Yucer de HupenyuTo - Photo, Biography, Hupenyu Hwako, Chikonzero Chorufu, Fashoni

Anonim

Biography

Nhaka yaTenzi weJubera de Hopothi for high for high fashoni haisi kungova yakakura, inokosha uye yakasarudzika. Yakava sampuli yekusaravira isina kugadzikana uye kunatsiridza, iyo yakakwanisa kuunza chete aristocrat echokwadi uye gurukota rekusuwa rehunyanzvi. Mugadziri wefashoni akararama hupenyu hwakareba, achienda kuseri kweiyo nzvimbo yefashoni yakazomudaidza zita, pamwe nezvinhu zvechitendero uye mhinduro dzichiri kurarama dzinovandudzwa kwevakuru vadiki uye ndapota fashoni pasi rese.

Hudu uye Vechidiki

Yumber James Mararseille Taffen de Zhani akaberekwa muna Kukadzi 21, 1927 muBeauvais, France. Vabereki vemugadziri wenguva yemberi vakaroora murudo rukuru, mhuri yavo yakava muenzaniso unowirirana pakubatanidza aristocracy uye kirasi yakapfuma.

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Baba Lucien Taffen de Zhani - Chidzi cheVenetia Venchitects, mwanakomana waMarquis. Munguva yehondo yenyika yekutanga, mutyairi wacho akadzidziswa, akarwa kumberi uye hupenyu hwake hwese hupfupi hwaive hwakaiswa kune iri rerudo basa.

Mama Beatris Baden - Mwanasikana weFrench Artist Jules Boten, aivawo entreprenreneur, akaronga bhizinesi rekugadzirwa kwe tapestries. Sekuru Beatrice vakakurumbira panguva yekupanduka Perre Pierre Adolf Bien.

Beatrice naLucien vakava vabereki vevanakomana vaviri; mukuru anonzi Jean-Claude, mudiki - Mudiki. Baba de Zhivivusha havana kurangarira, akafa apo zuva rave nemakore maviri. Maererano nerimwe vhezheni, iyo yakafa kana ichiita basa rekutiza, kubva kune imwe, kubva kudenderedzwa furu yeSpanish yerefu, kumhanyisa panguva muEurope.

Kurera vanakomana vaFeatriice vakabatsira Amai Lucien - Margherit. Ambuya vevakatanga kuunza zvishoma nezvishoma vaine basa retsamba, vakatendera guva rekutamba nemurazvo wemucheka, wakachengeta bhenji rekusona.

Muna 1937, Beatrice aive nerombo rakanaka nevanakomana pamurambiringa weunyanzvi hwehunyanzvi uye hunyanzvi muParis. Heano zvido zvevakomana zvakakamurwa: Jean-claude akadzima samapu matsva emifananidzo, uye yumbers haina kukwanisa kubuda kubva kuzvisikwa zvevakangoita cuturiers - madzinza akanatswa aive munzvimbo yeiyo elegance.

Pfungwa yekuti aigona zvakare kugadzira runako rwakadai, akagara pasi mumusoro wemukomana. Akatanga kudhirowa, achishandisa mitsetse nyasha. Panguva imwecheteyo, fungidziro yake isingarambidzike, Yuber yakaumba masitaera aine mazano ake, achirota achibata silika inoyerera uye lace yakanaka kwazvo.

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Nekudaro, zviroto izvi zvakapindira zvinotyisa, zvinotyisa, zvisina tariro yezvokwadi yehondo. Makore emhuri yechipiri yenyika yeZhavani akasangana neyakaoma: Ambuya afa, amai vakatorwa chero basa dema, uye vanakomana vaigona kubatsira mukadzi. Iko kurota kwakabatsira muchengetiwa hakuna kutyora uye kukwira. Uye muna 1945, Parissi paakangove neupenyu hune rugare, akaendako nechinangwa chekuva mudzidzi wemugadziri wefashoni.

Panguva iyoyo mhuri yakapandukira. "Aristocrat yeNoine kuti ishande" - ichi chaive chivimbiso chevadiwa vakaona mukomana negweta rakabudirira. Pasi pekumanikidzwa kwavo, jaya racho rakapinda muchikoro chenyika yehunyanzvi hwakanaka, uye mukufananidza nekudzidza kwakatanga kunzwisisa izvo zvekutanga zvehunyanzvi.

Fashoni

Muchikuru hwehudiki, Yuber aive mudzidzi wezvakadai matrov sezvakaita maJacques mafuta, Robert Peig, Lucen Lulong. Zvinokosha kunakidzwa uye neruremekedzo rwaDhishushi zvakasangana nazvo, vachishanda neiyo Great Skipararelli, uyo achiri panguva yehuduku akava chifananidzo chake. Muna 1947-1951, vadiki aristocrat vaive mudzidzi wemuenzaniso wemufashoni uye mukuru wekwaakarongedzwa Boutique.

