaive zvakafanira kutaura kuti iyi inhema dzese: Pano ndiri mupenyu uye ndakapotsa hutano. Asi nekuda kwechimwe chikonzero ivo vaisada kunditenda zvachose, kunyange vakandiona nemeso avo. "
- "Zvipfeko zvakanakisa zvemukadzi kumbundikira kwemurume ane rudo. Asi kune avo vanonyimwa mufaro wakadai, ndiripo. "
- "Mafashoni anopfuura, maitiro ndeanokudzwa."