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De Zivishi Anosiya ngano muna 1952 pamwe chete neruzivo uye rwakatungamirwa uye rwakareba-hwaro hwemafashoni imba inopihwa, ichiva wechidiki wemubatanidzwa weparishi. Mhuri inobatsira mune izvi, kutenda mutarenda regamu uye kusendamira guta guru remhuri. Nekudaro, pakange paine mari shoma, saka, yekutanga kuratidzwa, mugadziri akasarudza machira asingadhuri uye nemaitiro, achigadzira kubheja pane zvekutanga zveCroy naLeson.

Uye haana kurasa: Raisin yeunganidzwa yaive Bethtin blouse, iyo Di Zhania Mukuremekedza Musana wake wekutanga Bettina Graziani - Musikana uyu aive ari miviri yemhando, uye mubatsiri weCouturier. Muenzaniso weBlouse neRarming Ruffles, akarohwa nemirairo uye akapa mugadziri wefashoni nevatengi vekutanga, vazhinji vavo vakabuda vakasara maWizant maitiro.

Muna 1953, vazivikanwe vaviri vekupedzisira vanoitika muzvinyorwa zveJuber de Zhani. Yekutanga iri naamai Cristobal Balenciagoy. Mugadziri weSpanish weSpanish weSpanish kwemakore mazhinji ave mubatanidzwa uye muperekedzi wemunhu wechiFrench, akamudzidzisa kuti ashande nemufananidzo uye achifunga kusvika kuzvifananidzo zvishoma mafashoni. Chikoro Balenciaga chave chiitiko chinoshamisa uye chitoro chehunyanzvi zvakavanzika, izvo zvaakashandisa mubasa rekugadzira.

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Shamwari yechipiri yemushandisi akaonekwa panguva ino yaive mutambi airrey hepburur. Uye kunyangwe musangano wavo wekutanga wanga uchiodza mwoyo (De Zihomishi, vasingazive zita remushanyi, vaitarisirwa kuona Oskarorone Catherine Hepburn), tenzi akatakura ndangariro dzezuva rino mushure mehupenyu hwake hwese.

"Aivawo zvinoshamisa. Nyoro mumufungo wake uye tsika dzakajeka dzakandiparadza kubva panguva yekutanga, "akanyora muMumoirs.

Audrey nekukurumidza zvinodiwa zvipfeko zvefirimu "Sabrina", mairi airamba zvikuru. Pakanga pasina nguva yekusaswa nguva, uye de Zhivavusha yakapa zano mutambi kuti asarudze mhando kuravira kwavo. Saka vakasarudzwa pamusoro pematanho makumi maviri akagadzirira, kusanganisira chipfeko chakasarudzika, chakarukwa nechena nesirika, vachisarudza iyo huru yefirimu yemufirimu.

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Iyo firimu Billy Wilder, yakasarudzwa mumapoka akati wandei, vakatora iyo yakafarirwa chigunwe chete chemapipi. Nekudaro, iyo award yakafamba nechikepe kune muimbi mune zvipfeko Edith aive, akanyoreswa zviri pamutemo mune zvegumi zvefirimu. Uye saka ichave iri zita raDe Zhavani kuti vaisanganisire kune oscar budiriro, kana isiri hepburn. Volievive uye kusarudza, pasinei ake fragility zvose, kuti mutambi pachena akazivisa zita munyori outfits uye vakasimbirira yakabvumira kugadziriswa kwemutemo wekuita ari dzakati iri mhemberero. Uyezve zvakare pachezvake kukumbira ruregerero kumugadziri wefashoni.

Kubva pazuva iro, nhoroondo yeushamwari hunoshamisa hweCouturier uye Museum yake zvakatanga, izvo zvakaguma nejoini cinema. Kubva zvino pane zvipfeko zvese zveyeredzi inogadzira de Zhani. Zvipfeko zvake zvinozivikanwa zvinogona kuoneka mune pendi "zvinonakidza mrdashka" (1957), "kudya kwemangwanani kuTiffany" (1961), "Maitiro Ekuba Miriyoni" (1966).

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Saka, Audrey kwemakore mazhinji akava kumeso kweimba yemafashoni anopihwa, uye muna 1957, mukukudzwa kwake "kurira" uye chinetso chitsva kubva pamubhedha, nzira yakanaka kwazvo. Midzimu yokutanga yeL' Interdit ("inorambidzwa") yakaratidza kutanga kwekutanga kwegwara rese - Papmums anokwevera (iyo ngirozi uye ngirozi "," organza "," isingadzivisiki "). Nhasi unoburitsa mafuta chete uye nemvura yechimbuzi, asi zvakare kune hanya zvigadzirwa (magetsi, masks, macomputive cosmetist (poda, mimvuri, blush, etc.).

Zvadaro, muna 1957, chipfeko chinozivikanwa checoco chakagadzirwa (chipfeko safu). Izvo zvaive zvakasununguka nemaune uye zvakatetepa kusvika pasi, kuviga chiuno mutsetse, izvo zvakambotorwa chete kuti usimbise. Maitiro akadaro ekuchinja akadai zvaireva chinhu chimwe chete - inguva yekuita kuti nguo dzevakadzi vasinganakidzi chete, asi zvakare vakasununguka. NdiDe Zhani anova asina discovener of the maumbirwo "Pret-A-chiteshi" uye anopa kugadzirwa kukuru kweiyo yakagadzirirwa-yakagadzirirwa mipfeji emhando yepamusoro.

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Imwe hunyanzvi kubva kumugadziri wekusika akazoita masutu maviri-nguva-sutu jeketi + siketi. Ichi chipfeko chakabvumirisa kuti zvishandure, kupfeka nedzimwe zvinhu zvevarwi.

Pakupera kwe60s - kutanga 70s, de Zhivyushi anovhura nzira yemurume uye inofamba kubva kuParis kuenda kuNew York. Asi kubwinya kuri pamberi pezimbe ine tarenda, uye pano yambomira boka rose revatengi vanomufaro. Pakati pavo nenyeredzi dzeHollywood Elizabeth Taylor, nemari yekudya, pamwe nevakadzi vekutanga veHurumende - princess Monaco Nyasha uye Muroora weMutungamiri wenyika Johnindequeline.

Panguva ino, tenzi achiri kushandira pamwe neCinema: Mukutanga 70s, anogadzira zvipfeko zvezvidhinha mufirimu "kana Don Juan aive mukadzi" uye basa iri rinopedzisa "roman" nehunyanzvi hukuru.

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Muna 1988, Kuturier akatengesa imba yake yakabudirira yeFrance nemushandi wechiFrance Bernard Arno, uye akabatana naye kuna Huye Lvhm (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy). Panguva ino, imba yaive iri kukura-kubudirira chimiro, pakati pezvakagadzirwa zvayo zvaisangoita zvipfeko uye zvinonhuhwirira, asiwo shangu, mabhegi, zvinhu zvekushandisa.

Munguva yekutengeserana, yakataurwa kuti kwemakore manomwe, YUBER DHO HOPEHI icharamba iri yemutungamiriri wechiArm uye mugadziri mukuru weimba. Sekureva kwechibvumirano, madreman akasiya iyi post muna 1995, achizivisa kuti aisakwanisa kushanda nemushambadzi mumwechete. Mugadziri wefashoni akasimba zvakanyanya kufa kwemimhanzi yake mimhanzi awpburur muna1993.

Hupenyu Hwako

Pasinei nenyaya yekuti huwandu hwenguva hunonhuwirira hwakaitwa naDhevishi uye hepburns akaitiswa pamwe chete, pamwe neyenyoro hukuru hwevanhu vaviri vekusika pamberi pemakamera, hukama hwavo hwaive hushamwari nePlatonic. Couturier akasonera machira emichato miviri Audrey, uye akapfekawo nyaya dzakasimba dzevanakomana vake.Yakapera kubva paGetty Mifananidzo

Hupenyu hwevanhu wega hauna kushanda, haana kumboroora uye haana kutanga vana. Dzvanya yero, kuyedza kutsvaga izvo zvinokonzeresa hupenyu hwake bachelor, amufungira mune isiri-tsika yekutarisa, mugadziri wacho akatova muRoma naBarenciag. Nekudaro, kwete hapana kusimbiswa kwakapihwa.

Rufu

Mumakore achangopfuura, De Zhavani vaigara vari munharaunda inodiwa estate Le Coladate Le: Mifananidzo yakanyorwa, yakaunganidzwa bindu rinoshamisa, yakatorwa nemabatiro ekuronga maitiro ekuratidzira uye akaiswa mapurojekiti ekutanga. Muna 2007, semuenzaniso, ndakagadzira dhizaini yemasitampu ekutumira yakapihwa neZuva raValentine.

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Musi waKurume 10, 2018, nyika yese yakaziva nezvekufa kweanozivikanwa couturier. Akaenda chinyararire, muchiroto, pagore re99nd gore, richirarama museum yake isina kusimba kwemakore makumi maviri nemashanu. Mariro ematuta aive akaitwa mudenderedzwa rehama uye vadikani.

Ndangariro

Kwete rimwe bhuku: "Ratidza: 40 Ans de Creation" (1991), "Hubert De Chisiko:

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Muna Kurume 2016, iyo yekutanga yeRourm Film erika pelleretin "Hubert de anofanirwa: hupenyu mumufaro weHute" zvakaitika. Iye munyori akakwanisa kutora zvakawanda zvinonakidza chokwadi nezvehupenyu uye basa reMatra.

Imba yePefy inoenderera mberi nekurarama, uyo, mushure mekutarisirwa kwaDozhavov, vakananga nevanozivikanwa mafashoni John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Ricardo Tishi. Nhoroondo yakazara yeimba yakakurumbira inogona kuwanikwa pane webhusaiti yepamutemo.

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